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Old 01-21-2020, 8:06pm   #1
Grey Ghost
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Default Drum brake shoe retainer spring question

I've changed plenty of disc brakes before. First time with drum shoes.

I got new shoes, hardware kit, wheel cylinder.

The new hardware kit has 2 different length spring retainers for the shoes. My old ones look pretty close to the same length vs a good difference in size in the new kit. I can't find it now...but, someone said the longer one either goes to the front or rear shoe? I can't remember why...or which way is correct?

'74 C10

thnx

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Old 01-21-2020, 8:09pm   #2
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I got nuttin. haven't touched drum brakes since about 1986 or so.
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Old 01-21-2020, 8:12pm   #3
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Old 01-21-2020, 8:21pm   #4
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Been a few years since I have done drum brakes but if I recall correctly the pins should be the same length. I would think the retainers should be the same depth also.
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Old 01-21-2020, 8:23pm   #5
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Sure you got the correct kit? Maybe the supplier screwed up
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Old 01-21-2020, 8:36pm   #6
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Been a long time for me changing drums but I did find this video (Part 6) of a guy changing his rear drums on a C10:

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Old 01-21-2020, 9:01pm   #7
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Been a long time for me changing drums but I did find this video (Part 6) of a guy changing his rear drums on a C10:

PART 6 CHEVY REAR BRAKE REPAIR | Chevrolet C10 Trucks - YouTube
That's it!!! Just like mine. The kit contains yellow and green springs of different length. Many thanks!
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Old 01-21-2020, 9:06pm   #8
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Make sure you put the shoes in the right place as well.
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Old 01-21-2020, 9:15pm   #9
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Something happened the other day that caused me to do this job. The drivers side (one in the picture) locked up away from home. I wasn't too far away and got it back home, but it was about to be smoking hot. I don't know what failed or came apart to cause it to lock up or create excessive drag on that wheel. I could actually tell while driving that it was stuck and causing the wheel not to turn easily. I do remember trying to bleed the brakes awhile back and hardly any fluid came out of that wheel cylinder. The other side seemed to bleed just fine. That particular one had very little fluid to come out. I am hoping the new wheel cylinder and other hardware fixes the issue.
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Old 01-21-2020, 9:38pm   #10
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Post a pic of the truck.
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Old 01-21-2020, 9:40pm   #11
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I've only seen them the same size.
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Old 01-21-2020, 9:56pm   #12
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Post a pic of the truck.
1974 SWB survivor. One family owned. About 78k on it. Original paint. Was ordered with 'deluxe wheel covers' which I haven't changed out. All original paperwork - invoice, build sheet, etc...his family also had a '69 SWB that I chased after him to sell me. He popped up one day and said they had this '74 they would sell. Never advertised, etc...I jumped at it. Love the square body trucks now.

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Old 01-21-2020, 9:57pm   #13
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Quote:
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1974 SWB survivor. One family owned. About 78k on it. Original paint. Was ordered with 'deluxe wheel covers' which I haven't changed out. All original paperwork - invoice, build sheet, etc...his family also had a '69 SWB that I chased after him to sell me. He popped up one day and said they had this '74 they would sell. Never advertised, etc...I jumped at it. Love the square body trucks now.

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Old 01-21-2020, 9:58pm   #14
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Nice truck.
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Old 01-21-2020, 9:59pm   #15
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RMvette
Are you a midyear guy? I used to haunt the CF C1/C2 section when I had my '65 and '66. Haven't been on there in years.
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Old 01-21-2020, 10:06pm   #16
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Quote:
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RMvette
Are you a midyear guy? I used to haunt the CF C1/C2 section when I had my '65 and '66. Haven't been on there in years.
63 vert here. Love the truck.
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Old 01-22-2020, 5:02am   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grey Ghost View Post
Something happened the other day that caused me to do this job. The drivers side (one in the picture) locked up away from home. I wasn't too far away and got it back home, but it was about to be smoking hot. I don't know what failed or came apart to cause it to lock up or create excessive drag on that wheel. I could actually tell while driving that it was stuck and causing the wheel not to turn easily. I do remember trying to bleed the brakes awhile back and hardly any fluid came out of that wheel cylinder. The other side seemed to bleed just fine. That particular one had very little fluid to come out. I am hoping the new wheel cylinder and other hardware fixes the issue.

Brake shoes on backwards. Or springs put on in wrong order will do it. But looking at your pic I would guess yours is just a bad rubber brake hose on that side. Best to replace all and give it a good flush.
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Old 01-22-2020, 6:05am   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grey Ghost View Post
RMvette
Are you a midyear guy? I used to haunt the CF C1/C2 section when I had my '65 and '66. Haven't been on there in years.
No sir but I've always wanted a C2! I have a '98 C5 and a '70 C3 that I restored. Unfortunately both are going to be sold this year.... kids are growing and college is looming for my daughter.

This is my '70:

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Old 01-22-2020, 7:02am   #19
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Originally Posted by RMVette View Post
No sir but I've always wanted a C2! I have a '98 C5 and a '70 C3 that I restored. Unfortunately both are going to be sold this year.... kids are growing and college is looming for my daughter.

This is my '70:

IMG 2502 - YouTube
ONLY way in HELL I would sell that car for any 'college' is if they study HARD SCIENCE, Engineering, Business/law/fin/econ/mktg.....ALL else is liberal farts and not worth paying to know....it's HOBBY material....study for free off the .net
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Old 01-22-2020, 7:04am   #20
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I always changed drums out one side at a time. Have the other side opened up to use as a visual reference. Remember to never touch the brake pedal when the drum is off, things/springs will go flying. As someone else said make sure you have the correct shoe on the front and back, one shoe is longer than the other. Also make sure you don't put both longs or both shorts on the same side.
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