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Old 04-12-2012, 12:41pm   #81
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So I thought I was going to just upgrade my barkes and rotors but its never that simple.
I spent most of the day Saturday and every evening after work cleaning my suspension it was filthy. I'm surprised how long it took to clean it all up. I used dawn and a brass brush.

Here is the Old set up. Notice the black gunk just above the rotor. This is what the entire knuckle looked like. YUK!



Here is one side done.. and don't worry I'm using my old pads for now to take care of the over spray and then going with new pads after a couple hundred miles.

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Old 04-17-2012, 8:51pm   #82
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I tapped my WP today. I was going to run a T to the radiator but once done i didn't like the way it looked. I ordered a 1/4 NPT 90 and Tap. I drilled a pilot 1/4 hole then 5/16 ending with 7/16 hole. I then used a 1/4 NPT tap. In the first picture you can see I put a hose in the water neck with a vacuum taped to it. This keeps the shavings from falling into the WP. Tomorrow I will get a hose hooked up and we are one step closer.



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Old 04-18-2012, 12:56pm   #83
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Old 04-24-2012, 3:46pm   #84
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After the swap is finished will you have to worry about under hood heat when parked???







JK... Bump
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Old 04-27-2012, 8:18am   #85
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After the swap is finished will you have to worry about under hood heat when parked???







JK... Bump

I'm going to put a rotisserie in the garage and turn my car upside down when I park so the heat will dissipate.
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Old 04-28-2012, 6:43am   #86
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Quote:
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I'm going to put a rotisserie in the garage and turn my car upside down when I park so the heat will dissipate.
Pics are required...
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Old 04-28-2012, 12:10pm   #87
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spent the afternoon buttoning under the hood. All lines are back on. The coil brackets and coils are back on and the right coil bracket has clearance to fit.
Tomorrow I will finally bolt up the exhaust for the last time.

The right coil bracket was touching the fire wall. I took the edge off with a cut off wheel and it fits nicely now.

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Old 04-29-2012, 7:22pm   #88
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My intention was to bolt up the exhaust on Saturday but i got under the car and realized I needed to run the trans harness back before could bolt up the exhaust. As a result the Wiring harness is now in place.


It all lined up very well now I need to wire it up. One cool thing is the Camaro oil sensor and C5 oil temp sensor plugged right in to the C4 harness.

I needed to find a place for my IAT. I also needed to plug the hole in my SLP claw where the AIR is plumed on an LT1. I took a 5/16 drill bit and drilled a hole in a rubber plug the with a round file I worked it until it fit snug. Rubber will tear when you drill it. I also had to flip the MAF on its side it was rubbing the radiator hose.





With that out of the way I worked on my exhaust most of the day unfortunately I will need to take the drivers side cat out and have the cat moved forward a bit it rubs the floorboard.

Pass:




Drivers:

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Old 05-09-2012, 6:29pm   #89
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I am about to start on the wiring I will be documenting as I go along. Enter at your own risk.

My 91 alternator is a 3 wire set up:
Red is hot 16ga to a fusible link
Brown is the light
pink/blk 12V exciter

The Corvette LS1 is:
S 16ga RED Battery Positive Voltage

F 18ga GRY Generator Field Duty Cycle Signal

L 18ga RED Generator Turn On Signal
Soooo..
Red 91 16ga wire to 16ga RED Battery Positive Voltage on LS1

Brown 91 wire to F 18ga GRY Generator Field Duty Cycle Signal

The pink/blk 91 wire is not used

The wire from the old Camaro plug goes to L 18ga RED Generator Turn On
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Old 05-09-2012, 9:00pm   #90
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I trimmed the 91 PCM tray and with the LS1 PCM mocked up I have almost an inch of clearance from the hood. With the inner fender off I put a one inch spark plug box on top for reference. I'm thinking of welding a couple of studs to the cover(it comes off and is metal) to secure it to the tray.





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Old 06-09-2012, 8:38pm   #91
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I spent most of the day doing the wiring. I wired the LS coils/Injectors to the original L98 INJ1 and INJ2 circuits.The wires from the old L98 harness to the LS PCM have been extended. Th grounds are hooked up and the 12V switched have been wired to a fuse block I screwed in under the drivers side hood latch frame rail. I figured its protected from something randomly dropped in the engine bay and the weather there.

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Old 06-18-2012, 1:56pm   #92
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Here is a condensed version of all my notes. As far as the wiring goes its all done except for the OBDII port.

