Advice on my Corvette

[StaticCling]

Many of you know that I did an engine swap on my '73 last year. Along with the engine, I had the transmission rebuilt, new clutch & flywheel, new brake calipers, carb etc. Basically everything outside of the rear end and suspension components. We bought the cabin, and the car kind of went on the backburner.

I was having problems with the fuel line (leaks) on the AED carb, that have apparently been rectified by AED. Yesterday I fabbed up the fuel line from the pump to the carb, and all should be well with the leaks. I used AN fittings/braided hose etc.

Lastly, I'm having some issues with the exhaust geometry, (I'm using the headers I had before), so it's looking like this thing is going to need to be taken to an exhaust shop to get things right. So far I have only ran it with open headers (loud).

The car starts. I've set the initial timing etc. It SEEMS to go into gear ok.

Trouble is, and don't laugh.

I'm terrified to drive it. This is my first engine swap, and I'm worried that something catastrophic is going to happen when I attempt to drive it the first time. My driveway is on an incline, and I'm worried if I move it out of the garage, I won't be able to get it back in if there is a problem.

Also, I reused my old temp sending unit, and for whatever reason I'm not getting the gauge to register anything even when the car has ran for a few minutes. I put a meter on it awhile back and it's getting juice? Only difference was I moved it to the intake (new block doesn't have a provision for a sending unit).

Just apprehensive I guess, I need to get this thing rolling. Any words of encouragement?

[lspencer534]

Originally Posted by chinaski

Many of you know that I did an engine swap on my '73 last year. Along with the engine, I had the transmission rebuilt, new clutch & flywheel, new brake calipers, carb etc. Basically everything outside of the rear end and suspension components. We bought the cabin, and the car kind of went on the backburner.

I was having problems with the fuel line (leaks) on the AED carb, that have apparently been rectified by AED. Yesterday I fabbed up the fuel line from the pump to the carb, and all should be well with the leaks. I used AN fittings/braided hose etc.

Lastly, I'm having some issues with the exhaust geometry, (I'm using the headers I had before), so it's looking like this thing is going to need to be taken to an exhaust shop to get things right. So far I have only ran it with open headers (loud).

The car starts. I've set the initial timing etc. It SEEMS to go into gear ok.

Trouble is, and don't laugh.

I'm terrified to drive it. This is my first engine swap, and I'm worried that something catastrophic is going to happen when I attempt to drive it the first time. My driveway is on an incline, and I'm worried if I move it out of the garage, I won't be able to get it back in if there is a problem.

Also, I reused my old temp sending unit, and for whatever reason I'm not getting the gauge to register anything even when the car has ran for a few minutes. I put a meter on it awhile back and it's getting juice? Only difference was I moved it to the intake (new block doesn't have a provision for a sending unit).

Just apprehensive I guess, I need to get this thing rolling. Any words of encouragement?

How did you use your old temp sending unit if the new block doesn't have a provision for a sending unit?

[m and t's77]

Got triple A? If so go for it already,bet when its all said and done you will have a huge smile and sense of accomplishment on your face.As for the water temp what style block did you use.Newer block prolly means its in a different location.

[StaticCling]

Originally Posted by m and t's77

Got triple A? If so go for it already,bet when its all said and done you will have a huge smile and sense of accomplishment on your face.As for the water temp what style block did you use.Newer block prolly means its in a different location.

Yeah, block is newer. Sending Unit threads into one of the intake manifold ports.

[StaticCling]

Originally Posted by lspencer534

How did you use your old temp sending unit if the new block doesn't have a provision for a sending unit?

water temp, not oil.

[m and t's77]

Originally Posted by chinaski

Yeah, block is newer. Sending Unit threads into one of the intake manifold ports.

Metric threads? If so can you get the proper sender unit install it and either get a connector for it at a junkyard and splice the wiring or fab your wire to the unit itself?

[86RAG]

Did you actually run it long enough to register a temp change? Also, it's possible that in the intake location it doesn't reach low enough in to the coolant to register. Maybe the boss it screws into is much thicker? And like Mike said, just drive it, you'll be OK!

[markids77]

If the brakes work, and the e-brake functions in case the rest quit, make sure your cell is charged and in the car and go for a ride. First one just to the bottom of the drive and back a few times? Then a bit farther if nothing explodes or geysers steam. Third ride should be to the exhaust place after you do a nut, bolt and fluid check. Go for it... I bet it will be perfect!

[Grey Ghost]

Originally Posted by markids77

If the brakes work, and the e-brake functions in case the rest quit, make sure your cell is charged and in the car and go for a ride. First one just to the bottom of the drive and back a few times? Then a bit farther if nothing explodes or geysers steam. Third ride should be to the exhaust place after you do a nut, bolt and fluid check. Go for it... I bet it will be perfect!

Exactly.

