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Old 01-24-2014, 9:27pm   #41
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I told Craig we needed my daughters little hands to unlatch the cable from its mount.
Scott
Back when we had the '84 Chevy lowtop conversion van, I had to get Mary to change the back two passenger side spark plugs. Short of attacking it with a sawzall, there was no way my hands were going to fit.

I swear they design the newer vehicles only to be put together , not to be worked on.
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Old 01-24-2014, 9:51pm   #42
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I told Craig we needed my daughters little hands to unlatch the cable from its mount.
Scott
Better start training her
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Old 01-25-2014, 6:49pm   #43
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New (replaced Scott's oops) cable is now in place. Tunnel cover is back on, exhaust is back on and all is well. I spent 3 hours trying to figure out how to get the cable mount to snap into the bracket at the back of the car. Finally went to the auto parts store and bought a long needle nose pliers with 90 degree tip. Was able to snap it into place on the first try. Amazing what the right tool will do for you.

Ran out of daylight, so the trim pieces on the center console are still "somewhat" in place. I should be able to wrap that up tomorrow.
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Old 01-25-2014, 7:03pm   #44
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Old 01-25-2014, 8:14pm   #45
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New (replaced faulty equipment) cable is now in place.
Yeah... Yeah, that's it.

Glad you got 'er buttoned up. That back bracket did look like it was gonna play rough because the plastic tabs didn't have much travel.

Now you really need to get socket adapters for your drill. One of the best things I ever did for saving time on small jobs like this.
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Old 01-25-2014, 8:16pm   #46
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Back when we had the '84 Chevy lowtop conversion van, I had to get Mary to change the back two passenger side spark plugs. Short of attacking it with a sawzall, there was no way my hands were going to fit.

I swear they design the newer vehicles only to be put together , not to be worked on.
Yeah man, the V10 in my other truck is almost impossible to reach #9 and #10

Mary is a good sport
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Old 01-25-2014, 8:16pm   #47
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Yeah... Yeah, that's it.

Glad you got 'er buttoned up. That back bracket did look like it was gonna play rough because the plastic tabs didn't have much travel.

Now you really need to get socket adapters for your drill. One of the best things I ever did for saving time on small jobs like this.
Scott
I used your setup to put back in all 36 bolts, and then tightened each one by hand. It worked wonders. Will definitely get the adapter.
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Old 01-25-2014, 8:49pm   #48
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I used your setup to put back in all 36 bolts, and then tightened each one by hand. It worked wonders. Will definitely get the adapter.
Just glad you got it buttoned up and functioning.

Now we gotta get the girls together for some grillin and
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Old 01-25-2014, 8:50pm   #49
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Just glad you got it buttoned up and functioning.

Now we gotta get the girls together for some grillin and
Scott
Yep!
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Old 01-25-2014, 11:35pm   #50
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c6 is the new c4 ...


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Old 01-26-2014, 1:10pm   #51
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c6 is the new c4 ...


I'm really screwed then!
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Old 01-26-2014, 1:31pm   #52
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At least you are in Florida doing the work instead of up north.
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Old 01-26-2014, 4:38pm   #53
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2006 (auto) left me stranded at Tae Kwon Do last night. Shifter cable ball socket broke, and the car was in neutral. Thank God the E-Brake still has a little bite.

Wife took me back this morning, I disassembled the entire center console, removed the shifter, and drove home by manipulating the cable by hand.

Bright note, it's only a $55 part ($35 because the dealer sponsors me). Sad note, I have to drop the exhaust and that damn tunnel cover with 600 bolts on it.

I guess I have tomorrow afternoon planned out.
Wish I lived closer, I'd come help ya.
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Old 01-26-2014, 6:21pm   #54
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Car now all back together 100%. Only casualty is the plastic boot form for the e-brake. That being said, I think it was broken prior to my ownership, as about 6 inches of the top of it was missing. I glued/taped the lower back corner, and got the boot cover back on with acceptable installation.

Putting that center console back together was a MAJOR pain in the ass. Traction control switch proved to be my toughest part. Fortunately, all electronic connections still work correctly, even with me having to cut the wires to the console power adapter.

Total cost...$50. I'll take the hassles over the $700+ dealer price for the same job quoted by jaxgator.
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