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Old 11-28-2020, 12:13pm   #1
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Default Anyone have media blaster knowledge?

I am wanting to start serious work on my Charger and I'm looking for a functional media blaster. I want to use either walnut or soda with the option for either.

I don't want to spend all my money on tools and have none left for the car. Can a decent (functional with minimal downside) solution be had for around $300.00? (Excluding the actual blast media)

Is this something I could trust to Northern Tool or Harbor Freight?
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Old 11-28-2020, 12:17pm   #2
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MY only comment is I"m tired of listening to the blasted media......
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Old 11-28-2020, 12:24pm   #3
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Whatever you get, get a pressure blaster unless doing just small parts. Worth the extra cash.
They're fairly simple so HF style should be fine.
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Old 11-28-2020, 1:36pm   #4
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Whatever you get, get a pressure blaster unless doing just small parts. Worth the extra cash.
They're fairly simple so HF style should be fine.

Is the the media being under pressure as opposed to gravity fed from a hopper? I don't think I know that term.
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Old 11-28-2020, 2:17pm   #5
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Is the the media being under pressure as opposed to gravity fed from a hopper? I don't think I know that term.
Yes... Gravity fed are ok but not if going to use a decent amount. They're a siphon type actually. The pressure pot units get a better consistent amount. If go siphon type you'll need to replace the hose most likely as they suck and are thin. Plus you can put a slightly longer hose on. Plus side is siphon style are cheap. The dust sucks either way so use a respirator of some type.
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Old 11-28-2020, 2:51pm   #6
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Blasting whole cars requires A LOT of air. Even blasting cabinets need more than "inexpensive" compressors can supply for more than a few minutes at a time. If you intend to blast fenders, doors, subframes etc, I recommend you sub that out especially if your workspace is in a residential area as the process is both noisy and dusty enough to seriously annoy the neighbors.
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Old 11-28-2020, 3:21pm   #7
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Blasting whole cars requires A LOT of air. Even blasting cabinets need more than "inexpensive" compressors can supply for more than a few minutes at a time. If you intend to blast fenders, doors, subframes etc, I recommend you sub that out especially if your workspace is in a residential area as the process is both noisy and dusty enough to seriously annoy the neighbors.

I want to do mostly small parts. Door hinges, Engine compartment accessories and mounting points, control arms, etc. Body panels will only be spot work, not whole panels. That would be a job for pros.
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Old 11-28-2020, 3:23pm   #8
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I want to do mostly small parts. Door hinges, Engine compartment accessories and mounting points, control arms, etc. Body panels will only be spot work, not whole panels. That would be a job for pros.
Spring for a cabinet set up and a small siphon gun then. It will contain much of the mess and dust, plus you get to recycle the media.
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Old 11-28-2020, 3:42pm   #9
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Does require a ton of air, i have a cabinet now as doing more the last few years, mainly to recover the media plus bending over sucks when get old(so I've heard). For what you want to do a siphon would be good. Soda blasting triple the mess... Check Craigslist for a used setup.
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Old 11-28-2020, 4:53pm   #10
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Are you trying to get rid of rust, paint, grease or all of it? There are other methods vs blasting.

Markids77 is right. They use a ton of air. You really need a 2-stage compressor, with large tank or you will the compressor will be playing catch up during the entire process.
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Old 11-28-2020, 5:24pm   #11
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Originally Posted by Rodnok1 View Post
Does require a ton of air, i have a cabinet now as doing more the last few years, mainly to recover the media plus bending over sucks when get old(so I've heard). For what you want to do a siphon would be good. Soda blasting triple the mess... Check Craigslist for a used setup.
Although I could make use of a cabinet, it's not my first choice. I want to roll the car out, hit some spots, apply POR, roll back in. Could be 1 square foot, could be a single door hinge. I want to maximize the purchase.

My compressor is a 4hp 25 gallon, 125psi.
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Old 11-28-2020, 9:04pm   #12
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Although I could make use of a cabinet, it's not my first choice. I want to roll the car out, hit some spots, apply POR, roll back in. Could be 1 square foot, could be a single door hinge. I want to maximize the purchase.

