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Old 12-20-2018, 07:16pm   #1
SnikPlosskin
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Default NCC-1701A Enterprise Refit

Well, due to an unfortunate Klingon misplaced soccer ball, the three foot long, fully lit Enterprise model I built more than ten years ago is roached. The upper hull saucer broke off and the wiring was just too short to fix. A couple weeks ago after I cut the wires to separate the disk, I could see that there was no way to repair it.

Oh well, 100+ hours down the drain.

So, Iím starting this build thread of a new 1/350 scale model. This time with far more sophisticated electronics and a new base that is waaaay more stable than the pile of crap on the original model.

There is a lot of modifying needed to make this work and Iíve started removing plastic that gets in the way of the lighting and modifying other areas to improve fit.

One of the first steps is light blocking with several coats of flat black, then a coat of flat white primer to make the insides reflect the light.

Some pics.
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Old 12-20-2018, 07:18pm   #2
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COOL! Can't wait to see the end results!
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Old 12-20-2018, 07:21pm   #3
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Iím not scratch building the electronics this time. I built my own circuit boards before. Screw that. Now there are full lighting kits on the market for this model that should save some time. Also, the LEDs are smaller and brighter. Iíll be using very fine magnet wire (33 gauge) to save some room. The previous model was stuffed to the brim with wiring and it stressed the seams.

This one will be far more precise and clean on the inside (that nobody will see) and will help if it ever needs repair since it will be more organized. There are about six different circuits for various navigation lights, strobes, photon torpedoes, a color shifting deflector dish, etc.

Iíll find a video and post it. Very neat if you are a huge dork like me.
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Old 12-20-2018, 07:26pm   #4
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Iím not scratch building the electronics this time. I built my own circuit boards before. Screw that. Now there are full lighting kits on the market for this model that should save some time. Also, the LEDs are smaller and brighter. Iíll be using very fine magnet wire (33 gauge) to save some room. The previous model was stuffed to the brim with wiring and it stressed the seams.

This one will be far more precise and clean on the inside (that nobody will see) and will help if it ever needs repair since it will be more organized. There are about six different circuits for various navigation lights, strobes, photon torpedoes, a color shifting deflector dish, etc.

Iíll find a video and post it. Very neat if you are a huge dork like me.
I dig it man. I binge watched a bunch of Star Trek recently, always have been a fan. Finished up the Enterprise series recently. Didn't give it much though when it came out, but I actually enjoyed it very much. The Vulcan science officer is pretty hot.
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Old 12-20-2018, 07:47pm   #5
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Turn your audio off (why does everyone play that damn music with videos of this model?)

The electronics system has different modes. 5is is the dry dock startup sequence from the movie when they first fire up the new ship.


The hardest part is the painting of the complex five color pearl panels all over the model. The masking alone takes about 40 hours. It is sprayed over a semigloss white and looks amazing. But maddening.
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Old 12-20-2018, 09:25pm   #6
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I have the most logical boner.

I love this.

I started one of these years ago, but just barely got into it before life got in the way.

Can't wait to see the progress!
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Old 12-20-2018, 09:31pm   #7
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I have the most logical boner.

I love this.

I started one of these years ago, but just barely got into it before life got in the way.

Can't wait to see the progress!
It could take a year. We shall see. My experience with the first one should speed things up, plus I donít have to create all the electronics although I will be adding some addditional lighting.

I need to figure out a base. The one that comes with it is crap. I was thinking of an oval shaped, black walnut base tapered like a river rock - sort of sleek oval blob. Iíd then hollow out the bottom for the main controller board.

But I donít really have any wood working tools. Not sure. Another option is basically a shallow box with a laser etched, plexi top. Iíd spray the back side black then have the etching done and put a bunch of LEDs inside so the laser etching lights up.

