💟Final resto 1968 BB💟

[C3C7NIC]

[QUOTE=LATB;2231151]Pics please.

This was her before the restoration started 7 years ago, drivable but leaked like crazy and needed a ton of interior/body work, when we pulled the trigger on frame off restoration. Had no idea what we were in for time/money etc. LOL


I pray the finish line is in sight.

[RMVette]

Originally Posted by Steve_R

There’s nothing wrong with a Quadrajet carb if it’s set up properly. Just have to find someone (probably old) who knows how to do that.

Agreed, they're great carbs!

I have an MSD distributor with the tach drive which made life a lot simpler for no points.

[Kevin68]

Steering column
Wiper tray
Suspension
Interior
Carbs and ignition
Frame extensions (CFC3)

If I may: I recommend picking a system, plowing through to completion, then move on to the next. Slow down. No human can concentrate on that many projects and do a good job unless you know exactly what you are doing. You and your husband work full time (I assume). Without having done this before and from the pics you've posted, you've got 6-12 months of working weekends if you intend to put this car together correctly.

Not trying to discourage at all. On the contrary, I'm trying to get you to focus. I think you started one of these threads with "how to eat an elephant?" Staying with that image, you need to swallow each bite before the next fork full.

This is completely doable. We can get you though each step with our collective experience, but it might be asking too much to coach you through 6 steps at a time.

[C3C7NIC]

Originally Posted by Kevin68

Steering column
Wiper tray
Suspension
Interior
Carbs and ignition
Frame extensions (CFC3)

If I may: I recommend picking a system, plowing through to completion, then move on to the next. Slow down. No human can concentrate on that many projects and do a good job unless you know exactly what you are doing. You and your husband work full time (I assume). Without having done this before and from the pics you've posted, you've got 6-12 months of working weekends if you intend to put this car together correctly.

Not trying to discourage at all. On the contrary, I'm trying to get you to focus. I think you started one of these threads with "how to eat an elephant?" Staying with that image, you need to swallow each bite before the next fork full.

This is completely doable. We can get you though each step with our collective experience, but it might be asking too much to coach you through 6 steps at a time.

Agree. 🥴

Yes, we work FT, me 12 hour shifts. We are working on the car every night and also on weekends.

In an attempt to knock out one thing at a time we find something that needs addressing to progress on the first.

Could not do dynamat/heat barrier till column corrected/removed, cannot deal with console/install etc until engine carb decisions made to run correct stuff to gauges, cannot install bumpers till parts found oh, by the way, suspension parts fell off while moving the car because parts were missing. Was told had to address that ASAP. 🤪

You are 1000% right, but hard to knock out one thing, with my level of ignorance, feeling we might affect another and the exact order to do things is lost on me. Clearly DUB had several modifications/projects simultaneously, and that has provided added confusion.

Paint still needs to be cut/ buffed so recommended not to put lights etc on till that is done, but how do we check wiring if lights not installed?

Wish we could get a clear cut order of how to proceed that will avoid too
much backtracking.

As of right now, this is my to do list:

Paint finish cut/buff. Lots of runs down low, upper car down to about 2000 grit.

Sway bar parts missing )should be easy fix I hope)

All interior (other than dynamat/insulation/ finished that tonight. Still need firewall insulation.

All interior/dash/console/ most original wiring there vintage air needs to be installed (vents) electrical hooked up

Headlights and front frame extension needs to go in.

Wiper motor/wiper door actuator (everything in cowl needs installed)

Doors (empty) all in needs need to be installed)

Hood/decklid (all parts on just needs installed)

All exterior lights.

Bumpers/trim/etc

Convertible top (have new top, needs to be installed)

Some order of things is obvious while others I’m not clear on.

I know I’m overwhelmed and truly need very specific direction.

[Kevin68]

I understand the whole "one thing leads to another thing."

Cliffs: Stop assembling, get organized.

Without knowing where progress stopped, it's hard to advise. I'd start with the easy stuff that isn't really dependent on coordination between systems. For instance, the doors. Or the wiper tray (assuming you're committed to keeping the windshield in). Suspension.

What I'm going to suggest next is not satisfying work at all, but I promise it will help you get your head wrapped around what you need to do and in what order. I believe the pages in the AIM are in the order in which the car was assembled at the factory. Using your loose parts, the car, and the AIM, make a parts list. Figure out what you have and what you are missing. Bag, label, and box everything by section. Order parts you know you are going to need in the next few weeks. I tend to order ahead in case I get stuck on something I can move forward with something else.

