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Old 02-08-2010, 11:47pm   #1
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Default Rear end

The rear end on my 04 sure is getting loud, anyone else notice this? Suppose I'm going to need another one?
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Old 02-09-2010, 9:16am   #2
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Getting loud? Be a little more specific. Like exact location of the loud noise in the rear and what it sounds like.

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Old 02-09-2010, 12:54pm   #3
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Loud whinny noise, my passenger has to practically yell to have a conversation.
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Old 02-09-2010, 1:02pm   #4
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Does the noise go away some when you take your foot off of the gas, then come back louder as you ease into the throttle?

If so, then it's the ring/pinnion howling, you'll need new gears properly setup to fix that.

If it's chattering when taking slow speed tight turns, then that's the clutch packs and you just need to add a little limited-slip additive to quiet it down.

I've had both issues... the howling arose after a fun evening at the drag strip... the pinion gear had shifted due to improper re-install by GM when it was getting fixed under warranty the first time.

EDIT: Are your gears stock oem? 6-speed or auto? Howling is more common w/ an aftermarket differential if not properly setup... but that'd rear it's head during break-in.
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Old 02-09-2010, 11:32pm   #5
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Stock OEM, automatic transmission. Put the car in neutral and the noise keeps up but slows as the car slows down eliminating the transmission.
I suppose I could get a DTE rear end, I hear they are pretty good. I know they're a ***** to change though.
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Old 02-10-2010, 12:21am   #6
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Is it a gear whine i.e howl, or is it more of a roaring? If its the latter it may well be a bad wheel bearing.
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Old 02-10-2010, 2:05am   #7
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Oops, Sorry I,m leaving now..... Thought this was a BTB post
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Old 02-10-2010, 3:42am   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cobra4B View Post
Is it a gear whine i.e howl, or is it more of a roaring? If its the latter it may well be a bad wheel bearing.
I'm going to see if I can post up a short video of it.
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Old 02-10-2010, 9:21am   #9
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Good idea... I'd hate to see you spend a bunch of cash on a new rear only to find it's a wheel bearing.

Here's a tip... normally the bearings will fail one at a time i.e. on one side one end of the car. You can slalom the car back and forth hard at speed to load/unload the bearings. Go down the road at 45ish and slalom it. When you unload the bearing the roar will go away and you can pinpoint the side etc. Basically lets say it's a RR wheel bearing. When you slalon the car to the right the car will weight the left side and unweight the right side. The roar/hum noise will go away and you'll know 100% that it's a bearing and which one. The bearing noise will increase/decrease with speed much like a noisy rear diff.

Assuming it's the RR for explanations sake as above... Basically driving down the road you'll hear huuuuuuuuuuuuummmmmmmmmmmmmmmm, then when you jerk the car to the left then back to the right it'll go away. As soon as you get the car back to neutral or start the slalom back to the left the hum will come back. So it'll be like huuuuuuuummmmmmmmmmmmmmm.... quiet ....huuuuuuuuummmmmmmmmmmmm.... quiet ... huuuuuuuuuuuummmmmmmmmmmmmmm.

Hope this helps some.

EDIT - If you slalom back and forth and the noise remains constant then it's not a bearing.

Also, rear differential noise will change with load. Meaning it will get louder when you give the car gas... car must be in drive, not neutral. Driving down the road it'll be humming/whining, then when you let off the throttle the noise will dissapate, then when you get back into the gas it'll return. I'm not taling about flooring the car, just simply accelerating vs. coasting.

Wheel bearing noise will not change when going in a straight line based on load... it's constant... until of course you do the slalom trick above.