Iíve seen some bases like that. But I ainít paying $350 for one.
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Old 12-20-2018, 09:34pm   #8
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How big a base is needed?
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Old 12-20-2018, 10:10pm   #9
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How big a base is needed?
Do you know someone whoís good with wood? lol
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Old 12-20-2018, 10:10pm   #10
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Nothing is irreparable. 3D printers can be your friend.
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Old 12-20-2018, 10:19pm   #11
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Do you know someone whoís good with wood? lol
Maybe....
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Old 12-20-2018, 11:13pm   #12
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How big a base is needed?
Not sure. The model is three feet long. Iím thinking probably 16Ē long by 8Ē wide. Let me think on that. You got a belt sander?

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Nothing is irreparable. 3D printers can be your friend.
I thought about it but I may have burned one of the boards as I was testing the circuits. Plus I canít figure out how to clamp it. The other issue is that the glue wasnít holding. Lots of cracks all over the thing. Iíd have to do a lot of repairs and then the intricate paint work would have been hosed.

Iím using a plastic welding liquid glue this time. And then 3M structural adhesive on high load areas. That design was never meant to be under the force of gravity. Big stress point where the dish meets the neck.

Iíll be using several types of glue this time. It ainít never coming apart. Itís very hard to handle. Painting it stresses the joints. Itís a very difficult model.
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Old 12-20-2018, 11:43pm   #13
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Not sure. The model is three feet long. Iím thinking probably 16Ē long by 8Ē wide. Let me think on that. You got a belt sander?



I thought about it but I may have burned one of the boards as I was testing the circuits. Plus I canít figure out how to clamp it. The other issue is that the glue wasnít holding. Lots of cracks all over the thing. Iíd have to do a lot of repairs and then the intricate paint work would have been hosed.

Iím using a plastic welding liquid glue this time. And then 3M structural adhesive on high load areas. That design was never meant to be under the force of gravity. Big stress point where the dish meets the neck.

Iíll be using several types of glue this time. It ainít never coming apart. Itís very hard to handle. Painting it stresses the joints. Itís a very difficult model.
Stationary belt sander. Handheld belt sander. Oscillating spindle sander. Random orbital sander.

Tablesaw, two drill presses with mortising attachments, planer, bandsaw, router and router table, jointer, lathe (small ), about 120 clamps, various hand tools.

Got a picture of what you have in mind?
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Old 12-20-2018, 11:47pm   #14
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Stationary belt sander. Handheld belt sander. Oscillating spindle sander. Random orbital sander.

Tablesaw, two drill presses with mortising attachments, planer, bandsaw, router and router table, jointer, lathe (small ), about 120 clamps, various hand tools.

Got a picture of what you have in mind?
So jealous. My dad was a cabinet maker and I grew up with a huge shop. Now I got nuthin. Life without a table saw is no life at all.

Let me give it some thought and do some engineering tests and make a drawing. It might need some lead in the bottom for weight. The support for the model is a single metal tube so that is easy.
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Old 12-20-2018, 11:54pm   #15
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Maybe a base shaped like the shadow it casts.

Put a light directly over it, trace around it. BOOM, there's your template.
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Old 12-21-2018, 12:06am   #16
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So jealous. My dad was a cabinet maker and I grew up with a huge shop. Now I got nuthin. Life without a table saw is no life at all.

Let me give it some thought and do some engineering tests and make a drawing. It might need some lead in the bottom for weight. The support for the model is a single metal tube so that is easy.
Lead? Oh, I have lead...
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Old 12-21-2018, 01:50am   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CubSmurf View Post
I have the most logical boner.

I love this.

I started one of these years ago, but just barely got into it before life got in the way.

Can't wait to see the progress!
Hell, I built an A-10 model for my youngest son several years ago, and I can't even add up the time I have in it to make it look right. So yeah, I know the model he's building is going to take a minute. The prep and paint is a nightmare.
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Old 12-21-2018, 12:08pm   #18
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What if the base was shaped like the comm badge or is that too obvious?

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Old 12-21-2018, 12:34pm   #19
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What if the base was shaped like the comm badge or is that too obvious?

Actually that would be pretty cool.
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Old 12-21-2018, 01:51pm   #20
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Actually that would be pretty cool.
When you mentioned base, this was the first thing I thought of too.
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