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Old 03-18-2023, 8:12pm   #121
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I really like the way you cleaned and painted the engine compartment.
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Old 03-18-2023, 8:17pm   #122
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I really like the way you cleaned and painted the engine compartment.
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Old 03-18-2023, 9:15pm   #123
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I really like the way you cleaned and painted the engine compartment.
Yeah, the pictures are deceptive...The engine compartment was gunked and power washed once more, just this morning. It's cleaner than it looks.

It'll get detailed better, I'm not going for a frame off restomod here...
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Old 03-18-2023, 10:39pm   #124
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I like your approach. I like this old truck. Excellent thread.
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Old 03-19-2023, 10:39am   #125
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Few more pictures! There's a 59 in the barn too!

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Love!! ❤️❤️😍😍
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Old 03-20-2023, 7:46am   #126
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Ufffff, well had to pull the motor back out then drop it back in again....Wrestled the big blue for another half a day yesterday.....but finally found the sweet spot.

The torque converter was our troubles.....First attempt we bolted it to the flywheel, and tried, but couldn't get that last 1/4"......On our second try, we put the converter into the trans housing then the motor. Now those four bolts that go through the flywheel fought us, until boom they popped into their holes! The motor is completely in, and the motor mount bolts fell right into the slots!

Started on the accessory items but still plenty to go. I'll get some wrenching done on it this week, lots can be done with just one person.

Even closer!!
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Old 03-20-2023, 1:55pm   #127
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I haven't done a motor swap in decades, but as I remember it, it has to go in and out at least once, all the while forcing...hitting...wrestling...swearing...crying...nothing in the way, no logical reason it won't seat, then it slips into place with no effort. And you wonder...wtf..?

Now you have to install the distributor 180 digress out at least twice; can't be finished until you've had a fire ball.
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Old 03-20-2023, 3:57pm   #128
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Ufffff, well had to pull the motor back out then drop it back in again....Wrestled the big blue for another half a day yesterday.....but finally found the sweet spot.

The torque converter was our troubles.....First attempt we bolted it to the flywheel, and tried, but couldn't get that last 1/4"......On our second try, we put the converter into the trans housing then the motor. Now those four bolts that go through the flywheel fought us, until boom they popped into their holes! The motor is completely in, and the motor mount bolts fell right into the slots!

Started on the accessory items but still plenty to go. I'll get some wrenching done on it this week, lots can be done with just one person.

Even closer!!
You never, every, install a torque converter to a flywheel and then try to install the transmission. You need to pre-fill it, and stab it into the transmission while you turn it. It will slide into place THREE different times, going in a hair deeper each time, until it slams home, engaging the pump all the way. When you have the trans bolted to the engine, the converter should have space between it and the flex plate. About 1.8" or so free play, which will close up when you bolt the two together. If it is tight, THE CONVERTER IS NOT SEATED ALL THE WAY INTO THE PUMP AND YOU WILL BURN UP THE TRANS. Unbolt the 3 or 4 converter to flex-plate bolts and verify you have some free-play and can move the converter back and forth. You may not be all the way into the pump.
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Old 03-20-2023, 7:31pm   #129
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I haven't done a motor swap in decades, but as I remember it, it has to go in and out at least once, all the while forcing...hitting...wrestling...swearing...crying...nothing in the way, no logical reason it won't seat, then it slips into place with no effort. And you wonder...wtf..?

Now you have to install the distributor 180 digress out at least twice; can't be finished until you've had a fire ball.

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You never, every, install a torque converter to a flywheel and then try to install the transmission. You need to pre-fill it, and stab it into the transmission while you turn it. It will slide into place THREE different times, going in a hair deeper each time, until it slams home, engaging the pump all the way. When you have the trans bolted to the engine, the converter should have space between it and the flex plate. About 1.8" or so free play, which will close up when you bolt the two together. If it is tight, THE CONVERTER IS NOT SEATED ALL THE WAY INTO THE PUMP AND YOU WILL BURN UP THE TRANS. Unbolt the 3 or 4 converter to flex-plate bolts and verify you have some free-play and can move the converter back and forth. You may not be all the way into the pump.
We got there....In my defense...the converter came out, with the motor. So, I tried to follow that in reverse. When I seated the converter into the housing it went all the way in. A little shake in the trans housing and one last push, boom it slid right into place.

I did over look one more choke tube broken off,...... but it goes straight down into the manifold so easily accessed to drill it out.

