💟Final resto 1968 BB💟

[Don Rickles]

Originally Posted by C3C7NIC

What is on there now? Someone else mentioned T3. Have no idea one from another. Looks like headlights to me. 😎

Take a look at this chart, this explains the type of headlights that would have been used from the factory. There are repos available. Not that I’m saying to go the judging route. That would result in even more spending… Small things like headlights are easy and keep the right look.

[Red Baron]

Originally Posted by Don Rickles

Take a look at this chart, this explains the type of headlights that would have been used from the factory. There are repos available. Not that I’m saying to go the judging route. That would result in even more spending… Small things like headlights are easy and keep the right look.

Thanks, Bullet Head. I just printed off that little chart-handy to have.

[markids77]

Originally Posted by C3C7NIC

What is on there now? Someone else mentioned T3. Have no idea one from another. Looks like headlights to me. 😎

You have all 4 bulbs (of some sort). If they all work WGAS what they are since this will never be a restoration... just a resurrection.
FOCUS.

[LATB]

Originally Posted by markids77

You have all 4 bulbs (of some sort). If they all work WGAS what they are since this will never be a restoration... just a resurrection.
FOCUS.

I agree. If one begins going down the NCRS rabbit hole they may

[Don Rickles]

Originally Posted by markids77

You have all 4 bulbs (of some sort). If they all work WGAS what they are since this will never be a restoration... just a resurrection.
FOCUS.

" There are repos available. Not that I’m saying to go the judging route. That would result in even more spending… Small things like headlights are easy and keep the right look."

I give a shit. I posted this as a waiver! Even cars that aren't perfect factory examples, I still do prefer the "original appearance". Similarly to a steering wheel, radio, wipers, etc. Small things that jump out at you when they're NTF....imo

[Don Rickles]

Originally Posted by LATB

I agree. If one begins going down the NCRS rabbit hole they may

My '72 when completed if judged would have earned a third flight IF lucky!. But, I did return the car to its original appearance, on the quick look. Restoration motor, trans was built 2 weeks after the car, deluxe interior (was standard), on and on.

If you saw the car you'd think it was a perfect NCRS candidate.

AND I was really just posting a Headlight TIT bit of information.......

[LATB]

Originally Posted by Don Rickles

My '72 when completed if judged would have earned a third flight IF lucky!. But, I did return the car to its original appearance, on the quick look. Restoration motor, trans was built 2 weeks after the car, deluxe interior (was standard), on and on.

If you saw the car you'd think it was a perfect NCRS candidate.

AND I was really just posting a Headlight TIT bit of information.......

I agree the car should have the original look. But that every nut bolt & screw stuff is not for me.

[markids77]

Originally Posted by Don Rickles

" There are repos available. Not that I’m saying to go the judging route. That would result in even more spending… Small things like headlights are easy and keep the right look."

I give a shit. I posted this as a waiver! Even cars that aren't perfect factory examples, I still do prefer the "original appearance". Similarly to a steering wheel, radio, wipers, etc. Small things that jump out at you when they're NTF....imo

Valid point except this car needs so very much just to become operational and fully assembled that it makes no sense to spend time effort and money doing anything except finishing the build. Once it is completely assembled, registered and on the road the finer details might be worked out... for now though all effort should be directed at turning it from garage art to automobile. It has been off the road so long it almost died of boredom!

[markids77]

Originally Posted by Don Rickles

" There are repos available. Not that I’m saying to go the judging route. That would result in even more spending… Small things like headlights are easy and keep the right look."

I give a shit. I posted this as a waiver! Even cars that aren't perfect factory examples, I still do prefer the "original appearance". Similarly to a steering wheel, radio, wipers, etc. Small things that jump out at you when they're NTF....imo

Should she try and track down a set of original big block ignition wires as well?
I owned a set of steel braided ones once.......

[Don Rickles]

Originally Posted by markids77

Should she try and track down a set of original big block ignition wires as well?
I owned a set of steel braided ones once.......

