1967 Rear Leaf spring

[StudleyJames]

My 67 L68 rear (original) leaf sping looks brand new (cleaned, new pads, and painted gray).

I have had to purchase new non stock strut rod bolts (5" lg) for the car sit level

My qustion is:
This winter I will be removing the diff and trans, should I have the main leaf of spring re-curved? It looks almost flat when the car sits on the ground, has some arch but not much
Do not want to go fiberglass

[roadpilot]

Originally Posted by StudleyJames

My 67 L68 rear (original) leaf sping looks brand new (cleaned, new pads, and painted gray).

I have had to purchase new non stock strut rod bolts (5" lg) for the car sit level

My qustion is:
This winter I will be removing the diff and trans, should I have the main leaf of spring re-curved? It looks almost flat when the car sits on the ground, has some arch but not much
Do not want to go fiberglass

Mine has a liitle bow but not much. My BB rides good. How does your car
ride? I would leave your springs alone ,if the ride is good.

[StudleyJames]

Originally Posted by roadpilot

Mine has a liitle bow but not much. My BB rides good. How does your car
ride? I would leave your springs alone ,if the ride is good.

The ride is good, but the bolts look funny being so short

[roadpilot]

Originally Posted by StudleyJames

The ride is good, but the bolts look funny being so short

Run longer bolts ,if you are worried.

[StudleyJames]

Originally Posted by roadpilot

Run longer bolts ,if you are worried.

I put shorter bolts in so the car would sit level, how is putting longer bolts back in going solve anything?

My question was should I have the spring re curved or buy a new one (non fiberglass)

[roadpilot]

Originally Posted by StudleyJames

I put shorter bolts in so the car would sit level, how is putting longer bolts back in going solve anything?

My question was should I have the spring re curved or buy a new one (non fiberglass)

You felt uneasy with short bolts. My suggestion run longer bolts for
peace of mind. No I dont see the need to recurve the spring. Short or long as
long as you have enough bolt thread to level your car, you are ok.

[AUTOHOLIC]

Originally Posted by roadpilot

You felt uneasy with short bolts. My suggestion run longer bolts for
peace of mind. No I dont see the need to recurve the spring. Short or long as
long as you have enough bolt thread to level your car, you are ok.

[StudleyJames]

You guys are missing my point, with stock length bolts the car "squats" so I put in 5" long grade 8 bolts and now the car sits level. I replace the bushing also.

The spring "looks fine" but something has to be wrong where the stock length bolts won't work.

My guess the spring is weak, so should I have it re "curved"? or buy new?
(its the original BB spring with 45,000 miles on it)

[AUTOHOLIC]

Just buy a new one. Local spring shops should have the original specs

[Frankie the Fink]

If you are convinced you need a new spring look into Eaton Springs - and be leery of re'arching, it is a big deal....it requires heat and annealing the springs and ain't cheap if done right. Personally, if you have the car sitting level I'd leave it be; read the attachment for the process of re-arching.