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Old 12-12-2021, 7:59am   #21
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Has anyone suggested to turn the crank such that the cylinder #1 is at top dead center, then checking to see if the distributor is pointing at #1?
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Old 12-12-2021, 8:31am   #22
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It will run rough. I have made that mistake before...well...somebody else did who insisted he was right and don't argue with dad or friends or they takeyou off the "crimmus Card" list.
Me and a friend used to be into VWs for years. We ran across a few engines that yahoos had rebuilt themselves. The distributor would only go in one way, but when you split the case, it was possible to put the pinion in backwards such that when you put the distributor in, it was out 180 degrees. We could get them to run by reversing the plug wires, and could even time them OK, but it was a brain strainer because we had to think backwards.

The only way to properly fix it was to completely break down the engine again, so we sent some folks we knew down the road with backwards distributors.
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Old 12-12-2021, 8:50am   #23
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The distributor runs at half the RPM of the crank, so 180 deg on the dist is a full revolution of the crank. So the spark would be firing near the top of the exhaust stroke, rather than the compression stroke.
If you left the plug wires where they are supposed to go, this is exactly correct. The engine would not run at all because when the spark hit, the exhaust valve would be about to open.
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Old 12-12-2021, 9:03am   #24
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If you left the plug wires where they are supposed to go, this is exactly correct. The engine would not run at all because when the spark hit, the exhaust valve would be about to open.
That's what I thought, but started to second guess it because of the raggedy/crappy running this engine is doing.....guess I have to go buy a crappy 30 buck code reader or do the A-B jumper and see if it tosses codes that way....

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Old 12-12-2021, 9:05am   #25
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Has anyone suggested to turn the crank such that the cylinder #1 is at top dead center, then checking to see if the distributor is pointing at #1?



It jumped timing or rebuilt wrong.
Sheered distributor pin at gear.
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Old 12-12-2021, 11:00am   #26
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Has anyone suggested to turn the crank such that the cylinder #1 is at top dead center, then checking to see if the distributor is pointing at #1?
If what I think is going on, is actually what is going on, that won't work in and of itself. The distributor will be pointing at number 1 at the top of the exhaust stroke instead of the compression stroke. You would have to take the valve covers off, and watch the valves to make sure you were at the end of the compression stroke on number 1, then see where the distributor is pointing. My guess is it will be pointing at the 5th cylinder in the firing order, which for my engine would be cylinder #6.
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Old 12-12-2021, 11:24am   #27
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The machine shop did the short block assy.....so I ASSume the cam timing is korrect.......they guyz seem to no watt they are doin'......

SO.....IF I have that dizzy in 180 out.....my FAR OUT questin IS can the engine run at all......an old hot rodder mopar buddy says NO.....but he/I come from the Carb daze yet.....and bekause it is DPFI and so the pissers are out of sink with the general operation....mutch less the spark.....could it run and REV rough but make no power to actually run the car???

at this point is grasping at straws.....obviously....and danm well sick and tired of the project.....damnit....
It shouldnt run 180 out...it would be firing as the puston came up on the exhaust stroke...or as the intake vslves were opening.
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Old 12-12-2021, 11:37am   #28
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I’m sticking with yes it would run but not right….The wires would have to also be 180 off. Fuel is batch fed to each bank, they’d fire.
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Old 12-12-2021, 1:07pm   #29
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I’m sticking with yes it would run but not right….The wires would have to also be 180 off. Fuel is batch fed to each bank, they’d fire.
WELL, so to take the rotor off, cut a slot for the metal tab to stick through and put back 180* out from the 'correct' position, and give it a shot......

krazy as it seems....
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Old 12-12-2021, 1:45pm   #30
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The machine shop did the short block assy.....so I ASSume the cam timing is korrect.......they guyz seem to no watt they are doin'......

SO.....IF I have that dizzy in 180 out.....my FAR OUT questin IS can the engine run at all......an old hot rodder mopar buddy says NO.....but he/I come from the Carb daze yet.....and bekause it is DPFI and so the pissers are out of sink with the general operation....mutch less the spark.....could it run and REV rough but make no power to actually run the car???

at this point is grasping at straws.....obviously....and danm well sick and tired of the project.....damnit....
I can guarantee the cam timing is correct since My dad does most of the assembly work in that shop.

Gene, you probably don't have your timing right off the distributor and I still think you don't have your valves set correct, either.
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Old 12-12-2021, 2:58pm   #31
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I can guarantee the cam timing is correct since My dad does most of the assembly work in that shop.

Gene, you probably don't have your timing right off the distributor and I still think you don't have your valves set correct, either.
The drive bone connected to the cam bone, the cam bone connected to the valve bone, the valve bone connected to the dizzy bone, an I hear the word of the Lord.
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Old 12-12-2021, 3:57pm   #32
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If it turns out to be a bad distributor, I have a new, lightly used HEI I bought for my 454. I used it to break in the motor, and was going to use it in my 47 Olds, but it's too big and hits the firewall so I put an old points distributor in it. It's a cheapy Ebay one, but you're welcome to it. Consider it an early Christmas present. If you want it, just shoot my a pm with an address
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Old 12-12-2021, 4:07pm   #33
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If it turns out to be a bad distributor, I have a new, lightly used HEI I bought for my 454. I used it to break in the motor, and was going to use it in my 47 Olds, but it's too big and hits the firewall so I put an old points distributor in it. It's a cheapy Ebay one, but you're welcome to it. Consider it an early Christmas present. If you want it, just shoot my a pm with an address
at this point (no pun intended) it couldn't hurt.
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Old 12-12-2021, 4:36pm   #34
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That's what I thought, but started to second guess it because of the raggedy/crappy running this engine is doing.....guess I have to go buy a crappy 30 buck code reader or do the A-B jumper and see if it tosses codes that way....