L98 ECM To LS1 PCM

C6 TPI PCM ground-----------------------------B1,B10,R1,R40 LS1 PCM ground

A3 secondary cooling fan DK blue/white ---------R33 cooling fan 2 relay

A9 primary cooling fan Lt blu/blk-----------------B42 cooling fan 1 relay

D7 fuel pump realy drive green/white-----------R9 Fuel pump relay control

B3 diagnostic test terminal White/blk-------------B58 class 2 serial (unpinned from TPI ALDL to LS ALDL)

B5,B11 serial data Tan---------------------------B14 ?UART 800 bus serial? (this may not work)

B6 VATTS DK/Blue -----------------------------R30 Fuel enable

B8 PPM CCM radio DK Grn/white------------------R50 Vehicle speed output

B10 12 V Ignition feed PNK/BLK-------------------B19 ignition pos volt

C1,B17 constant 12V ORG -----------------------B20,B57 constant 12V to PCM

D11 Neutral Safety Switch ORG/BlK---------------B34 PNP switch signal

Purple wire from brake switch--------------------B33 TCC brake switch

B1 black/white SES light -------------------------R46 Malfunction Indicator Lamp

White wire that went to Tach filter-----------------R10 Tach

Save INJ1 and INJ2 from TPI and connect to Pink wires on LS harness Coil/Injector drives 1 and 2

And here sits My LSX ready to run when I get my oil sender adapter. The PCM fit nicely I plan on repining the wires some day and organize them better. I also need to either replace the cheap fuse box with something better or solder it all to a fuselink once I know its working.


Last edited by Ch@0s; 06-23-2012 at 8:03pm.
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Old 06-20-2012, 9:09pm   #93
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Here it is guys I started it up for a few seconds. I know there is an exhaust leak. .Sorry about the video quality.
For some reason my oil gauge is pegged. It's running rich and the Ck eng light is on.
But "Number 5 is alive"

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Old 06-22-2012, 4:29am   #94
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Old 07-01-2012, 3:58pm   #95
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The last of the wiring is done now. I just need to figure out why the oil gauge is pegged.

On the left the OBDI ALDL on the right the OBDII ALDL.



I only cut one wire out of the OBDI it was meant to go to B3 on the L98 PCM and was the air pressure monitor wire. My VEH does not have air pressure monitor so I used this wire to feed the new OBDII port serial data to pin 2. Pins 4 and 5 I spliced into the OBDI ALDL ground ..they share that now. Pin 16 on the OBDII ALDL went to a 12 V constant.



My fans are now working and the only Code that remains after running the car through one heat cycle is P0425 Evaporative Emission System Pressure Sensor/Switch Low. That is emissions related and just need to be deleted out of the tune. It is still running a little rich and I suspect it just needs to be tuned better. Now that I have a scan tool I can tell my Tach is working perfectly. The funny thing is my Tach has always read high almost 25%..

This afternoon I am going to drop it and try to take it for a Spin.
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Old 08-10-2012, 7:57pm   #96
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I started this thing a month a go and the next week a tuner came over. He said my KPA was at 90+ all the time and it was going in and out of closed loop at idle. I also broke a valve spring at idle while he was tuning it. Thanks to 85miketpi and the guys at the HP tuners I was told to look for a vacuum leak. I was inspecting the back of the intake looking for a crack when I found I had nothing connected to the nipple right under the MAP. :bang:
The Spring was another story I spent a few days trying to figure out what kind of spring was in the car. The best we can figure (everyone I talked to and myself) It looks like the PO/builder used only the outside spring of a dual spring set up in order to avoid changing the seats and seals. Pretty stupid if you ask me. I ordered a new set of duals and have half of them in right now.

Pic of the broken spring

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Old 10-13-2012, 3:04pm   #97
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I never addressed the cluster or CCM issue. So the cluster works but my oil is pegged and the temp sender is off (too high) by like 30 degrees.I'm having to rebuild the trans right now and then I will probably go with a 98 sender for the temp and figure out what to do with the oil sender. I'm thinking the wire could be pinched.

The buss feed from the LS1 PCM to the L98 CCM did not work. I will have to go with out ABS and maybe cruise but I don't mind. In hind sight I could have kept the original L98 ECM to feed the CCM easily but I don't regret getting rid of it.
However... this is still a work in progress so who knows.
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Old 03-03-2013, 8:21pm   #98
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Its done

LSX vette on the road 1 - YouTube

LSX Corvette driving - YouTube
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Old 03-10-2013, 8:22pm   #99
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Sounds really good, congrats man!!!!
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Old 09-02-2013, 6:13pm   #100
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I need to replace a shift solenoid but here is a little teaser.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?featur...&v=6hnkvCMRm_U
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