Last edited by Cobra4B; 02-10-2010 at 9:28am.
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Old 02-10-2010, 1:33pm   #10
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I tried the slalom as you suggested and the noise briefly stopped, it's wheel bearings for me. You're a smart fellow who knows his ****, thanks for the help.
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Old 02-10-2010, 1:42pm   #11
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Originally Posted by oahuyahoo View Post
I tried the slalom as you suggested and the noise briefly stopped, it's wheel bearings for me. You're a smart fellow who knows his ****, thanks for the help.
Awesome... now seeing as a rear diff costs $1700 I figure a bill for $1699 will cover my services
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Old 02-11-2010, 12:03am   #12
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One more bit of advice... Timken is the OEM supplier to GM. You can get Timken brand hub/bearings at Autozone for under $200 a corner... I think fronts are $180ish and rears are $135ish, but I havent purchased any in a couple of years. OEM list is near $400 a corner. On these cars the bearings arent servicable, the hub/bearing comes as one assembly complete with a new wheel speed sensor... this is why they cost so much.

The swap isnt very hard if youre mechanically inclined... hardest part is seperating the lower balljoint to get to the bottom of the 3 bolts that hold the hub/bearing in place. Get a balljoint seperator tool and dont use a traditional picklefork. The picklefork is prone to destroying the balljoint dustboots if youre not very careful. The joint seperator is designed to get them apart w/o damage... the picklefork is technically designed for seperation w/o regard for the joint when your planning on replacin them anyway. Sometimes you can get lucky and put a piece of wood on the endge of the bottom A-arm and whack it with a hammer, but thats only worked on one car for me.

Oh.... my apostrophe key doesnt work... hence the lack of them.
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Old 02-11-2010, 1:09am   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cobra4B View Post
Awesome... now seeing as a rear diff costs $1700 I figure a bill for $1699 will cover my services
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Old 02-11-2010, 1:11am   #14
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I'm inclined but man have you got me lost on this. I see I have a project cut out or me. Goodbye Saturday and what looks like Sunday. Thanks for the heads up.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cobra4B View Post
One more bit of advice... Timken is the OEM supplier to GM. You can get Timken brand hub/bearings at Autozone for under $200 a corner... I think fronts are $180ish and rears are $135ish, but I havent purchased any in a couple of years. OEM list is near $400 a corner. On these cars the bearings arent servicable, the hub/bearing comes as one assembly complete with a new wheel speed sensor... this is why they cost so much.

The swap isnt very hard if youre mechanically inclined... hardest part is seperating the lower balljoint to get to the bottom of the 3 bolts that hold the hub/bearing in place. Get a balljoint seperator tool and dont use a traditional picklefork. The picklefork is prone to destroying the balljoint dustboots if youre not very careful. The joint seperator is designed to get them apart w/o damage... the picklefork is technically designed for seperation w/o regard for the joint when your planning on replacin them anyway. Sometimes you can get lucky and put a piece of wood on the endge of the bottom A-arm and whack it with a hammer, but thats only worked on one car for me.

Oh.... my apostrophe key doesnt work... hence the lack of them.
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Old 02-11-2010, 9:29am   #15
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Here are how-to's with pics for front and rear wheel bearings - Jake Latham's 1997 Z51 Corvette - Misc Tidbits

Jake shows the seperation of the lower balljoint being done w/ a wooden block and hammer... sometimes this works sometimes it doesn't. So if it doesn't be prepared to run to the auto parts store and rent a balljoint seperator... not a picklefork!
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Old 02-12-2010, 2:56am   #16
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I am so not looking forward to this. We have lots of corrosion here and I'm going to struggle and this is being optimistic. Thanks for the additonal info, I'll print that all out and have it nearby to refer to.
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Old 02-13-2010, 11:09pm   #17
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Help! Can't get the nut off the lower ball joint, the entire assembly rotates. How the hell do you do this?
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Old 02-14-2010, 1:18pm   #18
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If I remember correctly theres a spot for an allen wrench in the end of the balljoint stud.
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Old 02-14-2010, 6:48pm   #19
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I can't separate the spline from the assembly. I'm using a 5 ton gear puller and still can't get it apart.



My modified allen to get that damn nut off.
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Old 02-15-2010, 11:17am   #20
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You can't get the 1/2 shaft pulled out and free? Drench it in penetrating oil and let it sit, hit it w/ a rubber mallett a few times too.

Stupid question but you removed the 3 bolts on the backside that hold the hub assembly in place right?
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