Two headbolt questions

[2manycars]

I had one of the heads off of my Corvette's LS1. I used antisieze. If yours is an aluminum LS series engine, make damned sure that there is NO coolant at the bottom of those bolt holes. You have to use new bolts on an LS too.

[Don Rickles]

I ordered new head bolts for the 4.9 inline 6 I'm rebuilding....F'in overseas shit arrived, wrong size shaft, lengths, and thread....They are still in the box, I reused the old bolts torqued to spec and sequences....

[Vette40th]

Unless they are torque to yield one time use only bolts, go ahead and reuse.

[Aerovette]

Originally Posted by Vette40th

Unless they are torque to yield one time use only bolts, go ahead and reuse.

They are, and I already have replacements.

[PLRX]

Originally Posted by Vette40th

LS blocks use new bolts and some bolts need sealant, as they go into water jacket.
LT1s, cant rememember honestly.
But like I said, rod bolts you use what the manufacturer states

SBC Gen 1 & 2 need teflon sealant.

Originally Posted by aerovette

It's an Isuzu Rodeo. ARP bolts probably cost what the car is worth.

Junk it

It blew a head gasket and I am putting one on it. I did this job in July of 21 and had a cheap degree tool for the bolts AND, they were binding (dry). Surprisingly the job lasted this long but I'd rather get closer to doing it right this time. I can't re-torque without taking the cams out so I want to get it right the first time.

I think the radiator flush and fill is what killed it. The head gasket coolant holes were blocked solid with rusty "mud".

Related question. I am not getting the head surfaced.

WRONG, it will fail.

Will I know pretty quick if that is a problem or will it show up down the line? I'm repairing this for function not reliability. Great car for someone to haul to Mexico and keep it there.

Originally Posted by Vette40th

Unless they are torque to yield one time use only bolts, go ahead and reuse.

Originally Posted by aerovette

They are, and I already have replacements.

Torque, yield to specs, and pray there are no leaks.

[Aerovette]

I'll check the head with a straight edge and feeler gauge and if it's good, I'm goin for it. If it's bad, I'll have to ponder the next move. I may go for it and dump it quick and cheap.

[Vandelay Industries]

Originally Posted by aerovette

I'll check the head with a straight edge and feeler gauge and if it's good, I'm goin for it. If it's bad, I'll have to ponder the next move. I may go for it and dump it quick and cheap.

Wait, this is a flip? Make sure you pop a couple holes in the exhaust pipe!

[Aerovette]

Originally Posted by Vandelay Industries

Wait, this is a flip? Make sure you pop a couple holes in the exhaust pipe!

That's a given.

If 4 holes is for a V8 dual exhaust, would a 4 cylinder single exhaust be more holes, or fewer holes? I don't have the formula memorized.

[Vandelay Industries]

Originally Posted by aerovette

That's a given.

If 4 holes is for a V8 dual exhaust, would a 4 cylinder single exhaust be more holes, or fewer holes? I don't have the formula memorized.

You need at least 2 holes for proper resonation, but you can use a slightly smaller drill bit for a 4 cyl. I recommend 3/16".

[Aerovette]

Originally Posted by Vandelay Industries

You need at least 2 holes for proper resonation, but you can use a slightly smaller drill bit for a 4 cyl. I recommend 3/16".

I'm looking for a V8 sound, not a VW sound.

[DJ_Critterus]

Originally Posted by aerovette

I'm looking for a V8 sound, not a VW sound.

Better get your water ski ready.

[Vandelay Industries]

Originally Posted by aerovette

I'm looking for a V8 sound, not a VW sound.

You'll need 4 holes for that.

Or 3 holes and 7mm spacers.

[Fastguy]

https://www.planetisuzoo.com/threads...threads.84614/

On a dry blind hole block, I clean the hole out and wipe the bolts with some Wd40, as in, barely enough to make the bolt shiny. Antiseize will dramatically alter the torque value.
If you don't have a good angle torque wrench, you can use a fine tip sharpie and a protractor. Draw a vertical line on the bolt head, start with the wrench at 12 o'clock and turn it until its at 3 o'clock. You can look at the line on the bolt head to make sure you made it all the way to 90*. Repeat for the other 2 cycles and the line should be horizontal.

[Yesfam]

I cracked a VW 4 cylinder diesel block by using anti-seize on the head bolts. It seemed to be taking forever for the bolt to torque and the block cracked in the R/R corner. Split right through the bolt hole to the deck. Ever since I have followed the engine makers recommendations for what to do with the head bolts with regard to coating them.

[Aerovette]

Originally Posted by Yesfam

I cracked a VW 4 cylinder diesel block by using anti-seize on the head bolts. It seemed to be taking forever for the bolt to torque and the block cracked in the R/R corner. Split right through the bolt hole to the deck. Ever since I have followed the engine makers recommendations for what to do with the head bolts with regard to coating them.

[Aerovette]

Originally Posted by Fastguy

https://www.planetisuzoo.com/threads...threads.84614/

On a dry blind hole block, I clean the hole out and wipe the bolts with some Wd40, as in, barely enough to make the bolt shiny. Antiseize will dramatically alter the torque value.
If you don't have a good angle torque wrench, you can use a fine tip sharpie and a protractor. Draw a vertical line on the bolt head, start with the wrench at 12 o'clock and turn it until its at 3 o'clock. You can look at the line on the bolt head to make sure you made it all the way to 90*. Repeat for the other 2 cycles and the line should be horizontal.

This worked PERFECTLY. No galling, smooth at every step. The head is on and torqued. A buddy loaned me his Kobalt Torque angle wrench. What a BREEZE !!

[Fastguy]

I like to stop by every 10 years or so and help out.

[Taurus]

Originally Posted by PLRX

Hold on..

If you are using ARP bolts, follow ARP's instructions.

If your block has water jackets, you must use teflon sealant. If they go into a solid block, use anti-seize. ARP bolts come with their lubricant. ARP lubricant is not teflon. I used ARP lubricant under the bolt's head and washer.

Do not adjust your torque specs.

^^^^^^^^^^ What Pete said. Was an ARP distributor for years, they know.

[Jughead]

Originally Posted by Vandelay Industries

You'll need 4 holes for that.

Or 3 holes and 7mm spacers.

We scared that dude away.

[Aerovette]

I drilled holes in the head next to the exhaust valves. The sound is incredible. I put a 7mm spacer between the head and the block, but the bolts wouldn't engage so I bought new ones that are just as long.