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C4 Open Discussion General and technical C4 Corvette discussion - ownership, maintenance, repairs, modifications, tuning |
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08-04-2012, 6:43pm | #1 | ||||||
A Real Barner
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Heated 02's another legitimate c4 thread
I installed heated 02's on my car and they don't seem to be working. I was wondering if anyone has done this mod before. I could be wrong but I assumed the heated 02's should go into closed loop much quicker. The sensors seem to be working according to a datalog but I see no evidence that the sensors are heating. Here is what I did.
The parts Plugged them together and marked the harness wire that goes to the blue 02 wire. Cut a harness plug from an old 02 sensor. Pulled the metal part out of connectors to use on the solderless connections. Made the connection and had heat shrink ready to slide into place. Used high heat silicone to give it that little extra moisture resistance before heating the shrink tape. Used painless high heat 16 ga wire to run for the 12v hot and ground wires. Finished building the harness using black conduit to cover the wires Topside the wires come out just under the wiper motor where I am pulling the switched 12v source. See the brown wire that I pulled back the insulation just enough to wrap a piece of wire around. I cut a 1' piece of the painless wire and pulled back the insulation on it then twisted it around the brown wire and dabbed it with solder then wrapped with black tape. Used plug type connectors to connect the 12v source to the new harness wires. And connected the ground to the fuel rail cover stud. I figured a ground to the engine would work well. |
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08-04-2012, 6:48pm | #2 | ||||||
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Bill,
Did you get the engine light on or a code? Lets try this again. Disconnect the battery for few minutes. Start the Vette and let it idle for 10 minutes. Drive it around, shut the engine and do another test. |
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08-04-2012, 6:53pm | #3 | |||||||
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Quote:
Why would driving it allow the heaters to get hot? |
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08-04-2012, 7:09pm | #4 | |||||||
Barn Stall Owner #120
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Quote:
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08-04-2012, 7:36pm | #5 | ||||||
A Real Barner
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The 12v source I used should have been switched, so key on and the heaters should start warming. When I finished I turned the key on and checked the temp (using a temp gun) on the header collector where they were installed. There was no heat change but I thought maybe the heaters are small enough to not radiate heat that far. So I went ahead and connected the computer and started the car and datalog. My car does not go into closed loop very easy and will take several minutes which is one of the reasons I did the mod. There was no change. If fact when the car did go into closed loop it went straight to split BLMs. I think maybe this is why you wanted me to run the car. I'm not going to worry about the BLMs until I can get some drive time in.
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08-04-2012, 8:18pm | #6 | ||||||
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I don't see enough duct tape.
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08-04-2012, 9:52pm | #7 | ||||||
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08-05-2012, 10:08am | #8 | ||||||
Vette Barn Crew
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I would relocate the ground wire to the chassis, near the battery. There is a ground cluster over there.
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08-05-2012, 11:54am | #9 | ||||||
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Pete, I should have checked the voltage at the new harness plugs at the sensors. I'll also give your suggestion a try. Do you know if the heaters should produce enough heat to feel it on the pipes?
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08-05-2012, 12:00pm | #10 | ||||||
Vette Barn Crew
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I am not sure. My heated sensor will normally allow the car to go into closed loop pretty quickly though. I never had luck grounding to aluminum, so I am hoping a chassis ground will fix you right up.
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08-05-2012, 12:09pm | #11 | ||||||
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Didn't know about the aluminum ground issue. I will try it and the chassis ground behind the battery. That sucks too, it looks so purdy and was convenient where I put it.
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08-05-2012, 12:43pm | #12 | ||||||
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I grounded mine to the chassis. I also watch the engine on TTS Datamaster and after 90 seconds it goes into closed loop. I have the 3 wire sensors, and long tubes on my 93. Remember, it is .1 volt. Grounds are very important.
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08-05-2012, 2:23pm | #13 | |||||||
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Quote:
I connected the 2 black wires to a 12 volt source and a ground. If by .1 volt your talking about the sensor. Except for the heater part, the 02 sensor actually seems to be working normal (as compared to the regular 1 wire). I'm using Tunerpro RT and the sensors are flashing back and forth between 900 and 100 mv. |
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08-05-2012, 2:52pm | #14 | |||||||
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Quote:
I used the AIR pump source and grounded on chassis grounds on frame. The .1 volt is so small, and with bad grounds, it can cause a O2 to send bad data to the ECM. Yours seems to be good. |
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08-05-2012, 3:40pm | #15 | |||||||
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08-05-2012, 4:27pm | #16 | |||||||
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Quote:
J/K. I have been fighting BLM issues for years. Once off idle they are fine. There are aso many tricks, suggestions, etc etc. I just gave up. I have had at least 7 different well respected tuners try to fix my BLMs. I even did the drill modification on the manifolds idle circuits under the LT1 manifold. No joy. The manifold, along with a camshafts duration just causes reversion, and the sensors just see something that makes it adjust the BLMS accordingly. I have been to Camaro tuners, sites, Corvette tuners and all respective sites. OCD and unless you have a 94-96, you just cant tune each cylinder. If you look at the tables for each cylinder in a 94-96, since they have sequential injection, vice batch fire, they are able to alter pulse widths on each injector for idle. We cant in 92/93 LT1's for example. |
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08-05-2012, 7:59pm | #17 | |||||||
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Quote:
For everyone who tried to help. It turns out the brown wire I tapped into is only hot with 12 volts when unplugged. Yep, when I tested the voltage on my new 02 harness plug I was only getting 1.3 Volts so I unplugged the wiper motor plug and checked it again and 12 volts. I'm scratching my head. I plug it back in and run a needle through the wire and whodda thunkit 1.3 volts. The are 2 harness plugs in the wiper motor so I check the wires on other and found a 12 volt switched wire there. We are working now, started the car and 90 seconds later, closed loop. Now we'll see if I sealed my new opti well enough. When I got back to the house and popped the hood I was hit with antifreeze. I blew the 3/4" hose that goes into the throttle body and it was spraying all over the front of the engine. |
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08-05-2012, 8:04pm | #18 | ||||||
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SOunds like you are working now.
The LT1 manifold is a fancy little bread box. It doesnt separate the cylinders like an L98 does. There are many threads about BLM split. Google, sit down with a note pad, and have some coffee. |
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08-05-2012, 8:09pm | #19 | ||||||
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Yeah, I have had a taste of googling split BLMs before. It's overwhelming to say the least. Thanks for the help.
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