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Old 02-03-2013, 8:46pm   #21
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magnet looks like a chia-pet.
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Old 02-03-2013, 8:48pm   #22
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Quote:
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magnet looks like a skia-pet.
That bad?
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Old 02-03-2013, 9:04pm   #23
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So I'm looking at a new crate motor with warranty for $2000, or a used engine on craigslist in questionable condition for anywhere from $600 to $1000. What would i be looking to tear engine out and rebuild that, if the metal is off the crank, and the pistons/rods are good?
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Old 02-03-2013, 9:08pm   #24
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You'd have a very hard time rebuilding an engine correctly for under two grand. No warranty either
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Old 02-03-2013, 9:09pm   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Montehall View Post
So I'm looking at a new crate motor with warranty for $2000, or a used engine on craigslist in questionable condition for anywhere from $600 to $1000. What would i be looking to tear engine out and rebuild that, if the metal is off the crank, and the pistons/rods are good?
Well, the technical advice here is free.
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Old 02-03-2013, 9:21pm   #26
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Thunderbolt Commercial, 1983 - YouTube



They put the yee-haw back in your motor and transmission......free towing, too.
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Old 02-03-2013, 10:23pm   #27
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The last one I had somebody rebuild was $2500. That was 12 yrs. ago. I'm sure labor, machining, parts have all increased in price. Have you checked Jasper engines ?

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So I'm looking at a new crate motor with warranty for $2000, or a used engine on craigslist in questionable condition for anywhere from $600 to $1000. What would i be looking to tear engine out and rebuild that, if the metal is off the crank, and the pistons/rods are good?
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Old 02-03-2013, 10:32pm   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Montehall View Post
So I'm looking at a new crate motor with warranty for $2000, or a used engine on craigslist in questionable condition for anywhere from $600 to $1000. What would i be looking to tear engine out and rebuild that, if the metal is off the crank, and the pistons/rods are good?
If by some miracle the bore, crank, rods and pistons are good, you would still spend $1,000. A cheap master rebuild kit is $350, but you will most likely spend $1,000 on machine work to measure everything, cut the crank, hone it, mount the pistons on the rods and rebuild the heads.
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Old 02-03-2013, 11:48pm   #29
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You're debating putting a $2,000 engine into a $500 car?

I have some ocean front property in Arizona I would like to talk to you about.
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Old 02-04-2013, 12:08am   #30
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Quote:
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You're debating putting a $2,000 engine into a $500 car?

I have some ocean front property in Arizona I would like to talk to you about.
Where else can you send $2,000 for a v-8 sports car with a warranty?
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Old 02-04-2013, 12:12am   #31
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Put the crate motor in, sell the "original Corvette in need of rebuilding" motor to someone for say....500$. You can always pull the crate motor out and drop in a junker if you sell it at a later date. That's what I would do.
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Old 02-04-2013, 1:03am   #32
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I wiped an exhaust lobe off of a solid lifter cam once (because I let my friend adjust all the rockers on the passenger side so I wouldn't have to walk back and forth-lesson learned).

Point being that I spent a few bucks on a new cam, flushed the oil pan with kerosene, and did an oil change right after the new cam was broke in. That engine ran for several years and ran 11's with a 100 shot of nitrous. a few flakes of metal won't necessarily hurt the crank bearings, especially with an oil filter there to grab them.

Now what I would really like to know is the state of your pistons since you had the low compression. My particular example was on a new engine so I only had to fix the cam problem. Maybe the mal-adjusted rockers had left you with open valves, or maybe your engine is junk.
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Old 02-04-2013, 1:17am   #33
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Well, it is a Chevy so it wont die just yet I don't think..

If the engine has no knocks or rattles in it yet...

Look at the cam lobes, still look ok?

I would toss in a set of used lifters if you can grab some up somewhere for free or cheap, clean the engine out good, epoxy a magnet in the bottom of your oil pan and slap it back together.

Use some cheap oil when you first start it up, and let it idle awhile after adjusting the rockers.

Change the oil and filter again, and drive it!
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Old 02-04-2013, 7:30am   #34
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Park it in the back 40 and wait for another cash for clunkers rebate.
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Old 02-04-2013, 8:16am   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by island14 View Post
Well, it is a Chevy so it wont die just yet I don't think..

If the engine has no knocks or rattles in it yet...

Look at the cam lobes, still look ok?

I would toss in a set of used lifters if you can grab some up somewhere for free or cheap, clean the engine out good, epoxy a magnet in the bottom of your oil pan and slap it back together.

Use some cheap oil when you first start it up, and let it idle awhile after adjusting the rockers.

Change the oil and filter again, and drive it!
I was thinking about this... but I still have the sqeauk, whatever that is.
the good news is that I didn't actually see and real metals "flakes" just powdered stuff.
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Old 02-04-2013, 9:08am   #36
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could the powder be left over from having the heads magnafluxed?
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Old 02-04-2013, 10:03am   #37
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On the cheap.


Chevy 350 357 Short Block 395HP Engine Motor SBC Flat Tappet 79 85 2pc RMS | eBay
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Old 02-04-2013, 10:07am   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JackDidley View Post
a 2-bolt short block?
how can you claim HP numbers on a short block?
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Old 02-04-2013, 12:15pm   #39
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I'll be interested to see what my oil filter looks like in the inside.
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Old 02-04-2013, 12:50pm   #40
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GM_Warranty.pdf
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