Well yes....repros not originals.
I took this approach, wires are a good example. I wasn't going to use the old wires that were on the old before rebuilt motor. So I had to buy new wires. Regular Napa wires cost say 45.00.......Date coded, braided will hit you for say 65.00. (they are easily found). I myself would spend the extra money. These are something SEEN when admiring the engine bay. Any part that I could use or restore or reuse would be saved. Anything unseen could go either way, like a battery, a current AC Delco or comparable is fine. I'm not suggesting to go teh nut and bolt route, like I already said.

I myself wouldn't rush through the completion,.....why....take the time to get it done once and for all, no replacing parts back to originals after its up and running.

[C3C7NIC]

Originally Posted by Don Rickles

Well yes....repros not originals.
I took this approach, wires are a good example. I wasn't going to use the old wires that were on the old before rebuilt motor. So I had to buy new wires. Regular Napa wires cost say 45.00.......Date coded, braided will hit you for say 65.00. (they are easily found). I myself would spend the extra money. These are something SEEN when admiring the engine bay. Any part that I could use or restore or reuse would be saved. Anything unseen could go either way, like a battery, a current AC Delco or comparable is fine. I'm not suggesting to go teh nut and bolt route, like I already said.

I myself wouldn't rush through the completion,.....why....take the time to get it done once and for all, no replacing parts back to originals after its up and running.

Your approach might have been fine before being absolutely fuqqed.

In the event you missed it, I paid for a restoration (paint/body/interior) and I now have this. DUB is dead, and think there are several other customers that paid for work that will never be done.

We are VERY IN THE HOLE, much more than most restorations would be.

Goal is to get it road worthy. Anything else we can decide to do later or NOT.

Our E-type jaguar is far more rare and that car IS concourse. Thankfully we are above water w/that one and it is nearly complete.

68 corvettes are not that rare. This car is numbers matching but many of the original parts (that were there) are gone. So we will proceed as best we can doing as much as we can ourselves.

[Don Rickles]

Originally Posted by C3C7NIC

Your approach might have been fine before being absolutely fuqqed.

In the event you missed it, I paid for a restoration (paint/body/interior) and I now have this. DUB is dead, and think there are several other customers that paid for work that will never be done.

We are VERY IN THE HOLE, much more than most restorations would be.

Goal is to get it road worthy. Anything else we can decide to do later or NOT.

Our E-type jaguar is far more rare and that car IS concourse. Thankfully we are above water w/that one and it is nearly complete.

68 corvettes are not that rare. This car is numbers matching but many of the original parts (that were there) are gone. So we will proceed as best we can doing as much as we can ourselves.

No problem, not another word.

[C3C7NIC]

This is a Very broad question.

Getting ready to start console/dash/drivers side stuff ready to go.

Got new bulbs/new fuse kit/ should we also get new cables for tach/speedometer also or if the correct r ones work just stick with what we have?

Trying to research the basics for installing electrical stuff in cars as we literally know the absolute basics.

Tim was able to splice a ground in the rear that was broken/damaged. Confirmed good ground there now. But now to systemically start addressing the console.

Know the drivers side is a complete PITA. Any tips would be great.

[Mr Hole]

Originally Posted by C3C7NIC

This is a Very broad question.

Getting ready to start console/dash/drivers side stuff ready to go.

Got new bulbs/new fuse kit/ should we also get new cables for tach/speedometer also or if the correct r ones work just stick with what we have?

Trying to research the basics for installing electrical stuff in cars as we literally know the absolute basics.

Tim was able to splice a ground in the rear that was broken/damaged. Confirmed good ground there now. But now to systemically start addressing the console.

Know the drivers side is a complete PITA. Any tips would be great.

If I'm not mistaken, you already have the dash out. That being the case, I would absolutely replace the Tach and Spedo cables. No easier time than with the dash out.

[Kevin68]

Originally Posted by C3C7NIC

This is a Very broad question.

Getting ready to start console/dash/drivers side stuff ready to go.

