Any hints on using metal studs. - Page 3

Jeff '79 · 10-08-2011, 12:19pm

Quote:

Originally Posted by kingpin

Wall is partially built on the floor.
except for the door opening.

Now I'm trying to figure out how ti raise it by
myself.

I chose to build it out of wood.
I see this ending badly wit no help.

: lol:

Dude....WTF ! I would have shot up there, and helped if you asked....I wondered how the hell two hands were gonna get that done....I can make it there in an hour and a half if you want some help.

kingpin · 10-08-2011, 12:52pm

Posting from phone so it will be short.

Question is:

What does it sound like whena 17 x 12 wall crashes down on a concrete?

Answrr:
you don't want to know.

Battery dieing so I will let you guys know how the next effort goes late tonight.

Thanks jeff. I will figure it out. : cheers:

kingpin · 10-08-2011, 1:42pm

It's up!

oahuyahoo · 10-08-2011, 4:58pm

See post #36 glad you didn't get hurt.

Quote:

Originally Posted by kingpin

Posting from phone so it will be short.

Question is:

What does it sound like whena 17 x 12 wall crashes down on a concrete?

Answrr:
you don't want to know.

Battery dieing so I will let you guys know how the next effort goes late tonight.

Thanks jeff. I will figure it out. : cheers:

LATB · 10-08-2011, 5:40pm

Quote:

Originally Posted by oahuyahoo

See post #36 glad you didn't get hurt.

kingpin · 10-08-2011, 11:50pm

Quote:

Originally Posted by oahuyahoo

See post #36 glad you didn't get hurt.

Quote:

Originally Posted by LarsAtTheBeach

I hear what you guys are saying but sometimes you have no choice in the matter.
Yes, I could of screwed the bottom plate down first in to the concrete and then the top plate. Then proceed to put each stud up on it's own, but there is no extra time for me to of done this.

As of right now it's up, fully framed in for the door and the braces between the studs are in place also. It's power nailed in to the concrete floor as well as a bead of Pl Premium. I also used PL Premium on both side wall and it's tapconed in to the concrete wall. I screwed in to the t-bar ceiling but in to the main tees not the cross tees like they had done previously.
It's damn solid if I say so myself.

I've also finished moving all the electrical outlets and plugs in their proper place with the wires fished behind the drywall not in front.

Now some patch work has to be done to fill up some holes and I need to wait for the drywall for the wall on Tuesday.

Have some faith in me guys, it's all being done by my 2 hands so things have to be approached a bit differently.
I started at 3:30am Saturday morning and just finished now at 12am Sunday morning. Had a 2 hour break in the late afternoon and got back at it.

Jeff '79 · 10-09-2011, 6:41am

Nice job ! Pics !..............of girlfriend

kingpin · 10-09-2011, 5:09pm

I decided to take the day off today and get laid.

I did drop by the shop before I came home to check a few measurements and took a couple pics.
That's what I put up yesterday all by my lonesome except there was no header in it for the doorway.

I'm happy with it as it will do the job.

Monday is a holiday here so the drywall comes Tuesday and that will be the next undertaking.

LATB · 10-09-2011, 5:14pm

all that horizontal 2x4 bracing was unnecessary. but if you love it, it's cool.

height of door opening?

kingpin · 10-09-2011, 5:54pm

Quote:

Originally Posted by LarsAtTheBeach

all that horizontal 2x4 bracing was unnecessary. but if you love it, it's cool.

height of door opening?

Aw man.
You're making fun of my amateur skills and now you are going to make fun of my door height.

80" doors + 1/2" for laminate and under pad thickness + 3/4" jamb + 3/4" for shimming

= 82" rough opening height.

ConstantChange · 10-09-2011, 6:50pm

When do you plan on opening the doors kingpin?

Kerrmudgeon · 10-09-2011, 7:16pm

Hmmm, I thought metal studs were supposed to SPEED things up?

Happy Thanksgiving Mike, are you going to make your planned opening date?

kingpin · 10-09-2011, 7:30pm

Quote:

Originally Posted by ConstantChange

When do you plan on opening the doors kingpin?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kerrmudgeon

Hmmm, I thought metal studs were supposed to SPEED things up?

Happy Thanksgiving Mike, are you going to make your planned opening date?

Yupp. November 1st is the latest for opening.
Metal studs were more expensive than the wood.
I'm happy with the wood though.

Happy Gobbler day to you also Robbie.

oahuyahoo · 10-09-2011, 7:38pm

[QUOTE=Kerrmudgeon;448013]Hmmm, I thought metal studs were supposed to SPEED things up?

QUOTE]
They are real fast, I could have built that wall in 30 minutes.

oahuyahoo · 10-09-2011, 7:41pm

[QUOTE=kingpin;447921]
I'm happy with it as it will do the job.

Monday is a holiday here so the drywall comes Tuesday and that will be the next undertaking.
QUOTE]
You can never have enough electrical in a shop, none in that wall? If you are going to be putting shelving prethink what type you are going to use, some require backing.

kingpin · 10-09-2011, 7:43pm

[quote=oahuyahoo;448035]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kerrmudgeon

Hmmm, I thought metal studs were supposed to SPEED things up?

QUOTE]
They are real fast, I could have built that wall in 30 minutes.

I like wood.

You can lean on a wall and it feels solid.
Not to mention I can put up shelves and hang tools up no problem without having to worry about bracing and shit!

kingpin · 10-09-2011, 7:45pm

[quote=oahuyahoo;448040]

Quote:

Originally Posted by kingpin

I'm happy with it as it will do the job.

Monday is a holiday here so the drywall comes Tuesday and that will be the next undertaking.
QUOTE]
You can never have enough electrical in a shop, none in that wall? If you are going to be putting shelving prethink what type you are going to use, some require backing.

The wall is only going to be finished on the showroom side.
In the work area it will not be finished so it will be open and easy to run wiring.

As it is I have already setup at least 6 outlets in the work side.

LATB · 10-09-2011, 9:52pm

Quote:

Originally Posted by kingpin

Aw man.
You're making fun of my amateur skills and now you are going to make fun of my door height.

80" doors + 1/2" for laminate and under pad thickness + 3/4" jamb + 3/4" for shimming

= 82" rough opening height.

door looked low in the pic. you are cool

and your skills are just fine.

kingpin · 10-09-2011, 9:55pm

Quote:

Originally Posted by LarsAtTheBeach

door looked low in the pic. you are cool

and your skills are just fine.

kingpin · 10-18-2011, 4:39pm

Well it took sometime before I got the drywall. But I got it Sunday night and put it up on Monday.
Yes it's installed in a vertical manner, but hey what can I do.
It has 2 coats of mud right now and the third will go on tomorrow.

I also spent a day with a heat gun and 2 bottles of goo gone removing the old lettering on the sign.
All the holes have been patched and are ready for primer in the showroom.
Alarm, internet, and phone has all been run and installed. Added bonus of free cable.

Replaced about 30 ceiling tiles in the showroom with tiles in the work area to save money instead of buying new ones. What a pain in the ass that was because each tile had to be trimmed 3/8" because the t-bar was installed improperly.
All wiring and switches, including thermostat has been run properly behind the drywall.
Ordered all materials to build my showroom table. Will build this on the weekend hopefully.

So a little more sanding, 1 more coat of mud, prime, paint, trim work, and floor install and I should be good to go.

BTW: I wasn't going to post this pic because I am the worse drywall tap and mudder in the world.
My respect goes out to all the mudders, and all the mudders, mothers as I don't know how they make it look so simple.

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