Tachometer

[PortDawg]

Anyone have any experience with Tachometers? Mine is broken.

Broken as in the one on my 79 stays up at 3500 - 3700 RpM and wiggles around.

[lscray]

I found this on CF - stuff I didn't know. I have a friend's 76 in my shop and his acts strange too. We're not anywhere close to worrying about the tach not working right now - bigger fish to fry before we get to that point. I don't know if this guy knows what he's talking about, but it sounds good:

1. The tach circuit board is the most likely problem why the tach is not working, or working correctly, but not always. On 1975-76 Corvette tach the printed circuit board usually show a burned spot, actually melts the thin copper wire and the problem is obvious.
2. Checks to do to see if the tachometer is working for 1975 to 1982 Corvettes, or if 12 volts or ground are missing, or the signal from the distributor is missing. The tach needle usually stays about 1000 to 1500 RPMs ,when the vehicle is off, this is normal .Turn the key to the on position engine not running, the needle should go to zero. If the needle goes to zero this indicates the tach is working and 12 volts and ground are present. If the needle does not move,either the circuit board is bad or 12 volts or ground are missing to the tach. Remove the tach from the dash and apply 12 volts and ground, tach should go to zero if working. Now , start the engine, if the tach does not move off zero, the signal from the distributor is missing, the likely problem is the tach filter, follow the wire from the distributor cap, can't miss it, about the size of your thumb. Use a wire and bypass the tach filter all together.( Disconnect both ends completely.) If the tach works now ,that your problem.The Tach filter also, if not working correctly makes the tach work erratically, jumps around, etc. bypass if you think it's bad. On a lot of 1978 to 82 Corvette the problem is the tach is reading to high, 1000 to 2000 or more to high, Circuit board is bad, need a new board. Also on 1978-82, sometimes the needle pegs past 7000 RPMs, it stay there because it can't get back to zero because it's bottoming out .You need to move it back to zero by hand, take the lens off. If it pegs to the bottom out again eitheron the zero side or 7000 side, then the board is bad.
3.All these instructions assume we are dealing with a factory tach and wiring etc, that has not been messed with or replaced, etc. Note, if the needle is removed for any reason, you just can't put it back on at any place and expect it to read right.(IT's not like Speedometers, also Speedo and Tach needles are different ). To rezero the needle 12 volts and ground must be applied to the tach, then the needle must be set on so it reads zero. Also re zeroing is not calibration, also switching circuit boards, 1978-79 only, 1980-82 only. 1980 to 82 tachs have a hole for the choke light, 1978-79 don't have this hole.1978-79 tachs Calibrate differently from 1980 to 82. Another problem in warmer climates, the needle has a dampening effect, there is oil inside the meter head, if this dry's up, the needle swings freely and causes it not to settle down .fluctuate a lot .A new circuit board will not fix this problem.

4. Purchasing a new circuit board, *** Note, the original G.M., Delco circuit board sold over the counter were not calibrated, so buying a new old stock board will not make your tach work.

FIRST, ask if the circuit board is calibrated to read correctly for your year corvette, if not don't buy it, you need special equipment to calibrate it. .

TWO, Does it come with instructions, how to re zero the needle ,(a must for 1975-1976 tachs),possible problems you may encounter, etc..

THREE, are there three insulating washer, if yes, stay away,these type have problems. I believe there made in China. Good Luck.

[Entropy]

I'd talk to lars.

He's the carb and ignition guru.

This is his email. It might take him a few days to get back to you, but this guy knows his stuff.
[email protected]

[Neutron]

Originally Posted by Entropy

I'd talk to lars.

He's the carb and ignition guru.

This is his email. It might take him a few days to get back to you, but this guy knows his stuff.
[email protected]

Had no idea LATB was a carb guru.

[Entropy]

Originally Posted by Neutron

Had no idea LATB was a carb guru.

LATB is a tool, and doesn't know crap about cars.

Lars is an aerospace engineer for Lockheed Martin. Serious.

He worked on my car after I had the engine rebuilt. I drove to Chicago to have him do it. Totally worth the trip.

[SteveG75]

Sounds like a circuit board. Zip has them as well and you can get it next day. Only issue is taking the dash apart to replace it. Took me 3 hours on the '75. '79 should be quicker.

[rave3c0]

I had the same problem in my '79, it was the circuit board. Ordered a replacement from Zip and it got here the next day! Make sure your order for the correct year as they are callibrated diferently.

[PortDawg]

Finally got it fixed. It was the circuit board.

[buzzardz_vette]

My tach was doing the exact same thing. Took it out and saw the scorch marks on the circuit board. One of the metal circuit lines was melted and pealed away from the board. I sent it to Willcox Parts. He's working on it now.

BTW, are you going to the VA Fall Classic next weekend (23 Oct)? I'm going with my club, Colonial Corvette Club. You should join us.

[SanDiegoPaul]

Originally Posted by entropy

i'd talk to lars.

He's the carb and ignition guru.

This is his email. It might take him a few days to get back to you, but this guy knows his stuff.
[email protected]

no question he is 'da man!!!