My kid had a program on his cell phone to read codes. Still need to buy the cord to plug in though. No idea how he got that but it did what it was supposed to. Might be an option for you if you've got one of those newfangled contraptions.
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Old 12-12-2021, 4:38pm   #35
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WELL, I flipped the rotor cap around 180* and so it backfired like a shotgun/270 win combined....woke HELL outta the hood.......

oh well, maybe it blew something else back into place.....put it back to 'normal' and engine started/ran same way......

so back to the mystery chart.....me thinking of pulling the damn China made injectors and examining them with a BRIGHT light and a mag glass and reverse pressure blasting with air.....they not been off the manifold since maybe3 years ago.....
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Old 12-12-2021, 4:58pm   #36
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WELL, I flipped the rotor cap around 180* and so it backfired like a shotgun/270 win combined....woke HELL outta the hood.......

oh well, maybe it blew something else back into place.....put it back to 'normal' and engine started/ran same way......

so back to the mystery chart.....me thinking of pulling the damn China made injectors and examining them with a BRIGHT light and a mag glass and reverse pressure blasting with air.....they not been off the manifold since maybe3 years ago.....
I still think your valves aren't adjusted right. fix that then do your timing.

We've only been telling you your valves aren't right for weeks and they way you are doing it obviously isn't working.
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Old 12-12-2021, 5:57pm   #37
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I still think your valves aren't adjusted right. fix that then do your timing.

We've only been telling you your valves aren't right for weeks and they way you are doing it obviously isn't working.
I hear you man, but I just followed the adj. sequence as in my GM factory '87 vette manual.....L98 roller cam, witch is was WATT in it long ago....so I followed the manual sequence but NOW that I think of events some 20+ years ago, seems that on SOME car I set up some cardboard to stop oil dripping over the ledge and keep it off the exhaust....but rather hard to do on this car what with the serp drive and the a/c comp location, much less the driver side.....but I tightened the valves only 1/4 turn, not the 1/2 turn you recommended....but being HI drawlick wood 1/4 turn too 'loose' make any diff??

I wondering about the injectors at this point......may just pull them tmrw and see watt is rong with them, maybe just blow them out with a rubber tip air jet and cleaner......

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Old 12-12-2021, 7:08pm   #38
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WELL, I flipped the rotor cap around 180* and so it backfired like a shotgun/270 win combined....woke HELL outta the hood.......

oh well, maybe it blew something else back into place.....put it back to 'normal' and engine started/ran same way......

so back to the mystery chart.....me thinking of pulling the damn China made injectors and examining them with a BRIGHT light and a mag glass and reverse pressure blasting with air.....they not been off the manifold since maybe3 years ago.....
Check your plug wires and firing order. Check it again. One more time just to be positive. Confirm the firing order and I'm sure you know 1-3-5-7 are on drv. side.

Start is up and remove one plug wire at a time. If you pull one plug wire and there is NO difference in the way it idles that is your problem cyl. That cyl. ain't firing in the hole.

Do you have a fuel pressure gauge? And what psi are you getting at the rail?

Fire it up and turn dizzy a little each way and see if it smooths out.

Again, check your firing order and plug wires. MAKE SURE YOU DON'T HAVE ONE OR MORE GOING TO THE WRONG CYL.
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Old 12-12-2021, 7:34pm   #39
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Check your plug wires and firing order. Check it again. One more time just to be positive. Confirm the firing order and I'm sure you know 1-3-5-7 are on drv. side.

Start is up and remove one plug wire at a time. If you pull one plug wire and there is NO difference in the way it idles that is your problem cyl. That cyl. ain't firing in the hole.

Do you have a fuel pressure gauge? And what psi are you getting at the rail?

Fire it up and turn dizzy a little each way and see if it smooths out.

Again, check your firing order and plug wires. MAKE SURE YOU DON'T HAVE ONE OR MORE GOING TO THE WRONG CYL.
I have ceramic plug tips on the wires....ran fine before the troubles....new dizzy cap/rotor......since then.....thing is, it runs rough as HELL, and then it develops other issues....idle valve opening up for much more air and then cutting back and seems like a fuel issue...but fuel pressure is in the 42 region, witch worked fine with the injectors on there some months ago....so I going to pop the fuel rails and see WTF is with the injectors....maybe crap in the little screens on top of them??? stopping fuel flow??
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Old 12-12-2021, 9:00pm   #40
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If what I think is going on, is actually what is going on, that won't work in and of itself. The distributor will be pointing at number 1 at the top of the exhaust stroke instead of the compression stroke. You would have to take the valve covers off, and watch the valves to make sure you were at the end of the compression stroke on number 1, then see where the distributor is pointing. My guess is it will be pointing at the 5th cylinder in the firing order, which for my engine would be cylinder #6.
I don't care either way. PostCount++;
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