What's Wrong with My Toaster?

[DJ_Critterus]

Originally Posted by Bill

I'm thinking since it's so old, maybe it needs to be rewired for 220.....the old gal may need a little extra juice to get going.

You should ask Yaddy for help on that one, then, but the cord will probably be 1/8" too short

[Aerovette]

Originally Posted by Bill

^^^^ This guy electricians!



Can I run it by there and have you bench test it for me?

My rate is based on my level of expertise so I'd like to know how much I'll owe you before you bring it by.

[PLRX]

Originally Posted by DJ_Critterus

You should ask Yaddy for help on that one, then, but the cord will probably be 1/8" too short

Damn, why not make it a 1/120"

[GTOguy]

Originally Posted by Bill

You want non political topics in OT? Well, here you are, right here.....antique toaster repair. And so far, I haven't received any serious diagnosing help.

When did I ever say I wanted non-political topics in OT? I've NEVER said that. Just the opposite. I think we should be able to discuss ANYTHING in OT and those who have issue with it need to get over themselves.

[theandies]

Originally Posted by Moond0ggie

Reboot the toaster & see if it passes all the self test startup processes ,
then log into the Admin menu & go to 'Diagnostics' & check the error journal
for the last error report .

You may need to perform the 'Factory Reset' procedure & then re-link it to your
smart phone & then perform the set up configuration process to re-enter your saved settings .

That doesn't work unless you root it first.

[Aerovette]

Originally Posted by Bill

You want non political topics in OT? Well, here you are, right here.....antique toaster repair. And so far, I haven't received any serious diagnosing help.

Ok, serious answer. WWAD?

I would take the outermost cover off so I can get to the element.

Using a meter, check continuity from one end of the element, to the other end. If no continuity, element is trash and you need a new toaster.

If there is continuity, move to the switch/lever, or whatever it is that determines if it is off or on. Most likely depress the lever that would start toasting. check continuity from the power side of the switch, to to load side of the switch. If this, and the element have continuity, check from the plug end, to the switch on both conductors. If you have continuity through all of these points, then the only thing left is the thermal or timer portion of the circuit. At this point, I'd toss it if you have continuity everywhere.

[theandies]

Tell you what. Send me the $275 toaster as I know my way around electricity and have a FLUKE 87 multimeter. I also work on semiconductor furnaces so I know my way around an electrical heater.
I'll fix it for you then tell you it's "toast" (see what I did there) after I fix it and then I'LL have a $275 toaster.
Deal?

[DJ_Critterus]

Originally Posted by PLRX

Damn, why not make it a 1/120"

He only works in increments of 1/8ths... likely due to only having a 1/8th grade education

[DJ_Critterus]

Originally Posted by Aerovette

Ok, serious answer. WWAD?

I would take the outermost cover off so I can get to the element.

Using a meter, check continuity from one end of the element, to the other end. If no continuity, element is trash and you need a new toaster.

If there is continuity, move to the switch/lever, or whatever it is that determines if it is off or on. Most likely depress the lever that would start toasting. check continuity from the power side of the switch, to to load side of the switch. If this, and the element have continuity, check from the plug end, to the switch on both conductors. If you have continuity through all of these points, then the only thing left is the thermal or timer portion of the circuit. At this point, I'd toss it if you have continuity everywhere.

Maybe he should go check the circuit breaker or press the GFI reset button on the outlet connected to that circuit he plugged into

[dvarapala]

Originally Posted by Bill

I haven't used it in years, got it out, plugged it in, and.....nothing.

It's designed that the weight of the bread slowly lowers the bread holder and bread slices into the toaster, then it toasts, and when finished, slowly and automatically rises again.

The mechanism might be jammed - try sticking a bread knife into the slots to free it up.

Got anything good to sell?

[Bill]

Originally Posted by DJ_Critterus

Maybe he should go check the circuit breaker or press the GFI reset button on the outlet connected to that circuit he plugged into

I tried several plugs, and even reversing the plug in the socket, as this is pre-two different sized prongs equipment we're dealing with. Tried pushing the bread down and holding it there.....nothing. And yes, the plugs work.

[Aerovette]

Originally Posted by Bill

I tried several plugs, and even reversing the plug in the socket, as this is pre-two different sized prongs equipment we're dealing with. Tried pushing the bread down and holding it there.....nothing. And yes, the plugs work.

My wife hated that. Oh, I thought it said "broad".

[DJ_Critterus]

Originally Posted by Aerovette

My wife hated that. Oh, I thought it said "broad".

Ohh...some Dutch Toaster Oven action going on at the Aero house, huh?

[Aerovette]

Originally Posted by DJ_Critterus

Ohh...some Dutch Toaster Oven action going on at the Aero house, huh?

Not anymore.

[Don Rickles]

Two or four slice……./

[CurtP]

Originally Posted by Bill

I haven't used it in years, got it out, plugged it in, and.....nothing.

It's designed that the weight of the bread slowly lowers the bread holder and bread slices into the toaster, then it toasts, and when finished, slowly and automatically rises again. Pretty high tech, really.

It's a T-35 model. I'd like to have it serviced, but I'm not sure who would work on something this old. Looks like this (stock image, not mine):

Couple things, and my apologies if this sounds condescending. Were you putting a slice of bread on the side with the trip mechanism? It will be marked on the top by the slot. If so, is the trip bail all the way up? How about the bread lift? If the lift is not raising all the way up and/or the trip bail is not resetting, there is an adjustment screw under the crumb tray that will add tension to the lift and trip bail. Hopefully nothing is broke in the lifting mechanism.

Don’t throw it away. You won’t find a better toaster. Mine is a T-20B from the 1950s. Still works great.

http://www.automaticbeyondbelief.org/index.htm
Look under “fixing your toaster”.

[Aerovette]

If the above doesn't work, there's another option...

[Bruze]

Billy, it's time for "The Final Solution":

[Bill]

Originally Posted by CurtP

Couple things, and my apologies if this sounds condescending. Were you putting a slice of bread on the side with the trip mechanism? It will be marked on the top by the slot. If so, is the trip bail all the way up? How about the bread lift? If the lift is not raising all the way up and/or the trip bail is not resetting, there is an adjustment screw under the crumb tray that will add tension to the lift and trip bail. Hopefully nothing is broke in the lifting mechanism.

Don’t throw it away. You won’t find a better toaster. Mine is a T-20B from the 1950s. Still works great.

http://www.automaticbeyondbelief.org/index.htm
Look under “fixing your toaster”.

I did use two pieces of bread, and the 'elevator' springs seem to be functional. When the bread didn't automatically sink into the toaster, I pushed both slices into the toaster by hand, even held them there. As soon as I let up, the spring action popped both pieces of bread up, so the lifting mechanism seems to be working fine, I'm just not getting any love on having it work. Will check out your link, thanks!

[CurtP]

It has to lift high enough to reset the mechanism. The bail should come up enough to latch the lift mechanism. On the non-bail side, you shouldn’t be able to push the bread lift down. You may be able to turn the toaster upside down to net everything to reset. If successful, you should get once cycle out of it. Adjusting the pretension will fix that condition.