My sons POS car being a POC

[sublime1996525]

I'd bet it's just the motor mounts.

Side note, I've got a 2012 Fiat 500 I'll let go for $8k.....lol

[SnikPlosskin]

Originally Posted by Mick

That's about what I was thinking too. I've done hubs a few times, and it is usually a full afternoon for me. The serpentine belt is a snap to replace, so are the pulleys if you don't run into a badly stuck fastener. All of that can be done on a Saturday with a few breaks.

I've never done motor mounts myself, but I don't think I have the equipment necessary to get the car up, and lift the engine off the mounts (probably one of the big reasons I've never done them). Do you have access to a lift?

No lift. This is a small engine 1.4l - we will put it up on stands and use floor jack to raise motor. The question is how accessible are the mounts?

I need to get the car, remove front wheels and get under it.

Having said that, I already know this is going suck balls. I wish I had some of you wrench turners here for the help. My fear is getting halfway through and be unable to finish from fatigue.

But, this is what fathers do.

When I was on tour in my early 20’s, my car blew the motor in North Texas. My father drove 1200 miles one way to trailer the car back to Wyoming.

It took him a week to get things together and make the drive. I stayed at Motel Six for 7 days. He paid for that too. Wouldn’t take my money.

I wish he was still with us.

[Rodnok1]

Well getz to a point where you point and say take that off. When he spends half hr turning bolt wrong way after you told him so... You just say i need another cold drink be back when break that bolt off since you're tightening it.
Not that I've done that a few dozen times.
Sucks to still be working until midnight cause won't listen and dad in house sleeping so on yer own. Ya know they manage to get it done anyway eventually.

[ZipZap]

Originally Posted by SnikPlosskin

No lift. This is a small engine 1.4l - we will put it up on stands and use floor jack to raise motor. The question is how accessible are the mounts?

I need to get the car, remove front wheels and get under it.

Having said that, I already know this is going suck balls. I wish I had some of you wrench turners here for the help. My fear is getting halfway through and be unable to finish from fatigue.

But, this is what fathers do.

When I was on tour in my early 20’s, my car blew the motor in North Texas. My father drove 1200 miles one way to trailer the car back to Wyoming.

It took him a week to get things together and make the drive. I stayed at Motel Six for 7 days. He paid for that too. Wouldn’t take my money.

I wish he was still with us.

Be ready with a 4x4 to put on the floor jack to get extra height if you need it for the motor mounts.

2 hours/side is overkill on the hubs/brakes. Here's a good video to show you hubs:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oFV5GRrTelY&ab_channel=MiguelFM

If you have the rotor and pads handy, add another 5 minutes. Put some moly lube on the splines for reassembly. Take note of the manual/torque wrench reassembly of the axle nut. A strong impact wrench will ruin the bearings. Since you pulled the caliper, go ahead and clean/lube the slider pins whether you do the brake job, or not.

[SnikPlosskin]

Originally Posted by Rodnok1

Well getz to a point where you point and say take that off. When he spends half hr turning bolt wrong way after you told him so... You just say i need another cold drink be back when break that bolt off since you're tightening it.
Not that I've done that a few dozen times.
Sucks to still be working until midnight cause won't listen and dad in house sleeping so on yer own. Ya know they manage to get it done anyway eventually.

Originally Posted by ZipZap

Be ready with a 4x4 to put on the floor jack to get extra height if you need it for the motor mounts.

2 hours/side is overkill on the hubs/brakes. Here's a good video to show you hubs:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oFV5...annel=MiguelFM

If you have the rotor and pads handy, add another 5 minutes. Put some moly lube on the splines for reassembly. Take note of the manual/torque wrench reassembly of the axle nut. A strong impact wrench will ruin the bearings. Since you pulled the caliper, go ahead and clean/lube the slider pins whether you do the brake job, or not.

It doesn’t look very difficult. But torque wrench is needed.

I bet it doesn’t even need a brake job. It has 128k miles on it. (I thought more….)

[MadInNc]

Deals are out there still. Does require lots of Zaino though and a PortCable

[SnikPlosskin]

Got it up on stands today to check diagnosis and difficulty of motor mounts.

Oddly the driver's side brake pads are more worn than the pass side. There is some minor grooving in the disk. Otherwise brakes and rotors look fine - we'll change the pads.

Front and right motor mounts - doable. Parts are $33.00. No chance it should cost almost $1k to replace two mounts. Wow.

Driver's bearings/hub = fried. Replacing both.

Spark plugs, air filter, oil change, coolant flush

Total parts $188.00 (retail)

The quote was $2,800.

I'm going to have a shop replace the serpentine belt and pulleys. We replaced it in 2019 but it's wandering and squealing. It's an easy job - except in this POS. There is zero room to work. Never again.

So at the end of the day - kid will be out about $400 and he can wait out the Cuba Style Biden Car Shortage

I would pay for it because, dad, but that kid spends money on guns and shit. He is lucky I'm even helping.

[Mick]

Originally Posted by SnikPlosskin

Got it up on stands today to check diagnosis and difficulty of motor mounts.

Oddly the driver's side brake pads are more worn than the pass side. There is some minor grooving in the disk. Otherwise brakes and rotors look fine - we'll change the pads.

Front and right motor mounts - doable. Parts are $33.00. No chance it should cost almost $1k to replace two mounts. Wow.

Driver's bearings/hub = fried. Replacing both.

Spark plugs, air filter, oil change, coolant flush

Total parts $188.00 (retail)

The quote was $2,800.

I'm going to have a shop replace the serpentine belt and pulleys. We replaced it in 2019 but it's wandering and squealing. It's an easy job - except in this POS. There is zero room to work. Never again.

