Would You Drive Your C4....... - Page 3

Frizlefrak · 06-15-2011, 10:58am

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sweet 90

Spry, why yes I am. Hey, how about this;
Cool Cat

Hot Dog

See the irony here Friz?

It may get into the low 90's here next week. Would you mind giving me some
tips on staying cool my fried friend

Sure Sweetsie.....just let me grab the ol' garden hose here and I'll help you stay REAL cool.....

MDD LT1 · 06-15-2011, 12:37pm

Quote:

Originally Posted by C4Fanatic

Drove my Z across the Texas panhandle on I-40 a couple weeks ago, it was anywhere from 101-106 the entire trip. Ran 80mph with the A/C on. Water temp ran around 170-180. No big deal.

How did you get it to run so cool, mine runs about 205-215 at 60 MPH in 6th gear with AC on.

PLRX · 06-15-2011, 1:16pm

Quote:

Originally Posted by MDD LT1

How did you get it to run so cool, mine runs about 205-215 at 60 MPH in 6th gear with AC on.

When I ran a stock rad with a stock stat it ran around 190-200 on the freeway.

Ensure your rad is clean and maybe is time for a new stat.

With the 160 stat it ran 177-180 with the stock rad. Using the aluminum rad it runs 170-175. On the freeway driving 70 at 105 F it was at 180. The aluminum radiator makes a big difference.

mike100 · 06-15-2011, 3:27pm

stock radiator is aluminum

I don't really have an problem with an engine running 190-200 degrees personally, but if I was turbo'ed or had high compression running on pump gas, then maybe it would be better to run 180-ish, but I don't see why 200 degrees is bad for anything.

it's a round number and the boiling point of h2o under pressure is well above that. even higher with anti-freeze mixed in.

now 225-230 like oem is a little over the top. Not sure what the design requirement was to have it run so warm.

socalman · 06-15-2011, 4:42pm

Quote:

Originally Posted by mike100

stock radiator is aluminum

I don't really have an problem with an engine running 190-200 degrees personally, but if I was turbo'ed or had high compression running on pump gas, then maybe it would be better to run 180-ish, but I don't see why 200 degrees is bad for anything.

it's a round number and the boiling point of h2o under pressure is well above that. even higher with anti-freeze mixed in.

now 225-230 like oem is a little over the top. Not sure what the design requirement was to have it run so warm.

Mike, I'm sure you know 212 is boiling water, 260 is AF. If 230 (which is only in traffic, no AC on) was bad, these motors would be trashed long ago.

I think the reading is someone skewed higher in the LT motors than in most other engines.
The LT engines have reverse flow, goes through the heads first giving you the higher temps down at the block where the temp sensor is. 'Other' engines cool through the block first where the sensor is located, getting the coolest water (from the radiator) first and I think it makes people un-easy about seeing 228 on a digital temp.

Move the temp sensor on most other V8s up to the heads and 190 would read 210 sitting in traffic.

So I think.

mike100 · 06-15-2011, 5:32pm

Quote:

Originally Posted by socalman

Mike, I'm sure you know 212 is boiling water, 260 is AF. If 230 (which is only in traffic, no AC on) was bad, these motors would be trashed long ago.

I think the reading is someone skewed higher in the LT motors than in most other engines.
The LT engines have reverse flow, goes through the heads first giving you the higher temps down at the block where the temp sensor is. 'Other' engines cool through the block first where the sensor is located, getting the coolest water (from the radiator) first and I think it makes people un-easy about seeing 228 on a digital temp.

Move the temp sensor on most other V8s up to the heads and 190 would read 210 sitting in traffic.

So I think.

good point on the reverse flow...

but also remember that the boiling point of water is reduced at higher elevations (lower pressures) and higher with higher pressures. The rad cap make the radiator a 12-14 psi pressure vessel for that very reason..so the fluid won't vaporize into steam and hydrolock the flow in hot spots.

my response was that people are overly infatuated with round numbers. the engine does not melt at 200 degrees. In the real world though, some people with hard driven cars benefit from octane issues using low temp thermostats and such because the LT1 doesn't have an oil cooler or a large capacity sump so the cooler coolant helps the oil temps too. But the water temp itself is far from warping heads at 200-ish degrees.

I remember once I had a 160 stat and drove a car without a choke or anything in 10 deg F weather...never did warm up...went straight back to a 190 the next day.

socalman · 06-15-2011, 7:37pm

Quote:

Originally Posted by mike100

good point on the reverse flow...

but also remember that the boiling point of water is reduced at higher elevations (lower pressures) and higher with higher pressures. The rad cap make the radiator a 12-14 psi pressure vessel for that very reason..so the fluid won't vaporize into steam and hydrolock the flow in hot spots.

my response was that people are overly infatuated with round numbers. the engine does not melt at 200 degrees. In the real world though, some people with hard driven cars benefit from octane issues using low temp thermostats and such because the LT1 doesn't have an oil cooler or a large capacity sump so the cooler coolant helps the oil temps too. But the water temp itself is far from warping heads at 200-ish degrees.

I remember once I had a 160 stat and drove a car without a choke or anything in 10 deg F weather...never did warm up...went straight back to a 190 the next day.

I'm sure the LT's would run longer (engine life) with cooler temps, reason people get lower T stats, larger radiators etc. I also think part of the design on the LT's is for emissions.

I remember someone posting on CF that they couldn't get heat out of the car driving this past winter in high 20's. There were numerous responses ie. 'using 160 T?', T is stuck? etc. Turned out, he had a 160 T..put the stock one back in and got heat back.

ps. Look at us! we hijacked the Cats thread to actually talk cars.

Guess we should get back on topic. I'm sure driving in 103 temps would be beneficial for the clear coat- no ugly peeling. It will just melt off into one large puddle

Sweet 90 · 06-16-2011, 9:14am

Quote:

Originally Posted by socalman

ps. Look at us! we hijacked the Cats thread to actually talk cars.

Dan, have we ever stayed on topic in the barn?

PLRX · 06-16-2011, 10:01am

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sweet 90

Dan, have we ever stayed on topic in the barn?

Yes, we do. It may reads, sounds and look like we do not stay on topic but, we do. This thread is about driving our Vettes in the heat and we do drive them in the heat. The heat makes people mad and that is the reason all others threads may look off topic.

Crazy from the Heat

Gratuitous Rock Video

Sweet 90 · 06-16-2011, 10:11am

Quote:

Originally Posted by PLRX

Yes, we do. It may reads, sounds and look like we do not stay on topic but, we do. This thread is about driving our Vettes in the heat and we do drive them in the heat. The heat makes people mad and that is the reason all others threads may look off topic.

Well to be honest Pete, the thread was really here just to piss off Frizzie