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Old 03-06-2024, 8:21pm   #1
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Default Refrigerator water valves

I have a 20 year old Electrolux refrigerator. It has a beautiful stainless steel cabinet, heavy gauge, so I want to keep it running as long as possible.

I've replaced the ice makers twice and, more recently one water valve assembly. The second valve assembly appeared different that the original, didn't work well when it was new and now doesn't work at all.

There are actually three valves in the assembly. Valve one is wired to open when either valve two (drinking water) or the ice maker valve is open. I suspect this is to allow the homeowner to change out the filter without having to operate a service valve to the refrigerator.

The electrical diagram for the valves is below. The blue wire is a neutral. Tan operates valve two and yellow operates the ice maker valve. Diodes between these and tan/yellow allow neutral to pass through valve one.

I used a voltmeter to test the circuit. 120VAC on valve two and the ice maker valve when switched on; 84VDC at valve one when either is switched.

The 84VDC is what is expected by the RMS math: 120 (1/ 2^0.5) = 84.

I suspect that the new part was not designed for DC voltage and it burned out.
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Old 03-06-2024, 8:27pm   #2
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Where'd you come up with your need for your RMS calculation?

(hint: DC doesn't have peak-to-peak nor RMS value)
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Old 03-06-2024, 8:28pm   #3
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A new valve assembly is $80 plus shipping. For a part that has proven to be defective. I think that I will bypass valve one.

The other issue with this fridge is that a replacement filter was just slightly off dimensionally and ended up breaking the factory assembly that holds it all in place. So I had to use zip ties to make it work. So I'm going to eliminate all that garbage, install an in-line filter at the water source and plumb directly into the valve two/ ice maker valve manifold.
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Old 03-06-2024, 8:32pm   #4
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Where'd you come up with your need for your RMS calculation?

(hint: DC doesn't have peak-to-peak nor RMS value)
Looking at the diagram I just figured that was going on, verified by this source:
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Old 03-06-2024, 8:46pm   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yadkin View Post
Looking at the diagram I just figured that was going on, verified by this source:
Correct... AC

As I said, DC has no peak-to-peak nor RMS (Root Mean Square) values. DC is simply DC.

Now your schematic shows 2 diodes creating an OR logic situation but also creating only half-wave rectification. And without filtering, you're only seeing approx. half of the waveform. I suspect your meter can't accurately deal with such a waveform. What is it? A Harbor Freight special?
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Old 03-06-2024, 8:52pm   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KenHorse View Post
Correct... AC

As I said, DC has no peak-to-peak nor RMS (Root Mean Square) values. DC is simply DC.

Now your schematic shows 2 diodes creating an OR logic situation but also creating only half-wave rectification. And without filtering, you're only seeing approx. half of the waveform. I suspect your meter can't accurately deal with such a waveform. What is it? A Harbor Freight special?
Southwire 21050T.
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Old 03-06-2024, 9:15pm   #7
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Old 03-06-2024, 11:24pm   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KenHorse View Post
Correct... AC

As I said, DC has no peak-to-peak nor RMS (Root Mean Square) values. DC is simply DC.

Now your schematic shows 2 diodes creating an OR logic situation but also creating only half-wave rectification. And without filtering, you're only seeing approx. half of the waveform. I suspect your meter can't accurately deal with such a waveform. What is it? A Harbor Freight special?
I recommend he send it into a qualified repair man...clearly he isn't
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Old 03-07-2024, 12:14pm   #9
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I recommend he send it into a qualified repair man...clearly he isn't
Agreed, OR get a new one, as new one is much more efficient, and will have no repair bills for 10+ years.
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Old 03-07-2024, 12:25pm   #10
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Agreed, OR get a new one, as new one is much more efficient, and will have no repair bills for 10+ years.
I respectfully disagree. I have found that the quality of appliances has been degrading every decade since the early '90's. New stuff is garbage.
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Old 03-07-2024, 12:40pm   #11
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I respectfully disagree. I have found that the quality of appliances has been degrading every decade since the early '90's. New stuff is garbage.
Last three refrigerators I purchased got me 10+ years.
Same for washers & dryers, last two microwaves only got 7 years.
TVs are easily good for 10+.
I guess I am lucky, as have not experienced such.
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Old 03-07-2024, 12:45pm   #12
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Agree that TV's and radios are better than ever. My luck with fridges, furnaces, washers, and dryers has been they last less than 10 years. I've replaced the furnace twice in the past 14 years in a rental house, at $7500 a crack. Original one lasted 60 years.
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Old 03-07-2024, 5:52pm   #13
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Agreed, OR get a new one, as new one is much more efficient, and will have no repair bills for 10+ years.
Heimey lacks the brains to fix anything, so he'll always call the man.

This Electrolux is made of heavy gage, real stainless steel. A magnet won't attach to it. To get this kind of quality today, I'd have to get a Sub-Zero.
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Old 03-07-2024, 6:24pm   #14
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Last three refrigerators I purchased got me 10+ years.
Same for washers & dryers, last two microwaves only got 7 years.
TVs are easily good for 10+.
I guess I am lucky, as have not experienced such.
Your suggestion is not unlike tossing out a 60's Chevelle because the carburetor fell apart.

My refrigerator is on year 20 and still working perfectly except for the filter and one of three water valves in an assembly. A remote filter is less money than a factory replacement, and lasts five years not six months. I can bypass the broken valve and plumb the other two directly for nothing out-of-pocket.

Or, if I choose I can replace the cheap plastic valves with industrial rated stainless valves for $30 each. I might do that just for the cool factor.
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Old 03-07-2024, 6:45pm   #15
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Electrolux one of worst reforges out there. Had one, couldn’t wait to get rid of it. Worst reviews on line for ice- water

But ya can keep throwing money after bad. After “20 yrs” of fixing it why don’t ya shoot it. Opps, case in point, in the bowel of the POS again

Junk it and get your life back
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Old 03-08-2024, 1:17pm   #16
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After careful consideration of all the expert and well-intentioned advice here, I ordered parts for the repair.
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Old 03-08-2024, 1:48pm   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yadkin View Post
Your suggestion is not unlike tossing out a 60's Chevelle because the carburetor fell apart.

My refrigerator is on year 20 and still working perfectly except for the filter and one of three water valves in an assembly. A remote filter is less money than a factory replacement, and lasts five years not six months. I can bypass the broken valve and plumb the other two directly for nothing out-of-pocket.

Or, if I choose I can replace the cheap plastic valves with industrial rated stainless valves for $30 each. I might do that just for the cool factor.
Flawed analogy, no commonality AND insulting,,, swing and a miss.

I spend a FORTUNE on my cars, repairs and maintenance and upgrades, for 20-year old appliances I give them a funeral.
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Old 03-08-2024, 2:03pm   #18
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Flawed analogy, no commonality AND insulting,,, swing and a miss.
That's your opinion; nothing more.
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Old 03-08-2024, 2:26pm   #19
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That's your opinion; nothing more.
As a BIG THING, my opinion matters !!
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Old 03-08-2024, 2:30pm   #20
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As a BIG THING, my opinion matters !!
It matters to you no doubt, but not to me. I live my life based on reality and facts- always have.
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