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Off Topic Off Topic - General non-Corvette related discussion. |
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08-04-2022, 8:16pm | #101 | ||||||
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@Egnalf & others. We got a proposal to replace our HVAC system. 10 different options from two different manufacturers. All 3.5 ton capacity. Prices from $6,500 to $15k. Can anyone decipher the difference between these and recommend one?
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08-04-2022, 9:37pm | #102 | ||||||
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We had Daikins where I worked. I am not a fan of them. Maybe their residential is better. Amana option two is similar to our carrier quote. We are just waiting on them to get the unit in stock.
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08-04-2022, 9:47pm | #103 | ||||||
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They don't cover rot from salt air so not sure I'd care if warranty was longer than 10 years since you said they last about that long.
As for energy savings I'd try and do a quick number between extra cost up front vs 10 years and if you'd be living there then also. I also look for parts costs/availability of them, nothing like a high end system that can't get parts for quickly. Doesn't matter if under warranty if they can't get the parts. |
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08-05-2022, 6:40am | #104 | |||||||
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08-05-2022, 7:38am | #105 | |||||||
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I am afraid new units won't last as long as the original Armstrong units have. One of them has never even been touched, other than checking freon level (never added any, just checked.) |
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08-05-2022, 8:09am | #106 | ||||||
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Daikin is a very good brand comparable to Mitsubishi. Amana is owned by Daikin, but is made on the same line as Goodman. Two different philosophies toward HVAC, but one parent company.
SEER-- is the efficiency rating. Your old equipment is likely 10 or 12 seer if ten years old. As an example, a well installed system, properly sized and charged, should see a 6.5% energy savings per increase in seer. So going up from 12-18 seer should gain roughly 39% energy savings. It comes down to owner desire to be green, and payback. a 3 year payback on install cost is considered a sound investment. Beyond that, its really owner desire to save and willingess to pay upfront. calculator here: https://www.seerenergysavings.com/ two stage compressor--low speed, high speed. Running low speed during times of moderate weather saves energy and still gives comfort. current system is likely single speed Variable speed compressor--speed varies with load. system runs near constant, with a desire for better comfert. it might only run at low speeds quite often. The desire is reduced energy via the cube rule. Read about it here: https://www.inverterdrivesystems.com/cube-law/ Variable speed air handler--allows fan speed to be ramped up and down with load. Also allows fan to be slowed down for better dehumidification in those climates which need it. Provides a soft start, slow ramping fan motor/controls. Eliminates the banging on/off like some systems have, and provides gentle air movement when starting . The main reason for this is to allow ramping up/down to provide constant comfort and keep the home much closer to setpoint than those systems which are on/off. Higher end occupants are picky like that ,and dont enjoy 1 or 2 degree swings. The Daikin units show coated coils(which are rated for saltwater environments), the Amana does not. Warranty on daikin is stout. 12 years. We use this brand often in commercial applications. for small server rooms, multi room installations, etc. Why I like them, A LOT: 1) Installed well, they rarely break 2) Excellent parts network, although rarely needed. 3) Manuals are posted at their website for anyone to download. (Most manufacturers hide their manuals). 4) We have had a great track record when using their equipment for over ten years. |
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08-05-2022, 8:27am | #107 | |||||||
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08-05-2022, 8:28am | #108 | ||||||
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go here and click on resources, you will see what I mean. http://daikinac.com/
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08-05-2022, 9:43am | #109 | ||||||
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Drop in replacements is a bit misleading. The system has to be evacuated first. They make it seem as though you can add one with the other. No, no, no.
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08-06-2022, 12:03pm | #110 | ||||||
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Drop in refers to not having to change the compressor, oil, expansion device or other components. If you take issue with that call your politicians and file a complaint against the over reach of the EPA.
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08-06-2022, 12:53pm | #111 | |||||||
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What needs to be developed is an actual drop-in. We need to get back to the 89 cents a can days of R12 for cars and a dollar a pound for houses. |
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08-17-2022, 4:14pm | #112 | ||||||
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Update:
I went outside, pulled the sides off and fan off the unit and cleaned the coils. I cleaned the inside coil best I could (not too accessible) I added leak stop and 1.5lbs of R22 System is back to how it was. Not great, but ok. BOTH upstairs and down are doing the same thing with temps. I called "the guy" and he says in his 20 years, nothing I am saying about my system makes sense. For BOTH units: Set temp at 79 - it goes to 79 Set temp at 78 - it goes to 78 Set temp to 77 - it goes to 77 Set temp to 76 - it goes to 76 Set temp to 75 - it goes to 75 Set temp to 74 - it goes to 74 Set temp to 73 - it goes to 75 !!! EVERY TIME I set the temp to 73, the temperature goes UP !! The only time I can get to 73 is around 9:00PM or later. Upstairs uses a Nest thermostat Downstairs uses a Honeywell |
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08-17-2022, 4:16pm | #113 | |||||||
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08-17-2022, 4:18pm | #114 | ||||||
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08-17-2022, 7:29pm | #115 | ||||||
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This is what ours is doing. Thermo set on 72 and it will be 77-79 in the house. It holds 72-74 until 5 or 6 pm. Crazy! The guy said it’s some value that’s expensive to replace in addition to losing all the freon. And it’s 19 years old. So we are still waiting on the new one. We did buy a window unit to help out. Temp does not go back down until 3 or 4am.
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08-17-2022, 8:53pm | #116 | |||||||
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if you posted superheat and subcooling it would be easier to help you. |
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08-17-2022, 9:00pm | #117 | ||||||
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Yes, the guy said expansion value and the coil was heating up. Thanks!
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08-17-2022, 10:15pm | #118 | |||||||
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08-18-2022, 7:12am | #119 | ||||||
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Expansion valves go bad, but not frequently. Often the real problem is crud inside the system collecting at the inlet screen of the valve. A new valve is relatively inexpensive (under 100 bucks), you are paying for pumping down the refrigerant and labor to do the work of remove/replace, dehydrate and recharge the system. If there are valves at the outdoor unit to pump it down into itself its easier.
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08-18-2022, 7:16am | #120 | ||||||
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Without knowing specs and conditions, you can shoot for targets if working alone. Try to get to 8-10 degrees subcooling at the exit of the outdoor unit, and 15-25 superheat at the inlet. If subcooling is below 3 or 4 degrees, its likely boiling off (flashing) in the liquid line before it gets to the indoor coil. Also, if there is a filter drier, check temperature/pressure across it, if possible. Pressure differential should be low, about 2 psi difference or less. Temperature should remain nearly constant from inlet to outlet. if neither of these is true, it could be getting clogged with crud.
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