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02-19-2023, 3:56pm | #1 | ||||||
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Two headbolt questions
1. Can I use antisieze as a thread lubricant for assembly?
(If not, why not?) 2. I am hearing that torque values should be adjusted for lubricated threads. If mine are 18 lbs, then three rounds of 90 degrees. How would I adjust torque for torque angle tightening? Thanks, Jeff |
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02-19-2023, 4:02pm | #2 | |||||||
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02-19-2023, 4:04pm | #3 | ||||||
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I'd put the antisieze on them, torque them as described, and not worry anymore about it. You're not building an F1 engine. I think you'll be just fine.
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02-19-2023, 4:10pm | #4 | ||||||
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What I did. |
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02-19-2023, 4:11pm | #5 | ||||||
Chief Electrician
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02-19-2023, 4:14pm | #6 | ||||||
Chief Electrician
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02-19-2023, 4:15pm | #7 | ||||||
Chief Electrician
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02-19-2023, 4:20pm | #8 | ||||||
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ok,there is no re-assembly steps just torque specs,and what engine is it?
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02-19-2023, 5:07pm | #9 | ||||||
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If it's an aluminum block then I'd say yes. If not I wouldn't worry about it. There are special thread lubes out there for just this purpose.
Here is good information: https://www.hextechnology.com/articl...ricant-torque/ |
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02-19-2023, 5:14pm | #10 | ||||||
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1) anything added to dry threads such as oil, grease, never seize, teflon will change torque values.
2) they should if you have an aluminum block. i doubt a cast iron block would know. here are a few charts: https://www.bing.com/search?q=anti+s...ANNTA1&PC=DCTS |
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02-19-2023, 6:18pm | #11 | |||||||
Chief Electrician
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Quote:
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02-19-2023, 6:21pm | #12 | |||||||
Chief Electrician
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Lots of charts for lb-ft but what about angle? |
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02-19-2023, 6:23pm | #13 | ||||||
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02-19-2023, 6:24pm | #14 | ||||||
Chief Electrician
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I'm taking a huge shortcut with this so I'd like to do at least some of it right.
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02-19-2023, 6:28pm | #15 | ||||||
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I suspect the wet torque is around 70% of dry value. So, maybe 13-14, then your 3 turn ups about 74 degrees each.
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02-19-2023, 6:47pm | #16 | ||||||
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02-19-2023, 7:21pm | #17 | ||||||
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Many Manufactures of the bolts will tell what the stretch, for clamping force, will be upon torquing, and some will tell you what lubricant is acceptable, if any.
Rod bolts are most critical, like when using SPS or ARP, for example. I have used anti seize on head bolts and just used torque values in manual |
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02-19-2023, 9:44pm | #18 | ||||||
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Hold on..
If you are using ARP bolts, follow ARP's instructions. If your block has water jackets, you must use teflon sealant. If they go into a solid block, use anti-seize. ARP bolts come with their lubricant. ARP lubricant is not teflon. I used ARP lubricant under the bolt's head and washer. Do not adjust your torque specs. |
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02-19-2023, 9:48pm | #19 | ||||||
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LS blocks use new bolts and some bolts need sealant, as they go into water jacket.
LT1s, cant rememember honestly. But like I said, rod bolts you use what the manufacturer states |
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02-19-2023, 10:57pm | #20 | |||||||
Chief Electrician
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Quote:
It blew a head gasket and I am putting one on it. I did this job in July of 21 and had a cheap degree tool for the bolts AND, they were binding (dry). Surprisingly the job lasted this long but I'd rather get closer to doing it right this time. I can't re-torque without taking the cams out so I want to get it right the first time. I think the radiator flush and fill is what killed it. The head gasket coolant holes were blocked solid with rusty "mud". Related question. I am not getting the head surfaced. Will I know pretty quick if that is a problem or will it show up down the line? I'm repairing this for function not reliability. Great car for someone to haul to Mexico and keep it there. |
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