My compressor is a 4hp 25 gallon, 125psi.
The critical spec is the CFM at X pressure. While choosing any set up make certain you buy something suited to the air your compressor can provide... or life will suck forever.
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Old 11-29-2020, 12:44am   #13
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The critical spec is the CFM at X pressure. While choosing any set up make certain you buy something suited to the air your compressor can provide... or life will suck forever.
Can't see the spec anywhere and can't find it on line. That probably means it sucks.
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Old 11-29-2020, 5:36am   #14
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Saw a pic of one for sale on eBay. On the backside of the motor/pump housing, it shows 9scfm @ 40psi; 7scfm @90psi.
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Old 11-29-2020, 5:52pm   #15
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Spring for a cabinet set up and a small siphon gun then. It will contain much of the mess and dust, plus you get to recycle the media.
This ↑ ↑ ↑ ↑

I have restored several cars over 40 yrs. I only used a blaster once. That was enough for me. I was blasting the chassis of my '69 Chevelle SS 396. I forgot and left my wallet in my back pocket. I was wearing to long tail shirts that day. When I finished and was removing my clothes I pulled my wallet out. Every nook and cranny inside it was filled with the blasting media.

If you blast stuff while it's still attached to the car vs. in a cabinet. All that dust and debris will wind up in every nook and cranny. When you come along to paint it at 60 PSI, etc...all that crap will get blown out and around into your fresh paint.
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Old 11-30-2020, 2:14pm   #16
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Just an FYI I heard on one of the car shows. When blasting with soda it changes the PH of the metal and paint won't stick to it unless an additional step is taken to correct that.

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The main question to ask - is a coating going to be re-applied? If so, some sort of neutralizing and cleaning of the surface needs to be done. Baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) has a higher than neutral pH and contains some degree of salt (chlorides). You must have a clean, oil free and pH neutral surface to ensure that you won't have a coatings failure after any type of media blasting. Coating failures after soda blasting can usually be traced back to no pre-paint preparation, poor preparation or incorrect preparation. Baking soda is a wonderful media that allows you to do things that no other media will accomplish, but you need to educate yourself about the media and follow a few simple steps after blasting.
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Old 11-30-2020, 2:21pm   #17
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Just an FYI I heard on one of the car shows. When blasting with soda it changes the PH of the metal and paint won't stick to it unless an additional step is taken to correct that.
How about the walnut shells?
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Old 11-30-2020, 2:30pm   #18
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How about the walnut shells?
I haven't heard of any issues with walnut shells. Matter of fact we used to use crushed walnut shells as a cleaning media for jet engines, while they are running. Makes for a lot of pretty sparks and flames out the tailpipe.
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Old 11-30-2020, 3:32pm   #19
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I haven't heard of any issues with walnut shells. Matter of fact we used to use crushed walnut shells as a cleaning media for jet engines, while they are running. Makes for a lot of pretty sparks and flames out the tailpipe.
Careful, youíll blow your dick off....

Iíve done sand at home with siphon in driveway... small pits and a mess.

Iíve had my 65 vette soda blasted when rebuilding it. Worked great, still messy. Looked like my yard was covered w snow dust till rain washed soda away.

Gotta agree w Jet, check out walnut shells for a cabinet or other. Still a mess but wonít mess w parts
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Old 12-01-2020, 7:51pm   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aerovette View Post
Although I could make use of a cabinet, it's not my first choice. I want to roll the car out, hit some spots, apply POR, roll back in. Could be 1 square foot, could be a single door hinge. I want to maximize the purchase.

My compressor is a 4hp 25 gallon, 125psi.
POR is intended to be a final coat on areas like floors and frames, not as a base for gloss automotive finishes. It may even be chemically incompatible with certain topcoats... do some research.

If you are spot blasting or aggressively stripping outer panels which will eventually get body color I recommend the first paint application to be a catalysed epoxy primer. It is fairly weatherproof and will provide a stable base for fillers, sandable primers and paint.
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