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Old 12-10-2012, 12:47pm   #61
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HOLY GUACAMOLE !! Awesome.

I have a 74 that is not nearly as rusted as you described. It has a 340 and a 727 Torqueflite. I have owned it since 1978. I just can't find a local shop interested in doing anything with it. They all want CASH now or an insurance check. Love to know what all that rust repair and paint ran you.

Here it is back when I first got it.

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Old 12-10-2012, 12:50pm   #62
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What brand of tires, Mike?
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Old 12-10-2012, 12:53pm   #63
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Just curious about these restorations in general. By the time you've finished the restore, will you have any less money in it that it would require to purchase a new (2012-2013) vehicle of equal value/stature (not that there actually are any).
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Old 12-10-2012, 12:56pm   #64
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Just curious about these restorations in general. By the time you've finished the restore, will you have any less money in it that it would require to purchase a new (2012-2013) vehicle of equal value/stature (not that there actually are any).
For the most part, you can always buy a new car for the cost of restoring an old one, but it's apples and oranges. Actually, more like apples and bowling balls. You restore a car for many reasons, the main one being that you can't go buy a new one.
Million reasons to do it, but its usually, "had one as a kid, Dad had one, always wanted one and now I can afford it" and more rare "bought it new, been waiting to get around to restoring it".
Then there are people like me with short automotive attention spans that are always buying and selling stuff, usually due to circumstance, not actively seeking them out.
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Old 12-10-2012, 1:57pm   #65
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I have a 74 that is not nearly as rusted as you described. It has a 340 and a 727 Torqueflite. I have owned it since 1978. I just can't find a local shop interested in doing anything with it. They all want CASH now or an insurance check. Love to know what all that rust repair and paint ran you.
Once you figure in all the parts I had to buy (replacement emblems, mouldings, etc.) it was close to $7000. Remember that this was not a frame-off or rotisserie restoration which would have been a lot more. We used 5 coats of PPG B7 Blue base and 5 coats of clear.

Nice Charger BTW. I can't believe a shop won't take that on. Are you taking it a regular body shop or one that specializes in restorations?

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What brand of tires, Mike?
BF Goodrich G-Force KDW-2. Size 245/45-17.

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For the most part, you can always buy a new car for the cost of restoring an old one, but it's apples and oranges. Actually, more like apples and bowling balls. You restore a car for many reasons, the main one being that you can't go buy a new one.
Million reasons to do it, but its usually, "had one as a kid, Dad had one, always wanted one and now I can afford it" and more rare "bought it new, been waiting to get around to restoring it".
Then there are people like me with short automotive attention spans that are always buying and selling stuff, usually due to circumstance, not actively seeking them out.


I already have a daily driver. This is nothing more than a hobby. In fact, I get out of my old cars after driving and think "Geez...I drove this every day???"
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Old 12-10-2012, 2:04pm   #66
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Are you taking it a regular body shop or one that specializes in restorations?
I have hit up the independant guys. I am not quite convinced (but getting there) that "restoration" shops in my area do work that reflects the prices they ask. If I had a 50's something and needed lead work, I could see where it needs to be a very particular set of skills needed, but the repairs I need don't seem to be beyond what a typical body shop "should" be able to do. I don't trust that one will give me back a bondo buggy for $5k and the other will give me back a bondo buggy for $20k. I have one shop that I have yet to contact and it seems they may be the one I need from the word of mouth I get.
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Old 12-10-2012, 2:24pm   #67
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I have hit up the independant guys. I am not quite convinced (but getting there) that "restoration" shops in my area do work that reflects the prices they ask. If I had a 50's something and needed lead work, I could see where it needs to be a very particular set of skills needed, but the repairs I need don't seem to be beyond what a typical body shop "should" be able to do. I don't trust that one will give me back a bondo buggy for $5k and the other will give me back a bondo buggy for $20k. I have one shop that I have yet to contact and it seems they may be the one I need from the word of mouth I get.
I see your point. It's always a crap shoot with body shops. But restoration is a pain in the ass as compared to late-model vehicle repairs. You spend a lot of time sourcing parts that may or may not be available. If they are, or they're re-pops, they don't always fit...so you have to make them fit. If they aren't available, you have to hit the junkyards. Then there's putting it all back together. So you're not just paying for the cost of bondo.

I'd call them and see what they're asking. If your car isn't very rusty (unlikely with a Chrysler), you may get off cheaper. It also depends on what you want to do/how far you want to take it.
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Old 12-10-2012, 2:43pm   #68
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I have hit up the independant guys. I am not quite convinced (but getting there) that "restoration" shops in my area do work that reflects the prices they ask. If I had a 50's something and needed lead work, I could see where it needs to be a very particular set of skills needed, but the repairs I need don't seem to be beyond what a typical body shop "should" be able to do. I don't trust that one will give me back a bondo buggy for $5k and the other will give me back a bondo buggy for $20k. I have one shop that I have yet to contact and it seems they may be the one I need from the word of mouth I get.
I have seen some horrendous "resto shops", so you need to be careful. A good portion of my buddy's shop is redoing other shops' work.
In general, a typical body shop wants to do late model collision repair. All paid by insurance, parts come in quick and fit right, rarely doing any rust repair, and the car is out the door. Also, the clientele is less demanding.
Since you seem to be sitting on the car, I would suggest locating a local voc/tech school. They will probably have the car for the whole school year, but it will be done using the latest technology and good materials. My buddy did that with his 83 911 about twelve years ago and it still looks great.
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Old 12-10-2012, 2:45pm   #69
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I see your point. It's always a crap shoot with body shops. But restoration is a pain in the ass as compared to late-model vehicle repairs. You spend a lot of time sourcing parts that may or may not be available. If they are, or they're re-pops, they don't always fit...so you have to make them fit. If they aren't available, you have to hit the junkyards. Then there's putting it all back together. So you're not just paying for the cost of bondo.

