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Old 08-31-2022, 8:52am   #101
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How many stumps will you be grinding?

Another point for site preparation Ė if you just draw a big square a few feet around a 6Ē or less stump that you want to pull out, use a subsoiler plow to pop the roots, you donít have to grind it. in fact itís much faster just to pop those routes and then either pull it out with the plow, or push it out with either the front end loader or pallet forks. Or if you have a backhoe you can use that to pry the stump out of the ground.

Since youíre going to be leveling and moving dirt around leaving a big hole really isnít it an issue. And it would be faster than grinding it
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Old 08-31-2022, 8:54am   #102
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Caveat- sometimes itís faster. Some trees donít have a big tap root that goes straight down. Those are easy to just use a subsoiler plow allow to break nearly all the roots. Even big roots at the trunk usually get small enough just a few feet away from the stump base.

Those with a tap foot might be harder. You might have to dig a little with the front loader to get to it

Plows are very cheap attachments. Mine was free. It cost about $300 new. You can use them to pull pex lines right through the ground for outbuildings, irrigation etc

The main thing is how many Stumps you need to remove
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Old 08-31-2022, 9:09am   #103
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Old 08-31-2022, 9:20am   #104
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This is my plow. Free gratis from my JD dealer

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Old 08-31-2022, 9:32am   #105
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Caveat- sometimes itís faster. Some trees donít have a big tap root that goes straight down. Those are easy to just use a subsoiler plow allow to break nearly all the roots. Even big roots at the trunk usually get small enough just a few feet away from the stump base.

Those with a tap foot might be harder. You might have to dig a little with the front loader to get to it

Plows are very cheap attachments. Mine was free. It cost about $300 new. You can use them to pull pex lines right through the ground for outbuildings, irrigation etc

The main thing is how many Stumps you need to remove
The clearing guy will remove all of them and root rake at the homesite and driveway.

The stumps left are all planted pine and in the natural areas surrounding the homesite. As I understand it, they will rot out in a couple of years. And then just crumble or knock out with the loader bucket like a dead tooth.
Apparently the planted pines are genetically engineered to do this intentionally for replanting after harvest.

I may grind some if I get impatient in the areas directly adjacent to the homesite. But like you noted, I could do it slowly or use separate machine than the tractor.
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Old 08-31-2022, 10:39am   #106
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3025e all the way is my recommendation.

I don't see any reasons for the 4 series, except

1. Just 'cause. Go big or go home. If ya can't run with the big dawgs....

2. You might actually need it someday.


............?

Other than that, I've got no arguments in favor of it.
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Old 08-31-2022, 11:25am   #107
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3025e all the way is my recommendation.

I don't see any reasons for the 4 series, except

1. Just 'cause. Go big or go home. If ya can't run with the big dawgs....

2. You might actually need it someday.


............?

Other than that, I've got no arguments in favor of it.
Agree. The 4-series is out. And Iíd have no problem moving up to the 3032 for the additional HP except for the diesel exhaust bs.
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Old 08-31-2022, 1:53pm   #108
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I know you have made your decision - I guess I am just chiming in - because I need tractor friends...

I picked this Kubota up with 18 hours for 19K in May. Super happy with it to move dirt, wood ships, throw logs in after cutting trees down, etc. Saves my back and my life!! Since I am not full time at our place in SC, I don't need much other than the bucket.

One thing I was told not to do was fill the rear tires. I was told to get a weight box for the rear 3 point instead as putting beet juice or other stuff in the tires reduces their life and damages the wheels as well.

Any truth to that?

I definitely need a counter weight for when I fill that bucket up!

I love my hydro and it is 2WD/4WD and that is awesome.
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Old 08-31-2022, 3:45pm   #109
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I think the Kubota is a great machine. I just can't get comfortable with the one piece foot pedal on the hydro trans.
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Old 08-31-2022, 6:00pm   #110
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Quote:
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...........

One thing I was told not to do was fill the rear tires. I was told to get a weight box for the rear 3 point instead as putting beet juice or other stuff in the tires reduces their life and damages the wheels as well.

Any truth to that?

............
Use tubes in the tires, end of problem.

If the tires are filled OR if you use wheel weights, the weight is already "in" the tire.

Using a weight box puts extra strain on the bearings in the rear.
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Old 08-31-2022, 6:27pm   #111
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Be sure to buy the most expensive tractor because all you'll be doing is looking at it much like that pressboard shitbox on wheels you call a camper
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Old 09-01-2022, 5:57am   #112
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Here's what it comes down to in my case...

3025 [25 HP- 19 PTO HP- 53 LB TQ] without the DPF

3032 [32 HP- 25 PTO HP- 64 LB TQ] with the DPF

If it wasn't for the diesel emissions bullchit it would be a no brainer to spend the 3 grand for the higher HP tractor.

Opinions?...
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Old 09-01-2022, 6:17am   #113
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I found this and thought it was a good explanation...

