Splash!

[Giraffe (He/Him)]

...

[Giraffe (He/Him)]

Manual, with a cable release. Drop fruit, release shutter. After a few times I got the timing down OK.

Speedlite covered in a plastic Baggie @ 1/128 power pushed right up to the glass. Ideally, 2 speedlites opposite from each other would be perfect.

[Giraffe (He/Him)]

Originally Posted by TxAg

I didn't think they still made cable releases for cameras anymore.

They do, but they're short. Kind of a must for macro stuff where you can't have any camera shake. B&H sells a 30' extension for them.

If you have a Speedlite you've got the major expense covered. The big thing is the adaptor to get the flash off the camera body. $40.00 wasn't too painful.

[DAB]

#2 is cool

[Giraffe (He/Him)]

Originally Posted by TxAg

I've got a SB-900, SB-800 (broken) and SB-600.

If I had another 600 the 900 is supposed to act as a controller to the other flashes and should be able to be set not to fire.

Need to try it out with just the single 600 to see if that works.

If you put one of the flashes on your hot shoe and set the other as a slave, that MAY work. MAY. My guess is it wouldn't due to the fact the slave needs to see the hot shoe mounted flash in order to fire.

Canon and Nikon flashes are a little different. Nikon has been incorporating a PC jack for years. Canon FINALLY just did. My 550 didn't have a PC jack, I had to buy the kit. (The $40.00)

Your flash has to have the capability to work in manual mode too. These shots were all manual on both camera and flash.

[Giraffe (He/Him)]

A slave flash needs to see light in order to fire. Radio triggers don't. Maybe you could knock down the hot shoe flash enough so it didn't affect your exposure but still fire the slave?

The simple solution is a PC cable from your camera to the speedlight.

[Grey Ghost]

Do you have other back drops? I'm think blue would look much better.

[Giraffe (He/Him)]

...

[Nitro-C5]

Nice work Thomas I really like #1 and #3...Love #2!

Was this is a fish tank? Did you have to use a CPL not to get the glass reflection?

[Giraffe (He/Him)]

Yes, a fish bowl. I wouldn't do a bowl again, but it was handy. I got some odd reflections off it. I think a square tank might be better.

No CPL. If you dial down the exposure enough that seems to do the trick. I did put a reflector directly opposite the speedlite to try and add some fill. I worked, sort of.

[Grey Ghost]

Originally Posted by Thomas

I could try to gel the background now that I have the basics down. Black is simple to get in camera so I went with black. There is no backdrop in these, just a chair.


These are the low res versions. The full res shots are much nicer, same with the fruit.

I really hope that is one of those novelty drink mugs. I know the L stuff is weather proof...but....

[Giraffe (He/Him)]

I really hope that is one of those novelty drink mugs

My wife bought it for me. I'm not much of a coffee drinker and I've been wondering what the hell to do with it.

[Nitro-C5]

Originally Posted by TxAg

IIRC they use infrared to "talk" to each other.

Been a while since I messed w/it so my memory might be a big fuzzy.

You are both right. In Thomas's case if he is using another flash it is still IR, but the "Slave" units needs to see the Pre-Flash of the "Master" to fire. If you are using a Non Flash (example: IR trigger) will not send a Pre-Flash but the units still have to see each other. Basically that system is Optical vs. a radio system that does not need to be seen. Optical/IR are great in about 90% of the situation you will shoot in...where they have limitation are when the flashes are great distances apart, cannot be seen because they are in an enclosed box or on a very bright day if shooting outside.

[Giraffe (He/Him)]

...

[Nitro-C5]

Originally Posted by Thomas

FWIW Nitro, I fire mine with Pocket Wizards. This one specifically.

Yeah, I think I read that too quickly. I first thought that you were using one camera flash "Master" to trigger. I have used both radio and optical and really like the radio better myself.