I'd call them and see what they're asking. If your car isn't very rusty (unlikely with a Chrysler), you may get off cheaper. It also depends on what you want to do/how far you want to take it.
The worst rust I have is the driver's side inner fenderwell near the firewall and at the back bottom corner of each door. The rest is very minor, surface stuff from the oxidized paint.

I would do help out as much as I could with the entire project if they allowed it. I'll even locate parts. I need a shop that will use it as fill work and do a little at a time. Tell me for example, We're going to rework the rear of both doors. I need a thousand bucks to do it. Ok fine. Let me know when that much is done. The next call is the wheel well and the part is $600.00 an dthe work is $1000.00. I would say ok, give me a month to get the parts money and then 60 days for the labor. ...and so on. Maybe I am not being realistic.
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Old 12-10-2012, 2:57pm   #70
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You think the modern ones will ever be worth any money or are they too mass produced?
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Old 12-10-2012, 3:11pm   #71
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You think the modern ones will ever be worth any money or are they too mass produced?
Hard to say. As far as production numbers go, the cars produced back then kept pace with cars produced now. Charger production hit 120,000 units in 1973. The Mustang sold almost 450,000 cars when it came out. Of course, we didn't have competition from foreign automakers back then. Now, history is repeating itself. Mid-70's and 80's Trans-Ams are going up in value.

I think low-production models will always command good prices. It's just gonna take some time for them to bottom out on their curve.
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Old 12-10-2012, 3:17pm   #72
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Sorry for the hi-jack.
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Old 12-10-2012, 3:19pm   #73
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The worst rust I have is the driver's side inner fenderwell near the firewall and at the back bottom corner of each door. The rest is very minor, surface stuff from the oxidized paint.

I would do help out as much as I could with the entire project if they allowed it. I'll even locate parts. I need a shop that will use it as fill work and do a little at a time. Tell me for example, We're going to rework the rear of both doors. I need a thousand bucks to do it. Ok fine. Let me know when that much is done. The next call is the wheel well and the part is $600.00 an dthe work is $1000.00. I would say ok, give me a month to get the parts money and then 60 days for the labor. ...and so on. Maybe I am not being realistic.
What you're going to run into, is the car takes up space in their shop. They want to work on it while it's there, otherwise, it's taking up space where they could be working on (earning money) something else.
I have a semi valuable Mustang that's in similar shape. My plan, when I decide to do the restoration, is to either save the money before hand, or get a loan while credit is cheap. I'm expecting it's going to run $30k - $40k to get it done right.
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Old 12-10-2012, 3:27pm   #74
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Sorry for the hi-jack.
Perish the thought, my man. Why, tangents are the aphrodisiac of conversation.
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Old 12-10-2012, 4:26pm   #75
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You think the modern ones will ever be worth any money or are they too mass produced?
Electronics will be the downfall of current models' longevity.
Think of all the body module/ABS/sensor stuff in a C5 that would need to be rebuilt 30 years from now.
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Old 12-10-2012, 4:28pm   #76
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. Mid-70's and 80's Trans-Ams are going up in value.

I can't believe what those cars go for now. I practically gave away my 75 back in 2000.
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Old 12-10-2012, 5:02pm   #77
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Electronics will be the downfall of current models' longevity.
Think of all the body module/ABS/sensor stuff in a C5 that would need to be rebuilt 30 years from now.
I have to agree. My wife once had a 1988 Pontiac 6000 to haul the baby around in. About the only complicated thing it had on it was digital dash gauges. When one of them stopped working, it was $1200 to take out the gauge package and send it off to be repaired. Just think how much more complicated (and expensive) all the computers and stuff on cars is going to be to replace/repair (even if parts are available).

Sorry for the hijack, Chef.
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Old 12-10-2012, 5:11pm   #78
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I had a 1989 Buick Reatta with a touchscreen. Way ahead of its time, but when it broke, you were screwed since it controlled everything but the wipers and headlights.
I found one at a junkyard in NH and had it shipped down because the cost to repair it was half the cost of the car.
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Old 12-10-2012, 6:07pm   #79
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Late to the party, but your Bee is looking great!

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[SIZE=2 Now, history is repeating itself. Mid-70's and 80's Trans-Ams are going up in value.[/SIZE]
I'm in the process of restoring my '78 TA Special Edition. Have owned it for 30 years and the skyrocketing values make a resto worth the $$$.
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Old 12-10-2012, 6:19pm   #80
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Sorry for the hijack, Chef.
No worries.

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I can't believe what those cars go for now. I practically gave away my 75 back in 2000.
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Late to the party, but your Bee is looking great!

I'm in the process of restoring my '78 TA Special Edition. Have owned it for 30 years and the skyrocketing values make a resto worth the $$$.
Yep. Especially if you have the T/A 6.6 motor and WS6 Package. My next vehicle (a ways off tho) will be a 1971 or '72 Trans Am with a 455 H.O. and 4-speed. Always loved the '70-'73 front end.
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