C2 Door Adjustment

[Dreaming 60's]

New to the forum and I have a new to me 66 Coupe that need the doors adjusted. Former owner(s) just used the striker to hold the door in correct alignment and you had to close them harder than I think you should. This might be a straight forward simple project, but I don't want to open a Pandoras box, thinking it's simpler than it is.

I have an AIM and maintenance books, but I would still like to hear some comments from those who've done it and any photos taken while accomplishing this (inside the door) would be icing on the cake. I won't mind, talk to me like a 6 year old.

[roadpilot]

Originally Posted by Dreaming 60's

New to the forum and I have a new to me 66 Coupe that need the doors adjusted. Former owner(s) just used the striker to hold the door in correct alignment and you had to close them harder than I think you should. This might be a straight forward simple project, but I don't want to open a Pandoras box, thinking it's simpler than it is.

I have an AIM and maintenance books, but I would still like to hear some comments from those who've done it and any photos taken while accomplishing this (inside the door) would be icing on the cake. I won't mind, talk to me like a 6 year old.

For complete instructions on your door adjustment, and stricker adjustment
buy Body by Fisher 1966 Service Manuel. You can find this manuel on
Ebay. Good luck

[Yadkin]

I believe the C2 is the same chassis as the C3, so the procedure should be similar. When I did my C3 I had the door mostly open, supported by a floor jack on the far edge and a rope tied to the ceiling to keep it from leaning over. Then I removed one hinge, installed new bushings, reinstalled then did the second hinge. Final adjustment was using the jack to raise in small increments.

[RatDog]

Originally Posted by Yadkin

I believe the C2 is the same chassis as the C3, so the procedure should be similar. When I did my C3 I had the door mostly open, supported by a floor jack on the far edge and a rope tied to the ceiling to keep it from leaning over. Then I removed one hinge, installed new bushings, reinstalled then did the second hinge. Final adjustment was using the jack to raise in small increments.

That’s brilliant! I’m blown away.

I may do my ‘67’s doors just to try out that technique even though my doors are fine.

Take care,
Steve

[Dreaming 60's]

Luckily I don't need new hinge bushing or pins, just adjustment of the existing hinges inside the door..............so I've been told.

[Yadkin]

Originally Posted by Dreaming 60's

Luckily I don't need new hinge bushing or pins, just adjustment of the existing hinges inside the door..............so I've been told.

The bushings are cheap and easy to replace. I'd be surprised if the old ones aren't worn out.

[Dreaming 60's]

I just use the old trick from the 60's when looking to buy another car. You open and lift the door up from the outer end. If you can rock/lift the side of the car up and down, without any play, your hinges and bushings are most likely good. Not scientific but is worked well for the 50's and 60's Chevys (metal bodies) I bought in the 60's.

[roadpilot]

Originally Posted by Dreaming 60's

I just use the old trick from the 60's when looking to buy another car. You open and lift the door up from the outer end. If you can rock/lift the side of the car up and down, without any play, your hinges and bushings are most likely good. Not scientific but is worked well for the 50's and 60's Chevys (metal bodies) I bought in the 60's.

I agree, but we were not buying 50 and 60 year old cars back then.

[Dreaming 60's]

Yeah, but the hinges are the same and if they're worn out or showing wear this test should still be valid.