Got new bulbs/new fuse kit/ should we also get new cables for tach/speedometer also or if the correct r ones work just stick with what we have?

Trying to research the basics for installing electrical stuff in cars as we literally know the absolute basics.

Tim was able to splice a ground in the rear that was broken/damaged. Confirmed good ground there now. But now to systemically start addressing the console.

Know the drivers side is a complete PITA. Any tips would be great.

Make sure all the grounds are shiny metal to metal and use dielectric grease on the connections. For the dash wiring, I believe there were two stock grounds (and I could be completely wrong about this since my '68 is not quite stock). One on the birdcage above the left kick panel and one at the transmission hump that has a strap underneath to the frame since all metal on the hump is attached to fiberglass. I also had one in the center of the birdcage below the window frame. Find all the black ground wires on the harness first and and get them connected.

Suspend the harness from the birdcage with zip ties. In multiple places if needed.

Check for continuity across the fuses (no need to pull them).

Work right to left. After the gauge cluster is in you might turn the key and crank for a few seconds to do a light/vacuum check for the gauges, tail light and headlights, wiper door. Neutral safety switch too. Pull the coil wire if you're not ready to start.

For the speedo/tach cables, if they were working before without bouncing, I'd leave them alone. The aftermarket ones seemed cheaply made to me. Pulling them from the sleeve and inspecting/lubing them would be good. The type of lube has many opinions. The AIM will have the factory spec. I've always used a light oil and re-lube as necessary over time. Pulling the cable from the back of the speedo/tach is surprisingly easy, just pay attention to how it is assembled and it will make doing it by feel easier. Push the tab and pull, no tools needed. Someone talked me into axle grease to lube the cables because it stays in place. That was bad advice IMO. There's a thread on it in CFC3.

For the driver's side, remove the steering wheel and drop the column. You might remove the directional signal stalk so you don't bend/break it. The temptation to have lots of slack in the vacuum hoses to the light switch is tempting, but if you do make sure that you get them secured up high enough you can't yank one loose with your foot...ask me how I know. Check that the screw holes are clean and the wire nuts are aligned with the holes on the door frame. Then it is just pushing it in place and getting a screw started. Don't tighten anything until all the screws are in place. All of this is assuming the top dash and A-pillar trim are in place. It doesn't just slide in; there is some pushing that needs to happen and only your judgement can say whether you are pushing hard enough to break something or not.

Good Luck!!

[C3C7NIC]

Originally Posted by Kevin68

Make sure all the grounds are shiny metal to metal and use dielectric grease on the connections. For the dash wiring, I believe there were two stock grounds (and I could be completely wrong about this since my '68 is not quite stock). One on the birdcage above the left kick panel and one at the transmission hump that has a strap underneath to the frame since all metal on the hump is attached to fiberglass. I also had one in the center of the birdcage below the window frame. Find all the black ground wires on the harness first and and get them connected.

Suspend the harness from the birdcage with zip ties. In multiple places if needed.

Check for continuity across the fuses (no need to pull them).

Work right to left. After the gauge cluster is in you might turn the key and crank for a few seconds to do a light/vacuum check for the gauges, tail light and headlights, wiper door. Neutral safety switch too. Pull the coil wire if you're not ready to start.

For the speedo/tach cables, if they were working before without bouncing, I'd leave them alone. The aftermarket ones seemed cheaply made to me. Pulling them from the sleeve and inspecting/lubing them would be good. The type of lube has many opinions. The AIM will have the factory spec. I've always used a light oil and re-lube as necessary over time. Pulling the cable from the back of the speedo/tach is surprisingly easy, just pay attention to how it is assembled and it will make doing it by feel easier. Push the tab and pull, no tools needed. Someone talked me into axle grease to lube the cables because it stays in place. That was bad advice IMO. There's a thread on it in CFC3.

