What maintenance should I do.

[Olustee bus]

I have not cranked my 63 in two or three years. I have none ethanol fuel in it. Have not drained radiator in years. I need suggestions on what I really need to do.

I am changing oil and putting racing oil (high zinc) and a new filter in.

Should I flush the radiator/

How about flushing the brake system.

What about differential and transmission. Is it necessary to change.

YOur suggestions are appreciated.

[GTOguy]

No need to flush anything. Suck out most of the brake fluid in the master cyl. and replace with new fluid. Drain the radiator and re-fill with fresh 50/50 coolant and distilled water.
No worries about the diff and the trans. Check the fluid levels, though. If low or black, top off or change. Racing oil is not recommended for street driven cars as it does not have the anti-oxidizing additives. Recommend diesel speck oil like Rotella or Delo (what I use) or the expensive boutique oils like Brad Penn or Hemmings. I have simply started up and driven cars that have sat for 5-7 years with no issues at all. As you likely know, I am a retired auto technician with a ton of experience here.
The cars that need to be 'brought back' are usually 20 year and longer cars.

[Olustee bus]

This is the oil. Says it is for racing and classic cars. Would you not use it.

https://www.amazon.com/Valvoline-20W...ag=electors-20

Says it will increase horsepower. Whadayou think, maybe 40 or 50 horsepower? That would be great!

[MadInNc]

Originally Posted by GTOguy

No need to flush anything. Suck out most of the brake fluid in the master cyl. and replace with new fluid. Drain the radiator and re-fill with fresh 50/50 coolant and distilled water.
No worries about the diff and the trans. Check the fluid levels, though. If low or black, top off or change. Racing oil is not recommended for street driven cars as it does not have the anti-oxidizing additives. Recommend diesel speck oil like Rotella or Delo (what I use) or the expensive boutique oils like Brad Penn or Hemmings. I have simply started up and driven cars that have sat for 5-7 years with no issues at all. As you likely know, I am a retired auto technician with a ton of experience here.
The cars that need to be 'brought back' are usually 20 year and longer cars.

I use Shell Diesel Rotello oil (5w-40) in my 73 Eldo and 69M1. Even a few times in the FGT. Good stuff

[GTOguy]

The VR1 20/50 is too thick for my engines, which run factory tolerances and are not worn out. I run diesel spec Rotella or Delo in all my flat tappet stuff and have for about the past 20 or so years when they started to remove the ZDDP from regular oils so it would not mess up the cat converters on 400,000 mile Hondas and Hyundais that burned oil.
I have inspected diesel engines with 500,000 miles on them at teardown that used Rotella, and there was almost zero bearing wear, etc. It's very, very good stuff. And cheap, relatively speaking.

[snide]

After you get it running again, drive it!

[Frankie the Fink]

Listen to GTOGuy - the biggest thing is the brake fluid; if its DOT 3 and hygrosopic it can attract water - prob a flush and refill in order.... Otherwise I don't know that anything else should be a problem. My base motor split window had only been occasionally driven in a 4 year period and when I got it, the brake fluid was like mushroon soup and the clutch was stuck to the pressure plate (an easy fix in both cases)...

[Olustee bus]

What brake fluid should I use. Also, thanks to all for the advice.

[GTOguy]

DOT 3 will be just fine. Don't get it on the paint!!

I would: suck out the MC and re-fill with new fluid and call it good. If it's really dark, suck out the MC, fill it, and go around the car and open the bleeders, one at a time until clear fluid runs out. Keep your eye on the MC level....you do NOT want to run it dry. You can wash the brake fluid off the backing plates, etc. with plain water. Or connect a small tube to the nipple to direct fluid into a can or cup. Wash it off right after you are done with that particular wheel before moving on to the next.

[Grey Ghost]

I just use STP Zinc additive with regular oil in my C10.

IF and WHEN you decide to try to start it let us know. There is a procedure you should follow to get oil to what has now dried or drained to the oil pan. Don't try turning it over or anything until you let us know you are ready.

I can't remember if your '63 is auto or manual. Best advice I ever got is not to mess with it..especially a automatic. Same for all that stuff in bottles and procedures for flushing any system...it usually dislodges gunk and plugs up filters, etc...causing more damage or problems than you started with.

[63Driver]

I agree with GTOguy. My 63 sat for 20 years before I bought it. I changed every drop of fluid in the car, squirted oil in the cylinders, hand cranked the engine, cranked it with the battery (no plugs). Then installed plugs and poured some gas in the carb after adding fresh gas in the tank. Started right up.

Your car, I would really pay attention to the brake fluid. I would bleed the entire system. Wheel cylinder can really get messy with too much moisture sitting in them.

Good luck.

[SJW]

Originally Posted by 63Driver

I agree with GTOguy. My 63 sat for 20 years before I bought it. I changed every drop of fluid in the car, squirted oil in the cylinders, hand cranked the engine, cranked it with the battery (no plugs). Then installed plugs and poured some gas in the carb after adding fresh gas in the tank. Started right up.

Your car, I would really pay attention to the brake fluid. I would bleed the entire system. Wheel cylinder can really get messy with too much moisture sitting in them.

Good luck.

Welcome aboard, Harry. Nice to see you here.

All good advice above. The only thing I'd add would be that if you find that you need to overhaul the brake system, consider flushing with denatured alcohol and refilling with DOT 5 silicone fluid (I call it The Forever Fluid).

Live well,

SJW

[Youwish2bme aka HITCH]

Was it stored in a climate controlled environment or did it get hot/cold a lot? The reason I ask is that even with non-ethanol fuel if the tank wasn't full you could have a lot of condensation in the fuel? Other than that the guys above have given you great advise.

HITCH