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Old 06-17-2022, 6:55am   #1
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Default A/C freon?? lack of cool....

So I sealed the system up and charged with R134a out of small white containers 6 oz, called Envro-Safe R134 Replacement with Dye supposed to replace 16 oz of HFC-134a I put 2 cans in the system...

and the system will not COOL, comp runs fine, but no cold through the coil, input or output.....

maybe get some REAL 134???
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Old 06-17-2022, 7:15am   #2
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So I sealed the system up and charged with R134a out of small white containers 6 oz, called Envro-Safe R134 Replacement with Dye supposed to replace 16 oz of HFC-134a
I put 2 cans in the system...
and the system will not COOL, comp runs fine, but no cold through the coil, input or output.....
maybe get some REAL 134???

What are high and low side readings Mr. Gene?
at idle, and 1500rpms?
ambient temp?

Too many variables to speculate what is the problem with your system.
I can tell you over charging will not cool, similar to low refrigerant conditions.

So will:
  • checking for cooling without air blowing across condenser
  • bad radiator
  • bad cooling fan
  • too much oil and/or leak stop
  • heater and AC blend door open at same time
  • AC ducting broken/disconnected
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Old 06-17-2022, 7:24am   #3
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I don't know what your issue is but that enviro safe junk didn’t work in my car hardly at all...
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Old 06-17-2022, 7:56am   #4
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So it's a crap product, no surprise, a bunch of these cans been setting around for some years, and I forget just WHY......so no surprise...but it has oil in with the gas.....now do I determine the amount of oil in the system at this point, I know when I drained it near a year ago because of other issues, no oil came out, but yet oil is in the new freon.....maybe too much oil in system?? hate to drain it all out and recharge without knowing.....

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Old 06-17-2022, 8:09am   #5
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So it's a crap product, no surprise, a bunch of these cans been setting around for some years, and I forget just WHY......so no surprise...but it has oil in with the gas.....now do I determine the amount of oil in the system at this point, I know when I drained it near a year ago because of other issues, no oil came out, but yet oil is in the new freon.....maybe too much oil in system?? hate to drain it all out and recharge without knowing.....


That's all you determined from what knockers and I wrote????
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Old 06-17-2022, 9:29am   #6
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That's all you determined from what knockers and I wrote????
Apparently yes.


He’s never gonna get this repaired on his own, you realize that right? Furthermore, he’s gonna be the homeowner standing over the repairman’s shoulder telling him how to fix it.

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Old 06-17-2022, 9:40am   #7
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Gene, you need to get a vacuum on it and see if there is a leak. After doing that, then put the freon in with the system on as cold as it can get and the fan on high. You should need more than two cans. If you are going to evacuate the refrigerant and all, might as well replace the orifice tube while you are at it.
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Old 06-17-2022, 10:12am   #8
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That's all you determined from what knockers and I wrote????
I hardly an a/c EXPERT, but I have been through many systems, but it's been a few years since me doing anything on this vette....so it was possible I forgot to remember some detail, but among other asspects of this continuing engine/carb/intake change back to OLD tyme induction, lotsa crap to deal with, BUT....even if the fans were not running, which they were....still get some chilly on the coil .....played with other crap just now.....
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Old 06-17-2022, 10:37am   #9
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Does it have an orifice tube? Have you checked it? When I checked mine it was full of gray goo. My AC would only work with the pressure switched jumped and it was NOT the switch that was bad.
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Old 06-17-2022, 11:48am   #10
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Why did you add refrigerant in the first place? Was it low? If so, there is a leak. Did you locate the leak? Did you pull down the system with a vacuum pump and let it sit for a couple of hours to see if it held vacuum? Did you open the system and replace the orifice tube and the receiver/dryer? What do the gauges say? What are the pressures? Etc. Etc.
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Old 06-17-2022, 11:59am   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GTOguy View Post
Why did you add refrigerant in the first place?

I let it all out close to a year ago, because of engine problems, and the pass side head coming off, etc...long story there...but it's together now with a AFB/intake on it, not injection, engine runs fine now...

Was it low? If so, there is a leak. Did you locate the leak? Did you pull down the system with a vacuum pump and let it sit for a couple of hours to see if it held vacuum? Did you open the system and replace the orifice tube and the receiver/dryer? What do the gauges say? What are the pressures? Etc. Etc.
It held a bit over 20 vac when I pulled it down yesterday, for several hours...put the questionable freon in, and it's holding pressure ok, BUT no cooling.....I remember changing some inline parts years ago, updating at that time from 12 to 134.....the system being basically open to the air, but lines closed off/plugged while other crap being done....so I wonder if that tube maybe stuck open?? makes no sense to me.....just played with the trans kickdown so to do another road test......
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Old 06-17-2022, 12:09pm   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Strats-N-Vettes View Post
What are high and low side readings Mr. Gene?
at idle, and 1500rpms?
ambient temp?


Too many variables to speculate what is the problem with your system.
I can tell you over charging will not cool, similar to low refrigerant conditions.

So will:
  • checking for cooling without air blowing across condenser
  • bad radiator
  • bad cooling fan
  • too much oil and/or leak stop
  • heater and AC blend door open at same time
  • AC ducting broken/disconnected
Quote:
Originally Posted by GTOguy View Post
Why did you add refrigerant in the first place? Was it low? If so, there is a leak. Did you locate the leak? Did you pull down the system with a vacuum pump and let it sit for a couple of hours to see if it held vacuum? Did you open the system and replace the orifice tube and the receiver/dryer? What do the gauges say?

What are the pressures?
Etc. Etc.



First thing I asked and last thing GTO asked determines course of actions of how to make the system cool.
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Old 06-17-2022, 12:20pm   #13
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Correct. And old R12 systems using 134 need to be charged to 75% capacity, not the original R-12 amount. If overcharged, the compressor reed valves could be blown and you'll have a working compressor but no cooling with equal pressures. When pulling down a system with a vacuum pump prior to a recharge (evacuating a system) it needs to hold 29.5"hg for an hour or more after the pump is shut off.
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