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12-04-2012, 1:53pm | #1 | ||||||
Barn Stall Owner #1
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Property Fencing Ideas
I'm going to have to fence about 300' of my property, but I'm in a quandry: Originally, I was going to get vinyl fencing. My reasoning is that vinyl...generally speaking...looks as good in 15 years as the day it is put up. It's basically maintenance free, and since I'm planning on staying in my home for quite a few years, I could justify the increased cost.
As of late, I've been thinking about that cost and it is HUGE. A vinyl panel measuring 6' high by 8' long is well in excess of $120. Conservatively I'm looking at an $9000 fence, and I just can't get my head around that number. Several people at work have mentioned doing a cedar fence, staining it and then hitting it with Thompson's Water Seal once a year. Opinions? For those of you who have put up fencing (wood or vinyl), can I get input and ideas? TIA |
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12-04-2012, 1:57pm | #2 | ||||||
A Real Barner
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I hate the look of vinyl. Looks cheap.
We fenced off the back of our place last summer. They'll be some upkeep, but I think it's worth it. |
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12-04-2012, 2:02pm | #3 | ||||||
Chief Electrician
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EVERYONE in my area and beyond has cedar. Usually lasts 10 - 15 years or so before it is completely shot. Sprinklers hitting it will cause a shorter life from the drying and wetting cycles. I know some neighborhoods around be have Hardi-plank perimeter fenses. Not sure of the cost. Looks like wood panels.
Hardi .... |
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12-04-2012, 2:06pm | #4 | ||||||
Sparkles Flambeaux
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how big an area do you really need (not want) to enclose. place for the doggies to do their business? running cattle?
split rail and hog wire? chain link? barbed wire? c'mon, work some OT and write a check. |
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12-04-2012, 2:22pm | #5 | ||||||
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Our pressure treated wood fence has been in place for at least 25 years, and it's still standing. Never refinished, and just a little maintenance in the spring from snow and wind damage. It's a little beat up now, but that's not bad considering the age. 4x4 posts in concrete with removable (if needed) eight foot sections on joist hangers, and there's about 300 ft in the back yard, with 4 gates. I forget the cost back then?
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12-04-2012, 2:25pm | #6 | |||||||
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12-04-2012, 2:43pm | #7 | |||||||
Barn Stall Owner #1
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I just like my property enclosed, not just for dogs. And yeah...I'm already on the OT trail. |
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12-04-2012, 2:51pm | #8 | |||||||
A Real Barner
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I like the look of that. Can I get it in a 12-foot height?
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12-04-2012, 2:53pm | #9 | ||||||
Mirroredskirts
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Cedar doesn't need to be treated.
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12-04-2012, 2:58pm | #10 | ||||||
Sparkles Flambeaux
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sounds like you know what you want, but you don't like the quoted price.
plan B: since you plan to be there a long time, just work on it a bit at a time, and in time, it'll be awesome. here are some plans you can submit to the HOA: |
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12-04-2012, 2:59pm | #11 | ||||||
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12-04-2012, 3:03pm | #12 | ||||||
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Shoot a neighbor and their cat, put their heads on a stick every few yards. Problem solved.
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12-04-2012, 3:04pm | #13 | ||||||
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Just do pine and use a rot board on the bottom, stain the fence if the color really bothers you that much.
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12-04-2012, 3:06pm | #14 | ||||||
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12-04-2012, 3:15pm | #15 | |||||||
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12-04-2012, 3:17pm | #16 | ||||||
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Property fencing is a potentially lucrative business. I don't recommend it for just anyone, but Iron Chef, you seem to be a fairly tough, no-nonsense kind of guy who IMHO has expressed a genuine, sincere desire to learn more, so I'll share a little bit of my knowledge on the subject.
First and foremost: Location, Location, Location. You want to make sure you meet your "suppliers" in an area that offers several escape paths, for both vehicular and foot pursuits. You definitely dont want to "set up shop" in a dead-end neighborhood or on a street with a cul-de-sac, if you know what I mean. There should be plenty of natural shade and camouflage to shield your hand-to-hand transactions from the wary eyes of your law-abiding neighbors with itchy telephone dialing fingers. Also, avoid both the very best and the very worst neighborhoods. You don't want to be looked down upon by the folks who live near you when you're just out there trying to make a living, amiright? And at the same time you don't want the stuff you've been acquiring to be trickling out of your hands like so much urine from a leaky Depends diaper. A pull-through scenario is ideal; however, a pull-in-pull-out situation such as a two-car garage where you can close the door while you pick up stolen items and quickly deposit them out of site can work well, too. Storage is also a factor. You'll want to collect the goods over a few weeks, then deliver them to your fence "wholesaler" in a series of individual large-scale operations (preferably under cover of darkness). Many items such as copper, aluminum, iron and steel can be left outside for extended periods, but you'll also want to have plenty of space for anything that you wouldn't want to get wet. In particular, sensitive electronics items such as GPS units, smart phones, laptops, and even small trailerable vehicles such as jet skis can be equipped with theft-recovery software and hardware devices. Powering them off can't be relied upon to keep them from ratting out your location to the local authorities; it's better to remove their batteries entirely or keep them inside a metal enclosure of some sort. Be sure to label the batteries and their accessories such as charging devices, keeping them from getting separated (and significantly reducing their cash value) when you ultimately fence them for cash. Last but certainly not least, don't get lulled into a false sense of security and stay in one place too long. It used to be that six to eight months was fairly safe, but in these desperate times, it's best if you keep moving. Make sure your suppliers have your backup cell number so that you can alert them to sudden midnight movement of your entire operation. Good luck! Last edited by Sea Six; 12-04-2012 at 3:29pm. |
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12-04-2012, 3:30pm | #17 | ||||||
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12-04-2012, 6:22pm | #18 | ||||||
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Chef, although you said "no pine", please hear me out: My fence was built for horses and, like you, for enclosure. I had to run over a mile of fence, so cost was important. I used 4 x 4 PTP posts for the fence and 4" x 6" posts at the gates. The rails are 5/4" x 16' prime PTP pine ("prime" because thaere are no knots to fall out,and they don't warp as much). 3-rail fence is about 60" high.
Now here's what makes if different from an ordinary pine fence: The fence is black. "Painting" it is simple, althogh messy. Buy 5-gal. drums of Gardner petroleum (not water based) asphalt driveway sealer, thin it 25% with gasoline, and spray the fence with a good-quality garden sprayer. Ace Hardware sells a good petroleum-based sealer, too. You will throw away the sprayer after you're finished, but you need a good one. How to paint: After the fence has dried for a few weeks, pick a calm day (no wind). Mix the sealer and gasoline, pour it into the sprayer, and start spraying. Spray one side of the posts and one side of each fence rail; spray only an 8' section. Then give it a second coat. Do not paint the underside edge of the rails; the wood needs to breathe. The sealer does just that to the wood: It beads water. Repeat on the other side after you've done a long section. The sealer will stay black for 8-10 years. Asphalt sealer is cheap, so it's not a huge expense. I forget how many feet of fence you can paint with 5 gals., but it's considerable. This fence, and the sealer, is exactly what is used in Virginia horse country, and it's very sophisticated looking. I don't like white vinyl fencing because it looks like what it is: Plastic. You can get it in baby-shit brown, but not black because it fades quickly. My fence does not. It's dark here, so I can't take pics. If you're interested I'll post some. |
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12-04-2012, 6:27pm | #19 | |||||||
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12-04-2012, 6:34pm | #20 | ||||||
Sparkles Flambeaux
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