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Old 03-13-2012, 8:04pm   #21
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Originally Posted by NB2K View Post
Pays for itself pretty dang fast!
How long does it take you to load, say, 100 rounds?

The effort to save the brass plus time spent reloading to save $0.07 (9mm) to $0.15 (.40) per round for me seems hard to justify.
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Old 03-13-2012, 9:02pm   #22
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How long does it take you to load, say, 100 rounds?

The effort to save the brass plus time spent reloading to save $0.07 (9mm) to $0.15 (.40) per round for me seems hard to justify.
I can do 100 rounds of .357 or .44 mag in a couple hours. Plus those boxes of .44 mag ( with copper clad bullets ) only cost about $5-$6 a box of 50.

Even more importantly, if I have the components here, I can reload. I don't have to worry about a store having them or "somebody" with holding shipments.
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Old 03-13-2012, 11:51pm   #23
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Jeff,

How much does it cost to get started from scratch? Say, 9mm to start.
If you start with a RCBS Supreme Master Reloading kit ($289-$339, depending on source), buy some components and one set of dies and shell holder ($55), you're in about $450 (powder = ~$30/lb, primers = ~$4/100, bullets = ~$25/100, brass = ~$50/100 unless you pick up range cast-offs, which I do if I'm sure they're once-fired).

Now my set-up has an RCBS Rockchucker press for precision rifle reloading (I load .223, .25-06, 6.5x55 SE, .280 Rem, .308 Win, .30-06 Sprg and am about to get a 9.3x62 (.366 caliber...slightly lighter than a .375 H&H Magnum...useful for Moose and the Great Bears) and a RCBS Turret press for handgun (.38 Spl, .357 Mag, .40 Small&Weak, .44 Spl, .44 Rem Mag, .45 ACP, .45 Colt), I stock about 10 different powders, 5 kinds of primers, a whole bunch of brass and various tools to make it all work smoothly. I've been reloading since 1978 so my workshop has grown slowly and my costs are heavily biased to 1978-81 prices (this shit lasts forever).

"Why reload?" I hear you cry. The below pic, showing a 100 yard target showing 3 shots, is why:



This is one of my standard match loads for my Savage .30-06...I was grabbing some practice time on Sunday. Hand loads tailored to your guns and needs either reduces costs (I reload for an average of $0.38/round for rifle or $7.60/box compared to retail match ammo at $2.00/round or $40/box and I average 10 loadings/case) or increases your shooting per buck. I can make more accurate ammo than I can buy...some days I don't know if I reload to shoot or shoot to reload. I do know, however, I can hit what I shoot at out to 600 yards.



ryHar

Last edited by Flatbush Harry; 03-14-2012 at 12:05am.
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Old 03-13-2012, 11:58pm   #24
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Originally Posted by Chris Fowler View Post
How long does it take you to load, say, 100 rounds?

The effort to save the brass plus time spent reloading to save $0.07 (9mm) to $0.15 (.40) per round for me seems hard to justify.
With my set up they say you can do 200-250 per hour...

But if you shoot a lot...it's worth it.
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Old 02-13-2013, 9:42pm   #25
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Ya, they're flat. I fingered 'em before I canned 'em.
Ok, so where's the pistol loading thread?
Right here
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Old 02-13-2013, 9:46pm   #26
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Right here
Oh, thanks ! I thought that I had copied that one a while back, but I got the rifle one.. Now I have both...
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Old 02-13-2013, 9:48pm   #27
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Oh, thanks ! I thought that I had copied that one a while back, but I got the rifle one.. Now I have both...
I put both links in one of your threads where you were gathering reloading equipment last month
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Old 02-13-2013, 9:55pm   #28
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I put both links in one of your threads where you were gathering reloading equipment last month
I added the rifle to "my favorite bookmarks" back then, but neglected to bookmark the pistol one, for whatever reason. I got 'em...
I'm going to have my neighbor over to check my set up on my seating die, and tutor me on powder measuring, when the time comes.
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Old 02-13-2013, 10:05pm   #29
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I added the rifle to "my favorite bookmarks" back then, but neglected to bookmark the pistol one, for whatever reason. I got 'em...
I'm going to have my neighbor over to check my set up on my seating die, and tutor me on powder measuring, when the time comes.
The bell/flaring die set up is important too.
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Old 02-13-2013, 10:06pm   #30
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The bell/flaring die set up is important too.
Ya, the powder goes through that, so he'll be there for my first set up...
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Old 02-13-2013, 10:16pm   #31
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Damn Jeff, now I have to blow the dust off of my reloading bench and crank out some rounds

