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Old 06-01-2012, 11:41pm   #1
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Default C3 frame weld life = 39 years

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I finally got around to putting jack stands under my 73 so I could get a better look. Here's what I found.









Looks like the engine will have to come out in order to get access to weld the parts back together. I guess now I have to decide whether to disassemble it here at the house and try to get someone to come here and weld it, or just load it onto a flatbed and take it to someone who can do all the work for me.
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Old 06-01-2012, 11:55pm   #2
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Damn, that's too bad Kevin.

Please keep us (ok, ME!!) up to date with developments on this.
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Old 06-02-2012, 2:44pm   #3
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Looks pretty twisted up also...

( I guess I ought to look at mine....)
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Old 06-03-2012, 4:47pm   #4
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Seeing these pics makes me want to have those points reinforced on the 71 before long.

I upgraded the suspension last summer with the VBP Street and Slalom kit, and didn't notice anything (other than the front right lower control arm was fubar).

It's not like a visual inspection is gonna show the welds getting weak....
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Old 06-03-2012, 4:51pm   #5
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Seeing these pics makes me want to have those points reinforced on the 71 before long.

I upgraded the suspension last summer with the VBP Street and Slalom kit, and didn't notice anything (other than the front right lower control arm was fubar).

It's not like a visual inspection is gonna show the welds getting weak....
How do you like it? I've installed one on mine too, just haven't driven it yet. I think I have both sides of the spring on the #3 position and I haven't gotten to adjust ride height yet either.

Comfy? Sporty? Twitchy? Harsh?
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Old 06-04-2012, 6:22pm   #6
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Seeing these pics makes me want to have those points reinforced on the 71 before long.

I upgraded the suspension last summer with the VBP Street and Slalom kit, and didn't notice anything (other than the front right lower control arm was fubar).

It's not like a visual inspection is gonna show the welds getting weak....
The power steering pump pulley sits directly above this point on the crossmember. Unless you pull the engine (or at least the alt and ps pump) it is impossible to see the welds.

I installed the engine in mine in 2006, and while I had it apart I completely stripped the paint off the frame and repainted, so I got a good look at everything. I didn't see any problems at all then. I guess the crack either formed after I put the new engine in, or it was so small that I couldn't see it even with the paint stripped.


I haven't been able to do anything with it yet, beyond pulling the wheel and taking pics. The biggest problem I have right now is that I pulled the car into the garage forward and I doubt there is enough room to get a hoist in there to pull the engine. I need to try to secure the control arm mount temporarily well enough so I can pull it out of the garage, turn it around, and have it be able to roll out into the driveway so I can pull the engine in the open.
I'm thinking I might be able to get a chain vice grip around it and the broken upper bracket and that might hold it well enough for me to do that.

I will probably upgrade the front suspension while I'm at it too.
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Old 06-04-2012, 8:16pm   #7
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Well it worked! I used 3 different jacks and a come along to force the control arm back close to it's original position, then got a chain vice grip around the cross shaft and the little bit of bracket that was still attached to the crossmember. I was able to back the car out of the garage, up the driveway, then do a careful 12 point turn in the alley and back it back down the driveway into the garage.
I have met Bubba, and he is me!

Now I can start disconnecting everything from the engine and readying it for removal.
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Old 06-04-2012, 8:36pm   #8
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How do you like it? I've installed one on mine too, just haven't driven it yet. I think I have both sides of the spring on the #3 position and I haven't gotten to adjust ride height yet either.

Comfy? Sporty? Twitchy? Harsh?

Sporty

I did the steering box, PS pump, ball joints, and control arm bushings while at it. It drives great, firm but not too harsh, and the adjustable rear struts made it easy to get a very good alignment.

One thing on setting the ride height, the rear left side is at the end of the bolt, and it needs another 1/4 inch to be perfect, but I'm 99% sure it's caused by the body mounts... That's a project for another year...
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Old 06-04-2012, 8:38pm   #9
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Originally Posted by Kevin_73 View Post
Well it worked! I used 3 different jacks and a come along to force the control arm back close to it's original position, then got a chain vice grip around the cross shaft and the little bit of bracket that was still attached to the crossmember. I was able to back the car out of the garage, up the driveway, then do a careful 12 point turn in the alley and back it back down the driveway into the garage.
I have met Bubba, and he is me!

Now I can start disconnecting everything from the engine and readying it for removal.

Nice job. Ya gotta do what ya gotta do.....
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Old 07-01-2012, 12:06pm   #10
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Update.

The engine is completely disconnected and ready to come out. Just need to rent a engine hoist for a couple of hours, but unfortunately United rentals isn't open on the weekends.

With the fan and power steering pump out of the way it is much easier to see the extent of the damage though.

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Old 07-13-2012, 6:15am   #11
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Should be fine with the chain holding it, I'm thinking.

Hey, check this out!
http://www.vetteweb.com/tech/vemp_11.../photo_13.html

Last edited by Dave; 07-13-2012 at 6:40am.
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Old 07-18-2012, 3:07pm   #12
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Quote:
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Should be fine with the chain holding it, I'm thinking.

Hey, check this out!
Corvette Frame Restoration Photo 13
Thanks Dave!
I was thinking about adding a gusset. Glad a came back to look at this thread before I had the new parts welded in. Guess I need to cut some gussets out tonight before he shows up.
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Old 08-16-2015, 12:14am   #13
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I just thought I would post a few photos of my frame I am reinforcing it completely and I will post more photos as I go.









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