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Old 09-30-2011, 7:21am   #1
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Default insulation in a furnace room..

Fire hazard or no?
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Old 09-30-2011, 7:34am   #2
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They make a fire-proof insulation. http://www.airkrete.com/

http://www.airkrete.com/trailer/Insi...ons/index.html
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Old 09-30-2011, 7:47am   #3
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Yep, and it works well.
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Old 09-30-2011, 8:05am   #4
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They sell it in rolls?
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Old 09-30-2011, 8:07am   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ...Whitepower... View Post
They sell it in rolls?
No, it's blown in, sort of. Its a foam that hardens.
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Old 09-30-2011, 8:15am   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NEVRL8T View Post
No, it's blown in, sort of. Its a foam that hardens.
I'd rather not do that with all the plumbing in there..

Guess I gotta do some homework.
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Old 09-30-2011, 8:24am   #7
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Even you have an oil or gas fired air handler/furnace...

insulating the walls/ceiling of the "furnace room" is OK. Matter of fact, I recommend it for both sound & efficiency.

If you are concerned about combustionables...drywall the walls over the insulation.
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Old 09-30-2011, 8:33am   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LarsAtTheBeach View Post
Even you have an oil or gas fired air handler/furnace...

insulating the walls/ceiling of the "furnace room" is OK. Matter of fact, I recommend it for both sound & efficiency.

If you are concerned about combustionables...drywall the walls over the insulation.
Its more for noise than anything else. I finished the basement on the flip and the furnace is louder than I thought it would be and can be heard in the bedroom we added down there. I was thinking insulation would be the easiest fix. I was just concerned about code and it being a fire hazard.
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Old 09-30-2011, 6:45pm   #9
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Usually, not a problem

Most modern furnaces need very little clearance.

How old of a unit is it?

Do you have a clothes dryer nearby?
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Old 09-30-2011, 6:57pm   #10
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Already insulated earlier today.
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Old 09-30-2011, 7:00pm   #11
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OK, question still stands, here is why.

The drier running all by itself may pull enough air out of that room to backdraft the water heater and furnace.

Leaving the door open may prevent that, but then you are pulling air out of the house.

Keep in mind that a drier that exhausts 150 CFM of air(very conservative), will cause 3/4 of an air change in a 1500 sq ft house, with 8" ceilings, all by itself for every hour it runs.

For every 1 CFM of air that is pulled out of the house, 1 CFM of outside air infiltrates into the house. The air that is pulled out of the house is conditioned air, the air that infiltrates in is unconditioned outdoor air, or worse, is coming from the attic, wall cavities, crawl space, etc..
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Old 09-30-2011, 7:07pm   #12
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That room is just the downstairs furnace and water heater.

Washer/Drier is in a closet on another floor.
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Old 09-30-2011, 8:30pm   #13
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I would search for Holmes on Homes. That earring having Canadian hoser knows some shit.
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Old 09-30-2011, 8:35pm   #14
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Here it's a minimum 3' clearance on new construction and you must use fire rated drywall.
Stuff the wall cavities with Roxul Safe and Sound(Fire resistant) and then drywall over top.

If the sound is coming more from the ceiling, wrap any ducts with sound and fire rated insulation and spray foam all holes around registers or pipes.

Also solid core wood doors work great for stopping sound especially when you add a weatherseal to the inside edge.
There are also sound rated doors that are filled with insulation but in my experience don't work as well.
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