You've got some decisions to make on what you are going to do with ignition. You have to sort that out before you can finish the interior. Personally I would go with electronic ignition. An electronic ignition will be more maintenance free. If you can't find an electronic ignition with a gear drive, then you will need a electric tach and wire it up, which isn't difficult. Easy button - and preserving value of the car - is to stick with points if you have a dwell meter and know how to use it.

For the fuel, you can decide later. As already stated, the q-jet requires more expertise but you know it'll work/fit and probably perform better. I'm not sure what, if any, intake adapter you might need for an Edelbrock and how that might affect the height of the breather. I have Edelbrocks in both my old cars and like them, but the '68 doesn't have the original engine and the F-350 has no clearance issues. Every time you stray from original, you have to check fitment/compatibility of everything. My '68 is so modified it just is part of the process at this point. While an EFI would be great for performance/ease of use, your have to drop the fuel tank and install an electric fuel pump and wiring, pull and cover the mechanical fuel pump hole, reroute fuel line, sensors for the EFI, and on and on. If you're not willing to pull the windshield, you aren't going to want to mess with EFI. Save that for another year.

[ZipZap]

Originally Posted by C3C7NIC

Agree. 🥴

Yes, we work FT, me 12 hour shifts. We are working on the car every night and also on weekends.

In an attempt to knock out one thing at a time we find something that needs addressing to progress on the first.

Could not do dynamat/heat barrier till column corrected/removed, cannot deal with console/install etc until engine carb decisions made to run correct stuff to gauges, cannot install bumpers till parts found oh, by the way, suspension parts fell off while moving the car because parts were missing. Was told had to address that ASAP. 🤪

You are 1000% right, but hard to knock out one thing, with my level of ignorance, feeling we might affect another and the exact order to do things is lost on me. Clearly DUB had several modifications/projects simultaneously, and that has provided added confusion.

Paint still needs to be cut/ buffed so recommended not to put lights etc on till that is done, but how do we check wiring if lights not installed?

Wish we could get a clear cut order of how to proceed that will avoid too
much backtracking.

As of right now, this is my to do list:

Paint finish cut/buff. Lots of runs down low, upper car down to about 2000 grit.

Sway bar parts missing )should be easy fix I hope)

All interior (other than dynamat/insulation/ finished that tonight. Still need firewall insulation.

All interior/dash/console/ most original wiring there vintage air needs to be installed (vents) electrical hooked up

Headlights and front frame extension needs to go in.

Wiper motor/wiper door actuator (everything in cowl needs installed)

Doors (empty) all in needs need to be installed)

Hood/decklid (all parts on just needs installed)

All exterior lights.

Bumpers/trim/etc

Convertible top (have new top, needs to be installed)

Some order of things is obvious while others I’m not clear on.

I know I’m overwhelmed and truly need very specific direction.

I've built race cars and know the feeling. You need to parse it up and just settle in for a long project. Look at the good side; you don't need a cage. You are absolutely correct in looking at the order things "have" to be done in, and sadly, that sometimes delays any work at all waiting for something. I would do stupid stuff while waiting like rebuilding hubs.

You need also to plan time away from the project, and waiting for parts sometimes was the best break for me.

I love that year. Gonna be a beauty.

[C3C7NIC]

Originally Posted by Kevin68

I understand the whole "one thing leads to another thing."

Cliffs: Stop assembling, get organized.

Without knowing where progress stopped, it's hard to advise. I'd start with the easy stuff that isn't really dependent on coordination between systems. For instance, the doors. Or the wiper tray (assuming you're committed to keeping the windshield in). Suspension.

What I'm going to suggest next is not satisfying work at all, but I promise it will help you get your head wrapped around what you need to do and in what order. I believe the pages in the AIM are in the order in which the car was assembled at the factory. Using your loose parts, the car, and the AIM, make a parts list. Figure out what you have and what you are missing. Bag, label, and box everything by section. Order parts you know you are going to need in the next few weeks. I tend to order ahead in case I get stuck on something I can move forward with something else.

You've got some decisions to make on what you are going to do with ignition. You have to sort that out before you can finish the interior. Personally I would go with electronic ignition. An electronic ignition will be more maintenance free. If you can't find an electronic ignition with a gear drive, then you will need a electric tach and wire it up, which isn't difficult. Easy button - and preserving value of the car - is to stick with points if you have a dwell meter and know how to use it.

