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Old 03-12-2024, 9:50pm   #21
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Well hope someone wants to buy it. Realizing a shit ton of original parts went MIA some time while DUB had the car or after he died.

Now we can’t figure out how to get the freaking steering column in. Even with the new bracket, the upper bracket is not lining up at all on the right side so no telling how much he changed out!

Cannot even find the upper mount that attaches to the dash. I have the item number form the AIM and cannot find it.

Is there any way to rig up some kind of bracket to make my 68 work with the later upper mounting bracket?

The correct bracket is where the arrow is. This is from someone else’s 68. You can see how much wider the other bracket is.

Attachment 98358

Attachment 98359
This is what I have on my car, mine is 68. This one is date stated. Just not sure if rag joint and other parts were changed as well. Hoping someone can tell me.


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Old 03-13-2024, 9:30am   #22
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Can’t tell from your video if the windshield is completely installed, but it’s a whole hell of a lot easier to work on the dashboard dash pad area with the windshield out
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Old 03-13-2024, 9:38am   #23
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Can’t tell from your video if the windshield is completely installed, but it’s a whole hell of a lot easier to work on the dashboard dash pad area with the windshield out
It’s all in.


Until we get this steering BS taken care of, we cannot move forward.

I really need someone with intimate knowledge of the 77 steering column upgrades from 68 to know best path forward. Seems there are many differences including electrical so hoping to just get stock back in there, but seems many things had to be changed to get the 77 in there.
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Old 03-13-2024, 10:11am   #24
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This is the part we need or need to somehow make the current one work.


Attachment 98360
Are you pointing at the cast iron upper mount? If so I believe I have one in the shop. I bought it when I though I would replace the steering wheel with an original '68 column. The cost and effort to restore convinced me to go with the Flaming River and use to steel mounts from the later model.

There is a guy on CF that has piles of hard to find parts and fortunately he's about a 30 minute drive from me. I'll see if I can find his contact info.
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Old 03-13-2024, 10:27am   #25
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When you posted the lower mount photo I was thinking, "I hope she has the upper mount too"

I think I gave $50 for them. I'll blast the black paint off if you are going for originality.
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Old 03-13-2024, 10:28am   #26
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It’s all in.


Until we get this steering BS taken care of, we cannot move forward.

I really need someone with intimate knowledge of the 77 steering column upgrades from 68 to know best path forward. Seems there are many differences including electrical so hoping to just get stock back in there, but seems many things had to be changed to get the 77 in there.
Hmmm, I’d go backwards to move forward…. Me, I’d take the windshield out…. Just the dash-pad alone is Sooo much easier…clips along the leading edge can be a bitch. Of course the wiring is WAY easier too. You should be able to move ahead without the column completely installed too.
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Old 03-13-2024, 10:33am   #27
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Maybe give these guys a call to see if they have the part

[url/]https://www.corvettesalvage.com/product/c3-steering-column-rebuilding-service-1968-1982[/url]

You probably have already looked at this document

[url/]http://jimshea.corvettefaq.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/09/67-68-Corvette-Std-Strg-Column-DR2-Rev03SE20121.pdf[/url]
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Old 03-13-2024, 10:41am   #28
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It’s all in.


Until we get this steering BS taken care of, we cannot move forward.

I really need someone with intimate knowledge of the 77 steering column upgrades from 68 to know best path forward. Seems there are many differences including electrical so hoping to just get stock back in there, but seems many things had to be changed to get the 77 in there.
I missed your last couple of posts. For the harmonica connector, use whichever one ('68 or '77) has both ends and splice it into the harness (or the column if you have the '77). The later upper mounts were stamped steel which is what I used for weight reduction. I guess they were still cast in '72 but have the wider bolt spread.

For the rag joint, you'll need to be aware of the spline count and if it has a D shaft. If your steering gear was changed you might have to buy 2, one of each that has the right configuration. They should mate up fine at the rag.

