C3 restoration nightmare

[Big bob]

[markids77]

If a true restoration is your intent, I would put another exhaust system on the list as I don't believe they were welded at the factory.

[Grey Ghost]

I'll just say this and not to argue with anyone about it. I have painted numerous cars in my lifetime including my '65 and '66 Corvette.

Most people won't skimp on the liquids and they are expensive. I would guess he used PPG Deltron (acrylic urethane). That is the best stuff available. And followed up with an uncertain number of clear coats (important to know when color sanding/buffing).

Even the NCRS guys go basecoat/clearcoat and get away with it in judging when the original cars were factor single stage lacquer.

The biggest problems face when painting a Corvette vs steel car is static electricity. It attracts EVERY freakin' little particle in the atmosphere. It takes some special grounding to keep that fiberglass body from being a big ass magnet to everything floating in the air.

Now, if the painter went full factory authentic and didn't clear coat it...I would be more worried about any damage. But, I imagine he layed down plenty of clear and paint like Deltron is a 'high solids' paint. That is why it's $$$ compared to thinner less solids paint.

Anyone remember the old Imron aircraft paint back in the day?

Just my 2 cents and I have painted over a dozen cars in my life.

[Steve_R]

I remember when Imron came out. Painted a bunch with it. Nasty stuff to breathe. I seem to recall Candie saying it has basecoat/clear and still needs to be wet sanded and buffed out - a lot of work by itself.

[Grey Ghost]

Originally Posted by Steve_R

I remember when Imron came out. Painted a bunch with it. Nasty stuff to breathe. I seem to recall Candie saying it has basecoat/clear and still needs to be wet sanded and buffed out - a lot of work by itself.

I don't think you could scuff and paint over it either. People found out trying to strip it down to bare metal was a PITA with Imron. It may have been developed for ships or something crazy. Tough stuff, but that was it's only quality.

PPG Concept is another $$$$ liquid.

[Steve_R]

Originally Posted by Grey Ghost

I don't think you could scuff and paint over it either. People found out trying to strip it down to bare metal was a PITA with Imron. It may have been developed for ships or something crazy. Tough stuff, but that was it's only quality.

PPG Concept is another $$$$ liquid.

I used Imron on OTR trucks at a GMC Jeep dealership body shop. Tough stuff. Never had to attempt to wet sand or buff it.

[kingpin]

Need a full pic of your Avatar first OP and then I can help.

[C3C7NIC]

Originally Posted by markids77

If a true restoration is your intent, I would put another exhaust system on the list as I don't believe they were welded at the factory.

Not going for originality. All new Exhaust was recently installed.

Originally Posted by Grey Ghost

I'll just say this and not to argue with anyone about it. I have painted numerous cars in my lifetime including my '65 and '66 Corvette.

Most people won't skimp on the liquids and they are expensive. I would guess he used PPG Deltron (acrylic urethane). That is the best stuff available. And followed up with an uncertain number of clear coats (important to know when color sanding/buffing).

Even the NCRS guys go basecoat/clearcoat and get away with it in judging when the original cars were factor single stage lacquer.

The biggest problems face when painting a Corvette vs steel car is static electricity. It attracts EVERY freakin' little particle in the atmosphere. It takes some special grounding to keep that fiberglass body from being a big ass magnet to everything floating in the air.

Now, if the painter went full factory authentic and didn't clear coat it...I would be more worried about any damage. But, I imagine he layed down plenty of clear and paint like Deltron is a 'high solids' paint. That is why it's $$$ compared to thinner less solids paint.

Anyone remember the old Imron aircraft paint back in the day?

Just my 2 cents and I have painted over a dozen cars in my life.

Dub mentioned something about 5 layers of clear coat. Don't hold me to that but I am almost certain that is what he said.

Dub was well known for his paint and body work. We looked for my paint (can) to confirm, but only found a small "urine cup" with touch up paint in the booth.

Originally Posted by kingpin

Need a full pic of your Avatar first OP and then I can help.

There is not one buddy, it was a headshot.

[C3C7NIC]

Originally Posted by Grey Ghost

Just my 2 cents and I have painted over a dozen cars in my life.

Will you answer a few questions for me?

Some have told us totally different orders of doing things, so I need to know the BEST way to tackle this.


The decklid is the only part that is fully buffed out.


The doors/hood/rear lower panel/headlights have not.


One person said to buff these parts out uninstalled, others have said to install THEN buff out. What is the preference?

Also, we had a local shop come evaluate the brakes/engine/electrical/dash work etc. They requested we leave the hood off and let them do the work before we buff out. Is that good order to do things?


Thank you.


I'm sure I'll have many more questions coming

[Steve_R]

Candie, the entire car must be wet sanded, aka color sanded, before buffing. Have a professional do it. It's way too easy to sand through the paint on an edge, or buff (burn) through, and then you're screwed, even if you just sand or burn through the clear coat. I much prefer to do that to each panel off the car and then install, but that means you have to have something to hold them steady, which you likely don't have in your garage. A pro can do it either way and it's really a personal preference, thus the two different answers you got from two different people.

If you're careful and take your time, and have help, you can put the car back together and get it running. The one thing out of everything you should IMO pay someone to do is the sanding & buffing of the paint.

[Grey Ghost]

Originally Posted by C3C7NIC

Will you answer a few questions for me?