For the fuel, you can decide later. As already stated, the q-jet requires more expertise but you know it'll work/fit and probably perform better. I'm not sure what, if any, intake adapter you might need for an Edelbrock and how that might affect the height of the breather. I have Edelbrocks in both my old cars and like them, but the '68 doesn't have the original engine and the F-350 has no clearance issues. Every time you stray from original, you have to check fitment/compatibility of everything. My '68 is so modified it just is part of the process at this point. While an EFI would be great for performance/ease of use, your have to drop the fuel tank and install an electric fuel pump and wiring, pull and cover the mechanical fuel pump hole, reroute fuel line, sensors for the EFI, and on and on. If you're not willing to pull the windshield, you aren't going to want to mess with EFI. Save that for another year.

Great input! Thank you!

Once the rain let up we plan to go through everything and try to get a very clear list of what is missing.

We have organized a lot into categories, but not done as you have suggested and inventory every part/fasters etc.

Appreciate the input in regard to the carb/tach. Hoping someone here has Quadra jet knowledge.

[ZipZap]

Originally Posted by Kevin68

Easy button - and preserving value of the car - is to stick with points if you have a dwell meter and know how to use it.

Damn. You just reminded me of the endless number of coil shocks I received at the gas station I worked at

[Steve_R]

Originally Posted by C3C7NIC

Appreciate the input in regard to the carb/tach. Hoping someone here has Quadra jet knowledge.

I’ve set up and tuned lots of those carbs. It’s not something I can simply teach you over the internet. I suspect there are videos on YouTube that would be helpful.

[C3C7NIC]

Originally Posted by ZipZap

I've built race cars and know the feeling. You need to parse it up and just settle in for a long project. Look at the good side; you don't need a cage. You are absolutely correct in looking at the order things "have" to be done in, and sadly, that sometimes delays any work at all waiting for something. I would do stupid stuff while waiting like rebuilding hubs.

You need also to plan time away from the project, and waiting for parts sometimes was the best break for me.

I love that year. Gonna be a beauty.

Thank you for the pep talk and advice.

Don’t know if bad luck or I’ve just been taken advantage of, stupid (All of the above maybe) but ready to see things start going in the right direction.

We managed to get the jaguar to only needing interior and top installed, surely we can handle the vette. Granted the jag was farther along, but far less resources for it were available.

[C3C7NIC]

Originally Posted by Steve_R

I’ve set up and tuned lots of those carbs. It’s not something I can simply teach you over the internet. I suspect there are videos on YouTube that would be helpful.

Odd that more guys aren’t aware of how to set these things up.

Even the first shop that worked in the car here had to have a carb specialist come in.

Come on to OK buddy. We will treat you well and you and tim can play a few rounds of “whack Fuq”. Would love to watch Kathy kick his a$$. ⛳️🏌️*♀️

😂

[outrunm]

Does anyone remember Lars from CF that would travel around to fix Qjet issues? I heard he had a family tragedy recently.

[C3C7NIC]

Originally Posted by outrunm

Does anyone remember Lars from CF that would travel around to fix Qjet issues? I heard he had a family tragedy recently.

I’ve emailed him.

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lars_Grimsrud

He absolutely is the guru so hoping to get his input.

[C3C7NIC]

His response at the other place. Apparently he did not get my email.

No pictures below but his message:




lars , Today 02:20 PM
Tech Contributor
I have not received an e-mail from you.

The carb in the pictures is not a '68 big block carb.

Be aware that the big block Vette 390 horse in '68 (and '68 only) used a choke coil that rotated the opposite direction of all other choke coils. To accommodate that, the '68 (one year only) big block Q-Jet had a choke lever on the carb that was designed to rotate the opposite direction of any other Q-Jet. If your intake manifold has the correct '68 choke coil on it, you cannot use that non-big block carb and have the choke work - the choke will close when the engine is hot and open when the engine is cold. Most vendors who sell the choke coils don't know this, so they will sell you a coil for a '68 that is actually a normal-rotation '69+ coil (which means the choke coil cannot be used with a real '68 big block carb).

Here is a '69+ big block carb. Note how the hole for the choke coil rod is behind the rotation shaft, like the carb in your photos:


This is a real '68 427 carb. Note the "duckbill" choke counterweight to make it operate in the opposite rotation, with the rod attach hole located forward of the pivot point:


You can also see the idle vent cover on the forward top side of the airhorn, used on Q-Jets up through 1970. The fact that your carb does not have the idle vent provision means that the airhorn is off of a 1971+ carb. That means you have a "mix-n-match" carb that has been pieced together with various parts and pieces from multiple year carbs... I can see other evidence that the carb has been hacked by a commercial builder - you got yourself a can of worms there - not just a carb that needs to be "set up." Not good...