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The two machines have the same displacement engine at 1.6L. The 25HP machine is going to have some sort of limit on it to stop it from making more than 25HP and therefore keep it in the EPA class that does not require after treatment. Once you get above 25HP you need to generally have a DPF to make the emissions targets. The $ to get into a 32HP machine isn't an upgrade in the engine it is an upgrade in the aftertreatment system.
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Old 09-01-2022, 6:57am   #114
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Interesting. I knew about the 25hp emissions limit which allowed JD to skip the DPF. I didnít know it was a detuned or otherwise limited version of the 3032.

Which leads me to wonder if (after the factory warranty is expired) if the limiter method can be defeated?

It really is going to depend on whether you need those extra six horses or not. I mean it is significant Ė itís a 33% increase in horsepower.

I havenít done any research from this point on so this is pure speculation -perhaps you can use a 6 foot rotary cutter with a 3032 and you would not with the 3025 which limit you to a 5 foot rotary cutter. These things are kind of subjective because again you can generally use a larger piece of equipment implement if you just go slow enough, which the hydrostatic Drive allows you to do easily.

Again this would probably require a real world a and B comparison to actually know if thereís any truth to this pure speculation
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Old 09-01-2022, 6:59am   #115
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I went up to my farm yesterday and dropped off the backhoe rear attachment and came home with a box blade. Iíve got three drainage problems to solve at three rental properties in the parking areas and drive areas. Itís really nice having the right tool for the job and being able to take care of it yourself. A contractor would probably charge me a couple thousand dollars apiece for each of these jobs to send somebody out with a transit, stakes, and a tractor operator, in addition to delivering a couple of trucks worth of material to fix this problem. I know I can do it myself and knock it out in a day, or possibly two jobs in a day. All I need is the cost of materials (crushed limestone or crushed concrete) and a helper to hold the measurement rod for the transit. My tractor I consider to be already paid for since Iíve saved many times what it cost me on savings for previous jobs.
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Old 09-01-2022, 7:43am   #116
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Interesting. I knew about the 25hp emissions limit which allowed JD to skip the DPF. I didnít know it was a detuned or otherwise limited version of the 3032.

Which leads me to wonder if (after the factory warranty is expired) if the limiter method can be defeated?

It really is going to depend on whether you need those extra six horses or not. I mean it is significant Ė itís a 33% increase in horsepower.

I havenít done any research from this point on so this is pure speculation -perhaps you can use a 6 foot rotary cutter with a 3032 and you would not with the 3025 which limit you to a 5 foot rotary cutter. These things are kind of subjective because again you can generally use a larger piece of equipment implement if you just go slow enough, which the hydrostatic Drive allows you to do easily.

Again this would probably require a real world a and B comparison to actually know if thereís any truth to this pure speculation
Even though the 5 foot rotary cutter (RC20260) calls for 20 PTO HP, many including yourself and the salesman (who has a 3025) tells me its not a problem with the 3025 and the 19 HP PTO.

Also the post hole auger (PHD200) calls for 18 PTO HP so that should be ok with the 3025.

Those are the only two PTO implements I will be using, unless I spring for a stump grinder.

If it wasn't for the exhaust BS I'd be all over that additional 30% HP.

A good friend has the Kubota L3301 with 26 PTO HP and the DPF and says he's had no issues in 5 years of ownership.
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Old 09-01-2022, 8:14am   #117
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I went up to my farm yesterday and dropped off the backhoe rear attachment and came home with a box blade. Iíve got three drainage problems to solve at three rental properties in the parking areas and drive areas. Itís really nice having the right tool for the job and being able to take care of it yourself. A contractor would probably charge me a couple thousand dollars apiece for each of these jobs to send somebody out with a transit, stakes, and a tractor operator, in addition to delivering a couple of trucks worth of material to fix this problem. I know I can do it myself and knock it out in a day, or possibly two jobs in a day. All I need is the cost of materials (crushed limestone or crushed concrete) and a helper to hold the measurement rod for the transit. My tractor I consider to be already paid for since Iíve saved many times what it cost me on savings for previous jobs.
Indeed.
The initial work I plan to accomplish on my little 33 acres will easily pay for the cost of the tractor if I was to hire out the work.
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Old 09-01-2022, 8:34am   #118
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It might be worth it to check out how much a rebuild of the region system on these little tractors it is. It may be a tiny fraction of what it is on a big diesel pick up trucks
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Old 09-01-2022, 8:37am   #119
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To be fair I should mention that my absolute hatred of these DPS systems came from my ownership of a 2014 F 4 50 big diesel they came out of the oil fields of Texas and it was just outside of warranty. None of the factory recalls had been done on the regen system. When I got it the truck kept throwing regen codes and it would cost me $1000 here $1500 there and I finally got sick of it and traded the ****er. It may be a different story with these John Deere tractors -they may be more reliable and overall ultimately cost less money to repair.
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Old 09-01-2022, 11:34am   #120
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What did you decide??
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