I feel your pain. I went through this a few years ago but there is a solution for everything.
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Old 03-13-2024, 10:47am   #29
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Hmmm, I’d go backwards to move forward…. Me, I’d take the windshield out…. Just the dash-pad alone is Sooo much easier…clips along the leading edge can be a bitch. Of course the wiring is WAY easier too. You should be able to move ahead without the column completely installed too.
100%.

If it is new glass it is probably set too deep anyway and they'll be a gap between the windshield and the trim. You'll need the thicker tape and maybe some extra sealant to get the glass height set correctly. The wire and suction cups to pull the glass can be bought at Horror Freight cheap.
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Old 03-13-2024, 11:36am   #30
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It’s ALL Out! We are so far in the hole in this, going to get it back together as affordable as possible. I paid DUB to complete the car…. And I have this….

https://youtu.be/x6Nh1SnRNXY?si=AQq1pAkLrgQHZJDa
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Old 03-13-2024, 9:08pm   #31
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When you posted the lower mount photo I was thinking, "I hope she has the upper mount too"

I think I gave $50 for them. I'll blast the black paint off if you are going for originality.


No way! That’s exactly what I need! I have a sand blaster,
Not worried about originality. Sold! I’ll DM you and we can work out payment shipping!

Thank you!
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Old 03-13-2024, 9:16pm   #32
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I swear. As soon as I watched the video I was pissed. I know better but I forget.

Thanks for the reminder that I’m a dumb ass. 😝🤓
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Old 03-13-2024, 9:23pm   #33
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[quote=C3C7NIC;2231508]
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You paid for a full restoration and got that? That’s borderline criminal. Can you go after his estate for compensation?

According to his widow it’s tied up legally and I’m not the only one. 😡 would probably cost more in attorney fees than it’s worth and in NC so I’m fuqqed.
You're still the MAN. Boo!
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Old 03-13-2024, 9:26pm   #34
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Can’t tell from your video if the windshield is completely installed, but it’s a whole hell of a lot easier to work on the dashboard dash pad area with the windshield out
What is the best way to see if the height is correct? I really don’t want to remove it unless absolutely essential.

Hoping to turn a corner of putting some parts on vs taking them off at some point.
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Old 03-13-2024, 9:26pm   #35
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[quote=Hardluck;2231971]
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You're still the MAN. Boo!
Aww, thank…… wait, WHAT?


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Old 03-13-2024, 9:41pm   #36
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[quote=Hardluck;2231971]
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You're still the MAN. Boo!
.
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Old 03-14-2024, 6:57am   #37
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What is the best way to see if the height is correct? I really don’t want to remove it unless absolutely essential.

Hoping to turn a corner of putting some parts on vs taking them off at some point.
The exterior chrome "A" pillar trim and header trim has to go on to see if the glass is set properly.

It's not "essential" BUT the ease of access will save hours and hours of frustration and time! Lots of laying on your back (oh baby) ahead of you anyway but this saves so much time it is worth pulling out and reinstalling IMO....

There's a saying that it takes three times installing/removing just one part to get it right.... on these cars....I know you want to get to the end but....
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Old 03-14-2024, 9:28am   #38
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[quote=Steve_R;2231981]
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.
Nobody axed you, Nightlight!
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Old 03-14-2024, 7:39pm   #39
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What is the best way to see if the height is correct? I really don’t want to remove it unless absolutely essential.

Hoping to turn a corner of putting some parts on vs taking them off at some point.
If the clips which hold the chrome trim were not installed on the w/s frame BEFORE the glass went in you'll be taking the glass back out to install those anyway since it is not possible to do with the glass in. There are also "setting blocks" (small rubber cubes) available to fine tune glass height before the glue goes in. They go under the glass during dry fit so you can customize the glass height in the opening.
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Old 03-14-2024, 9:32pm   #40
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If the clips which hold the chrome trim were not installed on the w/s frame BEFORE the glass went in you'll be taking the glass back out to install those anyway since it is not possible to do with the glass in. There are also "setting blocks" (small rubber cubes) available to fine tune glass height before the glue goes in. They go under the glass during dry fit so you can customize the glass height in the opening.
Guess I need to take a look. Thought getting the dash in was doable with windshield in (better on a hot day). Guess I have to research more.
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