For the driver's side, remove the steering wheel and drop the column. You might remove the directional signal stalk so you don't bend/break it. The temptation to have lots of slack in the vacuum hoses to the light switch is tempting, but if you do make sure that you get them secured up high enough you can't yank one loose with your foot...ask me how I know. Check that the screw holes are clean and the wire nuts are aligned with the holes on the door frame. Then it is just pushing it in place and getting a screw started. Don't tighten anything until all the screws are in place. All of this is assuming the top dash and A-pillar trim are in place. It doesn't just slide in; there is some pushing that needs to happen and only your judgement can say whether you are pushing hard enough to break something or not.

Good Luck!!

Wow. Thank you for all that insight. No upper dash pad, steering column or seat. We didn’t take anything out (one of the problems) as there is no documentation/labeling etc as to how anything goes. We are flying blind.

Thank you again.

[markids77]

Refitting the instrument cluster can be... a bit of a cluster. The harness needs to be strategically tucked into the gaps between lights and gauges... my AIM had a decent illustration of the routing. Basically, if it does not snug itself in without springback, the wires are not in the correct orientation. RESIST the urge to force things, it is possible to break expensive componentry in there. Don't ask me how I know this.....

[C3C7NIC]

Got sway bar link ends installed.

Jim was a huge help w/this one.

Couldn’t get enough bolt threads to put it on, he said jack under the bolt to compress. Bingo. We tried all the other tricks to no avail.




The left one was in a box of random parts that came back with the car, non idea if it even went to my car, but there was only one so had to order replacements.



Someone mentioned double nutting the end. (Sounds naughty to me).

[Old Ben]

Originally Posted by C3C7NIC

Got sway bar link ends installed.

Jim was a huge help w/this one.

Couldn’t get enough bolt threads to put it on, he said jack under the bolt to compress. Bingo. We tried all the other tricks to no avail.


Attachment 100541

The left one was in a box of random parts that came back with the car, non idea if it even went to my car, but there was only one so had to order replacements.

Attachment 100542

Someone mentioned double nutting the end. (Sounds naughty to me).





Attachment 100543

Double nutting the end is the only way to go. The second nut helps keep the first one tight.

[Kevin68]

Originally Posted by C3C7NIC

Wow. Thank you for all that insight. No upper dash pad, steering column or seat. We didn’t take anything out (one of the problems) as there is no documentation/labeling etc as to how anything goes. We are flying blind.

Thank you again.

You're not going to want to hear this, but I'm pretty sure that the upper dash pad HAS to go in first.

There is a pot metal brace that spans between the lower corners of the windshield. There are two cage nuts welded into in the birdcage on each side to bolt this brace in.

The top dash has clips at the front that slide over the lower windshield frame where it is spot welded to the firewall. The top dash is screwed from underneath through the brace and into the top dash. If your lower dash pads are in (and if you have AC...yikes), I don't think you you are going to get all (or any) of those screws in and the top dash will only be secured by the clips and the screws through the lower dash. You would need one long-ass magnetic screwdriver and not touch anything to knock the screw off while threading it blind through a maze of ductwork and wire. Plus, I'd bet at least one to three would be completely inaccessible because they would be blocked by the speedo, tach and/or top vent. Without the screws, I would worry that it will warp or rattle.

You should be OK with the column out as long as the brake/clutch are in and the column brackets are in. If the column was in and dropped you wouldn't have to worry about stabbing the column through the firewall and making sure what goes above and below it are in the correct place. You could also connect the harness to the column wiring without having to do it on your back.

Markids77 comment is a good reminder to get everything behind it tucked in and secured, but I don't think the left side is going to just slide with no resistance. Some part of the left dash assembly is going to be touching something behind it. You're going to have to push a little, and as I said above, use your judgement. It'll take multiple attempts to figure out the source of the resistance.

If the column was in and you hung it with longer than stock bolts it'll support the dash pad without having to completely remove it to make adjustments. it only needs to be lowered a couple or three inches. Without the column in you might consider not connecting the key, headlights and speedo/tach cables on the first dozen or so tries until you are pretty sure you've got everything out of the way and have enough space for the harness plugs when connected. That'll save you from connecting and disconnecting those a bunch of times.