Great tutorial!
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Old 02-13-2013, 10:18pm   #32
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Damn Jeff, now I have to blow the dust off of my reloading bench and crank out some rounds

Great tutorial!
Rifle ammo too
https://www.thevettebarn.com/forums/o...ifle-ammo.html
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Old 02-13-2013, 10:48pm   #33
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I use a Rock Chucker for all of my rifle loads as well

Need to load up a few thousand .223's
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Old 02-16-2013, 8:40am   #34
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Jeff. I got to thinking about checking for rocking after you said to, so I went back and checked all of them on a flat surface. I'd say that I had 20% of the .38's that did rock on a flat surface. All of the 9mm was fine. It looks like the finger test just isn't accurate.
Thanks for that tip. That could have saved me some real problems down the road......

Now I'm setting up for flaring and crimping. I'll use unprimed cases with no powder to set the depth. Any recommendations for proper bullet depth setup? I have done 2 so far, and I'm just not sure that they are correct. I'm going to give my neighbor a call, and have him walk me through it, and check my set-ups.
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Old 02-16-2013, 7:52pm   #35
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Jeff. I got to thinking about checking for rocking after you said to, so I went back and checked all of them on a flat surface. I'd say that I had 20% of the .38's that did rock on a flat surface. All of the 9mm was fine. It looks like the finger test just isn't accurate.
Thanks for that tip. That could have saved me some real problems down the road......
Good thing you caught that, it may have caused/contributed to a slam fire.

The finger test can be accurate with practice. Maybe you need your finger calibrated


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Originally Posted by Jeff '79 View Post
Now I'm setting up for flaring and crimping. I'll use unprimed cases with no powder to set the depth. Any recommendations for proper bullet depth setup? I have done 2 so far, and I'm just not sure that they are correct. I'm going to give my neighbor a call, and have him walk me through it, and check my set-ups.
What does your reloading manual say? ( I always check multiple manuals to make sure there aren't misprints)
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Old 02-16-2013, 8:02pm   #36
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Good thing you caught that, it may have caused/contributed to a slam fire.

The finger test can be accurate with practice. Maybe you need your finger calibrated




What does your reloading manual say? ( I always check multiple manuals to make sure there aren't misprints)
John came up this afternoon and set me straight.
He inspected my primed cases, and tootled me on the finer points of set up. My main question was max length and min length... I know max for 9mm is 1.169", and I'm ok there, but the minimum is what I was concerned about. He showed me the deal, and I'm about to test seat some empties,(no powder).
Are there any internet manuals? I have two books, but as you say, the more the merrier.
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Old 02-16-2013, 8:09pm   #37
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John came up this afternoon and set me straight.
He inspected my primed cases, and tootled me on the finer points of set up. My main question was max length and min length... I know max for 9mm is 1.169", and I'm ok there, but the minimum is what I was concerned about. He showed me the deal, and I'm about to test seat some empties,(no powder).
Are there any internet manuals? I have two books, but as you say, the more the merrier.
http://www.hodgdon.com/PDF/Hodgdon%20Basic%20Manual.pdf

better version
http://data.hodgdon.com/main_menu.asp

Just check checking around, flea markets, book stores. Check out ebay
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Old 01-05-2021, 8:22pm   #38
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Bump for 2021
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Old 01-05-2021, 9:23pm   #39
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I use a Lee 4 position turret press.

Case prep makes such a difference.
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Old 01-06-2021, 3:16am   #40
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Rock Chucker Bullet Swage........used to have all the gear from .38 through 30-06 been about 1/2 a century though.......
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