Baby steps....
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Old 03-21-2023, 11:35am   #130
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Be advised also that the choke tubes sometimes only carry only heat, not exhaust gas. They press into a sleeve in the exhaust manifold that is sealed from the gas in the manifold. The sleeves like to rust out, along with the choke tube, and those who don't realize replace the tube, sticking it right into the manifold. This allows exhaust condensation and carbon to enter the choke T stat, causing pre-mature failure. You can restrict the end of the tube or pack some steel wool in the tube securely or whatever. I would verify with the factory manual. They all differ. The one on my '61 Corvette goes all the way through the manifold and out the bottom. Weird, but it works just fine. Some tubes DO go right into the exhaust, and IIRC, Fords may be what I remember. I remember a LOT of carboned up FoMoCo chokes!Click image for larger version

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Old 03-23-2023, 10:11am   #131
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Be advised also that the choke tubes sometimes only carry only heat, not exhaust gas. They press into a sleeve in the exhaust manifold that is sealed from the gas in the manifold. The sleeves like to rust out, along with the choke tube, and those who don't realize replace the tube, sticking it right into the manifold. This allows exhaust condensation and carbon to enter the choke T stat, causing pre-mature failure. You can restrict the end of the tube or pack some steel wool in the tube securely or whatever. I would verify with the factory manual. They all differ. The one on my '61 Corvette goes all the way through the manifold and out the bottom. Weird, but it works just fine. Some tubes DO go right into the exhaust, and IIRC, Fords may be what I remember. I remember a LOT of carboned up FoMoCo chokes!
The one on my 1967 289 Ford pulls air from the air filter housing, through a passage in the manifold that does not connect to exahust gas, then to the choke housing. Filtered air for the choke.
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Old 03-23-2023, 11:22am   #132
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Fords were really creative. Our '64 Galaxie withe the 352 was similar, only it had a heater hose bracket fastened to the choke housing has well which pressed the heater hose to the choke housing for better operation. Belt AND suspenders, I guess! My point was for our bald and sarcastic friend to verify no actual exhaust was flowing into his choke housing.
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Old 03-23-2023, 11:49am   #133
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Moving along pretty well! Transmission and related all buttoned up. Exhaust system all back together. All the wiring is reconnected, ran a new ground cable.

When we were pulling the motor out we snapped off the reservoir hose tube… Now, to replace the pump reservoir (or the pump itself), you have to remove the pulley…. One more new tool in the box…. Pulley puller! Tool was 69. A new pump is 59.00! Just the reservoir was 50 with shipping…All done with new o rings!

Rainy here today can’t play outside…..
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Old 03-23-2023, 12:05pm   #134
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Rebuilding the original pump with new O rings is 100% better than going the 'reman' route. That pump will likely outlast us now. For a guy with a comb-over and a barbed tongue, you're ok.
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Old 03-23-2023, 12:33pm   #135
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Rebuilding the original pump with new O rings is 100% better than going the 'reman' route. That pump will likely outlast us now. For a guy with a comb-over and a barbed tongue, you're ok.

DJ said it first, but you can keep that homo shit to STS and Zeek!



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Old 03-23-2023, 1:19pm   #136
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I like that puller, i have a decent one but always looking for a better one
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Old 03-23-2023, 2:14pm   #137
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DJ said it first, but you can keep that homo shit to STS and Zeek!



So you're saying Zeek is gay?

That's not very nice.
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Old 03-23-2023, 2:34pm   #138
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So you're saying Zeek is gay?

That's not very nice.
Well, what’s not nice, is your inference that being gay is not nice or gays are not nice….
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Old 03-23-2023, 2:48pm   #139
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Well, what’s not nice, is your inference that being gay is not nice or gays are not nice….
From 1972 to 2016 I was fine with gays. (from 1961 to 1972 I'd never heard of them----sheltered I guess)

But, with the insidious gay agenda being forced down my throat for the past several years, I am out of patience with the whole thing. So it is what it is. There are a LOT of things and people and ideas that I used to not care one way or the other about that I now see as an insidious agenda that goes against my moral and ethical code of conduct.
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Old 03-23-2023, 3:21pm   #140
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From 1972 to 2016 I was fine with gays. (from 1961 to 1972 I'd never heard of them----sheltered I guess)

But, with the insidious gay agenda being forced down my throat for the past several years, I am out of patience with the whole thing. So it is what it is. There are a LOT of things and people and ideas that I used to not care one way or the other about that I now see as an insidious agenda that goes against my moral and ethical code of conduct.
Excellent post.
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