Lars

[outrunm]

Ugh. I know you don't want more work, but the best thing I ever did for driveability on the 63 was fuel injection. This will lengthen your to do list should you decide to go that route.

[Steve_R]

Originally Posted by C3C7NIC

Odd that more guys aren’t aware of how to set these things up.

Even the first shop that worked in the car here had to have a carb specialist come in.

Come on to OK buddy. We will treat you well and you and tim can play a few rounds of “whack Fuq”. Would love to watch Kathy kick his a$$. ⛳️🏌️*♀️

😂

I could be talked into that, except for this:

Originally Posted by C3C7NIC

You can also see the idle vent cover on the forward top side of the airhorn, used on Q-Jets up through 1970. The fact that your carb does not have the idle vent provision means that the airhorn is off of a 1971+ carb. That means you have a "mix-n-match" carb that has been pieced together with various parts and pieces from multiple year carbs... I can see other evidence that the carb has been hacked by a commercial builder - you got yourself a can of worms there - not just a carb that needs to be "set up." Not good...

Lars

I don’t know how easy it is to find the correct carb (likely not that easy) or what it would cost, but it sounds like fixing the one you have will be difficult if not impossible. It might be time to consider a different carb or aftermarket EFI system. That decision will depend partly on your budget, and on how “original” you want the car to be. If it was me I’d go with EFI, especially if it’s going to be a driver.

[Kevin68]

Originally Posted by Steve_R

I could be talked into that, except for this:



I don’t know how easy it is to find the correct carb (likely not that easy) or what it would cost, but it sounds like fixing the one you have will be difficult if not impossible. It might be time to consider a different carb or aftermarket EFI system. That decision will depend partly on your budget, and on how “original” you want the car to be. If it was me I’d go with EFI, especially if it’s going to be a driver.

I don't disagree that EFI is the ultimate in drivability, but from what I've read, it is a not as a bolt-on mod. An Edelbrock would be an easier swap, IMO. I've had my 68' for 16 years with the Edelbrock and other than one idle adjustment, I've done nothing to it and wouldn't hesitate to drive anywhere in it....except in heavy rain.... no top.

Not intending to confuse you further, I'm voting for the easy/fast button. If that is a Q-jet, great, but I think any carburetor is going to be an easier swap than EFI. Make it run. Make it better/perfect later. It's not like this isn't something that isn't easily undone.

To be clear, I'm not advocating for slapping it together because there are some mods that are hard to undo, but if a Q-jet is too big a hurdle right now, go to the next easiest option that works AND can be undone.

If I'm misinformed about the relative ease of an EB vs. EFI mod, I will defer to others' expertise.

[Kevin68]

Originally Posted by ZipZap

Damn. You just reminded me of the endless number of coil shocks I received at the gas station I worked at

It only took me once to figure out not to do that again.

Inspiration for you screen name?

[Steve_R]

Originally Posted by Kevin68

I don't disagree that EFI is the ultimate in drivability, but from what I've read, it is a not as a bolt-on mod. An Edelbrock would be an easier swap, IMO. I've had my 68' for 16 years with the Edelbrock and other than one idle adjustment, I've done nothing to it and wouldn't hesitate to drive anywhere in it....except in heavy rain.... no top.

Not intending to confuse you further, I'm voting for the easy/fast button. If that is a Q-jet, great, but I think any carburetor is going to be an easier swap than EFI. Make it run. Make it better/perfect later. It's not like this isn't something that isn't easily undone.

To be clear, I'm not advocating for slapping it together because there are some mods that are hard to undo, but if a Q-jet is too big a hurdle right now, go to the next easiest option that works AND can be undone.

If I'm misinformed about the relative ease of an EB vs. EFI mod, I will defer to others' expertise.

If it was me I'd go with the Holley Sniper EFI system. It's a bolt-on solution that just works. Here's an evaluation of the best EFI systems that rates the Holley system number 1. It's self learning so no laptop or programming is needed. I ran a previous version of this on my '69 Bronco; it just worked.

[C3C7NIC]

Originally Posted by Steve_R

If it was me I'd go with the Holley Sniper EFI system. It's a bolt-on solution that just works. Here's an evaluation of the best EFI systems that rates the Holley system number 1. It's self learning so no laptop or programming is needed. I ran a previous version of this on my '69 Bronco; it just worked.

Would that allow me to use the same air filter cover and keep somewhat the same look of 68 in the engine bay?

With that EFI, would have to drop the gas tank?

Some modifications look to have been done in the gas tank. I’ll try to take pictures later when it warms up. DUB could have potentially already planned for something like this.