You will also need a 4-wheel alignment.

[JRD77VET]

Originally Posted by markids77

If the brakes work, and the e-brake functions in case the rest quit, make sure your cell is charged and in the car and go for a ride. First one just to the bottom of the drive and back a few times? Then a bit farther if nothing explodes or geysers steam. Third ride should be to the exhaust place after you do a nut, bolt and fluid check. Go for it... I bet it will be perfect!

Do a check list again if you are in doubt. The engine has already been dyno'd so that won't be a problem. ( watch temps and fluids )

You know the electrical is fine since it already ran.

Have a friend with a car trailer? Have him on standby if you're that worried.

One suggestion would be to wait for the exhaust work to be done at the shop. That way you know it was run "in a kind and considerate way".

[Steve Austin]

Originally Posted by chinaski

Many of you know that I did an engine swap on my '73 last year. Along with the engine, I had the transmission rebuilt, new clutch & flywheel, new brake calipers, carb etc. Basically everything outside of the rear end and suspension components. We bought the cabin, and the car kind of went on the backburner.

I was having problems with the fuel line (leaks) on the AED carb, that have apparently been rectified by AED. Yesterday I fabbed up the fuel line from the pump to the carb, and all should be well with the leaks. I used AN fittings/braided hose etc.

Lastly, I'm having some issues with the exhaust geometry, (I'm using the headers I had before), so it's looking like this thing is going to need to be taken to an exhaust shop to get things right. So far I have only ran it with open headers (loud).

The car starts. I've set the initial timing etc. It SEEMS to go into gear ok.

Trouble is, and don't laugh.

I'm terrified to drive it. This is my first engine swap, and I'm worried that something catastrophic is going to happen when I attempt to drive it the first time. My driveway is on an incline, and I'm worried if I move it out of the garage, I won't be able to get it back in if there is a problem.

Also, I reused my old temp sending unit, and for whatever reason I'm not getting the gauge to register anything even when the car has ran for a few minutes. I put a meter on it awhile back and it's getting juice? Only difference was I moved it to the intake (new block doesn't have a provision for a sending unit).

Just apprehensive I guess, I need to get this thing rolling. Any words of encouragement?

If it has a flat tappet cam, follow the cam grinders instructions for break in. Usually 20 minutes at 1500 RPM or something similar. Make sure its not overheating. If it stays cool and the liquids dont leak, drive it.

[StaticCling]

Originally Posted by 86RAG

Did you actually run it long enough to register a temp change? Also, it's possible that in the intake location it doesn't reach low enough in to the coolant to register. Maybe the boss it screws into is much thicker? And like Mike said, just drive it, you'll be OK!

That's definitely a possibility.

[StaticCling]

Originally Posted by m and t's77

Metric threads? If so can you get the proper sender unit install it and either get a connector for it at a junkyard and splice the wiring or fab your wire to the unit itself?

Prob is, from what I have read, the Sending units on the C3's are actually calibrated to the gauge itself, so buying an aftermarket one will not give a correct reading.

Maybe I should just get an aftermarket temp gauge and install it for the preliminary's until I get the actual gauge issue worked out...

[JRD77VET]

Originally Posted by chinaski

Prob is, from what I have read, the Sending units on the C3's are actually calibrated to the gauge itself, so buying an aftermarket one will not give a correct reading.

Maybe I should just get an aftermarket temp gauge and install it for the preliminary's until I get the actual gauge issue worked out...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sunpro-2-Mec...67b80b&vxp=mtr

$17.89 shipped

[DukeAllen]

If you're afraid, give it to me. I'd drive the wheels off. (And if this doesn't encourage you, nothing will)

[Sea Six]

Relax.


You got this.

[Kerrmudgeon]

Go ahead, bust your cherry! Drive the first motor swap YOU did. The sense of accomplishment feels amazing. I did my first when I was 17 and remember it well. I walked around like a new father for a week.

Go to HB and get and infra red temp reader for about 20 bucks or less. You can bounce the beam off any part to see what temps it's running at. Damn gauges don't read right lot of the time anyway.

[StaticCling]

Originally Posted by 86RAG

Did you actually run it long enough to register a temp change? Also, it's possible that in the intake location it doesn't reach low enough in to the coolant to register. Maybe the boss it screws into is much thicker? And like Mike said, just drive it, you'll be OK!

Correct.

Update. I played with it last night, removed the temp sender from it's current location and relocated it closer to the Thermostat housing. It wasn't getting coolant where it was before, so this problem should be solved.

[86RAG]

Originally Posted by chinaski

Correct.

Update. I played with it last night, removed the temp sender from it's current location and relocated it closer to the Thermostat housing. It wasn't getting coolant where it was before, so this problem should be solved.

Excellent. Glad to hear I got one right!

[The Cripp]

Go for it!