Some have told us totally different orders of doing things, so I need to know the BEST way to tackle this.


The decklid is the only part that is fully buffed out.


The doors/hood/rear lower panel/headlights have not.


One person said to buff these parts out uninstalled, others have said to install THEN buff out. What is the preference?

Also, we had a local shop come evaluate the brakes/engine/electrical/dash work etc. They requested we leave the hood off and let them do the work before we buff out. Is that good order to do things?


Thank you.


I'm sure I'll have many more questions coming

I would get all the mechanical/electrical finished before installing the body panels. Just easier to access and do a better job of it. ALL of it.

I would then get it buffed out. Buffing compound will go EVERYWHERE. It splatters like crazy when machine applied. Off the car is more common. Easier to see the panel you are buffing, no stooping, bending, twisting, etc...with a machine. Better light conditions. You can place the panel on a table and just do a better job with it that way.

Interior, top, and outside trim would be the last thing on the hit list.

[Steve_R]

Originally Posted by Grey Ghost

I would get all the mechanical/electrical finished before installing the body panels. Just easier to access and do a better job of it. ALL of it.

This. I'd leave the doors and hood off for now. Store them out of the way where they won't get damaged. Concentrate on getting it running, which means wiring, suspension, brakes, fuel system, etc.

[Hardluck]

Originally Posted by C3C7NIC

Not going for originality. All new Exhaust was recently installed.



Dub mentioned something about 5 layers of clear coat. Don't hold me to that but I am almost certain that is what he said.

Dub was well known for his paint and body work. We looked for my paint (can) to confirm, but only found a small "urine cup" with touch up paint in the booth.





There is not one buddy, it was a headshot.

Hosers are all pigs(Murrat)

I'll take all my unposties to the grave!

[Strats-N-Vettes]

Originally Posted by Grey Ghost

I would get all the mechanical/electrical finished before installing the body panels. Just easier to access and do a better job of it. ALL of it.

[C3C7NIC]

Don’t come at me about the video quality.

Can you tell from this video what stage of sanding/buffing everything other than the hood/decklid are?

We have access to a great paint body guy, where the jag is. His mustangs and Shelby’s are concourse level cars. Not vettes but sure working the paint is the same. He recommends putting all parts on before sanding buffing and the other guys say leave it off.


Will be taking parts out there to sand/buff and the car once it’s running.


Thanks guys.

https://youtu.be/899VnCkSLEY

[mrvette]

I dunno, want a show car seen maybe 3-4X/year?? ok, have fun busting your nutz and wallets......want to have fun with it?? drive it to stores/etc??

take it to Macco Maaco?? like I did and it turned out fine for a street driver even now some 6 years later.....is it PURRfect?? hell NO, watt IS for a car that is actually driven.....I Paid just shy of 600 bux, color change from burgundy to a bright GREEN.....course today they probably want 6000 bux......

[SteelCityBlue]

When I had my 69 painted 20 years ago, it was $9K. The painter went all the way down to the gelcoat base. It took about a year to get it back.

[Steve_R]

It's hard to tell from most of the video because the light is flat. It appears to me that some has been color sanded and some hasn't. Here are some screenshots to point out what I see. The first is the door jamb, which is shiny but has orange peel, which says it hasn't been sanded or buffed. The next is a rear quarter which appears to have been sanded because it's smooth but dull; but that line above the wheel well concerns me; what is that? The third is around the fender vents, and it appears that it's been sanded but perhaps sanded through some clear around the edges; I hope I'm wrong on that as it's hard to tell from the video but it looks weird.

Some good still photos with much better lighting would be good to see.

@Grey Ghost what do you see?

.

[C3C7NIC]

Originally Posted by SteelCityBlue

When I had my 69 painted 20 years ago, it was $9K. The painter went all the way down to the gelcoat base. It took about a year to get it back.

Yikes! Don;t want to do that!

Originally Posted by mrvette

I dunno, want a show car seen maybe 3-4X/year?? ok, have fun busting your nutz and wallets......want to have fun with it?? drive it to stores/etc??

take it to Macco Maaco?? like I did and it turned out fine for a street driver even now some 6 years later.....is it PURRfect?? hell NO, watt IS for a car that is actually driven.....I Paid just shy of 600 bux, color change from burgundy to a bright GREEN.....course today they probably want 6000 bux......

This car was painted and frame/ect completed @ show level, not ready to bail on that process now. I'm not afraid to learn how to do the work, I have helped with paint and body sanding a little, but not enough to feel completely comfortable.

Originally Posted by Steve_R

It's hard to tell from most of the video because the light is flat. It appears to me that some has been color sanded and some hasn't. Here are some screenshots to point out what I see. The first is the door jamb, which is shiny but has orange peel, which says it hasn't been sanded or buffed. The next is a rear quarter which appears to have been sanded because it's smooth but dull; but that line above the wheel well concerns me; what is that? The third is around the fender vents, and it appears that it's been sanded but perhaps sanded through some clear around the edges; I hope I'm wrong on that as it's hard to tell from the video but it looks weird.

Some good still photos with much better lighting would be good to see.

@Grey Ghost what do you see?

.

Will try to get better pictures with appropriate lighting. Thanks Steve.

[C3C7NIC]

And where the heck does this go?