So at the end of the day - kid will be out about $400 and he can wait out the Cuba Style Biden Car Shortage

I would pay for it because, dad, but that kid spends money on guns and shit. He is lucky I'm even helping.

I don't know specifically what vehicle you are talking about, but the last serpentine belt I replaced was on a 2003 Explorer. I literally put a 3/8" socket extension into a hole in the idler pulley, and turned the wrench to relieve the pressure on the belt, and it practically fell off on its own. Putting the new one on was as simple as following the routing diagram, and twisting the idler pulley again to get the belt on, and letting go. It was very likely the EASIEST part replacement I have EVER done on ANY vehicle.

The one previous to that was my 1991 Olds Cutlass Supreme. That was a couple of decades ago, but I recall that one was also extremely easy too. My recommendation: Save your money and replace the belt yourself. With the belt off, examine the pulleys carefully. I'm guessing they might look just fine. If they do, put the new belt on and see if anything is making noise.

[Rodnok1]

To replace the belt on my park Ave engine out has to come off, 2 to 3 hrs usually to change.

[Mick]

Originally Posted by Rodnok1

To replace the belt on my park Ave engine out has to come off, 2 to 3 hrs usually to change.

What is an "engine out"?

[Rodnok1]

Originally Posted by Mick

What is an "engine out"?

Sorry engine mount, trying a new tablet out and the keyboard and auto correct haven't been setup yet.

[SnikPlosskin]

Originally Posted by Mick

I don't know specifically what vehicle you are talking about, but the last serpentine belt I replaced was on a 2003 Explorer. I literally put a 3/8" socket extension into a hole in the idler pulley, and turned the wrench to relieve the pressure on the belt, and it practically fell off on its own. Putting the new one on was as simple as following the routing diagram, and twisting the idler pulley again to get the belt on, and letting go. It was very likely the EASIEST part replacement I have EVER done on ANY vehicle.

The one previous to that was my 1991 Olds Cutlass Supreme. That was a couple of decades ago, but I recall that one was also extremely easy too. My recommendation: Save your money and replace the belt yourself. With the belt off, examine the pulleys carefully. I'm guessing they might look just fine. If they do, put the new belt on and see if anything is making noise.

This is a 2010 Chrysler Sebring. It's a transverse four banger. You have to remove the pass. wheel, inner fender liner and you have barely enough room for your hand to fit. We have to replace tensioner and idler. You can't even see the idler pulley. NOTHING like an Explorer.

This car is known as one of the worst cars to work on. The ****ing battery is inside the front fender.

We've done the job once. To put the belt on, takes two people. One under and one working top side. you can't see half the pulleys, you have to feel your way. can't reach the idler pulley at all. it's a nightmare.

The other reason is that I want the shop responsible for getting rid of the screeching sound. If it was just changing the belt I might do it again but there are other issues there that I don't want to deal with.

I had a 2004 Explorer Limited with the V8. I did everything from new intake manifold, entire front suspension, transmission swap, alternator - I can't even remember all the shit.

I replaced the A/C in my C5, replaced the shocks with Z06 shocks, fixed the vent doors, fixed the electric seat, the rear window

I built my C2 - every bolt, every washer. Sectioned frame, built the engine, did the upholstery, replaced the windshield, designed my own wiring - literally did the entire car.

I'm not afraid to tackle shit. But that belt - never again. Plus, we have so much to do I don't need anything more.

Also - the boy is paying for it. I'm saving him $2,600 so I figure that's close enough.

[Bill]

Originally Posted by SnikPlosskin

This is a 2010 Chrysler Sebring. It's a transverse four banger. You have to remove the pass. wheel, inner fender liner and you have barely enough room for your hand to fit. We have to replace tensioner and idler. You can't even see the idler pulley. NOTHING like an Explorer.

This car is known as one of the worst cars to work on. The ****ing battery is inside the front fender.

We've done the job once. To put the belt on, takes two people. One under and one working top side. you can't see half the pulleys, you have to feel your way. can't reach the idler pulley at all. it's a nightmare.

The other reason is that I want the shop responsible for getting rid of the screeching sound. If it was just changing the belt I might do it again but there are other issues there that I don't want to deal with.

I had a 2004 Explorer Limited with the V8. I did everything from new intake manifold, entire front suspension, transmission swap, alternator - I can't even remember all the shit.

I replaced the A/C in my C5, replaced the shocks with Z06 shocks, fixed the vent doors, fixed the electric seat, the rear window

I built my C2 - every bolt, every washer. Sectioned frame, built the engine, did the upholstery, replaced the windshield, designed my own wiring - literally did the entire car.

I'm not afraid to tackle shit. But that belt - never again. Plus, we have so much to do I don't need anything more.

Also - the boy is paying for it. I'm saving him $2,600 so I figure that's close enough.

[C-4 has entered the chat]

[Rodnok1]

Originally Posted by bill_daniels

[C-4 has entered the chat]

Oh the c4 is easy compared to a sebring, total shit show and everything corrodes badly from road salt. Any time take the tire off is mentioned to change a battery you know yer screwed. Friend had one of those POS, everything was a nightmare on it, i did the timing belt twice.

[Rodnok1]

Bringing back nightmares Snik...
Has thw timing belt been done, think 100k is due but check. Luckily the 2,4 not an interference engine.
Sucks ass to change it, we did water pump since in there. Zero room to fit hands IIRC, it was cold as balls and no garage.

[SnikPlosskin]

Originally Posted by Rodnok1

Bringing back nightmares Snik...
Has thw timing belt been done, think 100k is due but check. Luckily the 2,4 not an interference engine.
Sucks ass to change it, we did water pump since in there. Zero room to fit hands IIRC, it was cold as balls and no garage.

We looked that up when we bought it. 2010 uses a chain!