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Old 01-20-2018, 9:00pm   #1
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Cool metal stitching for repair ( pics and explanation )

My friend Bill Hazzard does metal stitching repairs as it's needed at times to save various parts of old engines.

The gear is off this 1890's Otto engine that my friend Roger purchased in the early 1970s. There aren't too many of these 17 hp Otto's left plus it's best to keep the engine as original as possible.


Here is the gear on the crankshaft. It turns the larger idler gear which is attached to the angle gear which turns the sideshaft. Think of the sideshaft as the cam as it controls opening of the valves and the timing for ignition.


One more view of the gears from the back. You can see the damaged tooth. Also notice the "feet off" cast into the base. As the engine turns in a clockwise rotation as viewed in the above picture, if you would put your foot there when starting or running and "bad things would happen quickly"


Someone had done a "repair to the damaged tooth by drilling and tapping two bolts into the gear tooth area and filing them to approximate shape. The bolts from rocking back and forth created a fracture in the hub. Since the crack only went a short distance into the casting, a single row of stitching was used.

Here is the gear with the drilling fixture where the repair goes. The gear is 5.812 in diameter with a bore size of about 3-1/2" inches.


The gear after being drilled 1/2" deep for the "Lock-N-Stitch locks". It's sitting on Bill's 130 year old Peter Wright anvil that he used to back up the gear when he drove the locks in.


After being flat filed to match the original surface height.


Once Roger has the gear back, he will bring it to my work and I'll have the inspector measure one of the good gear teeth on the CMM. He's lay it out of the computer and we'll use that to cut a single tooth on the waterjet.

The bottom of the tooth and the broken portion of the gear will bot have dovetails cut into them. The original gear was cast and has the flat "washer" on the back so it would be extremely difficult to cut a new tooth in a conventional way.

Jeff
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Old 01-20-2018, 9:55pm   #2
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Amazing work as always!
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Old 01-20-2018, 9:56pm   #3
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Amazing work as always!
All credit goes to Bill Hazzard. He did a great job on the repair.
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Old 01-21-2018, 5:08am   #4
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I’ve not heard of metal stiching before but I’m guessing the idea behind the shape is that it helps lock the joint together
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Old 01-21-2018, 5:28am   #5
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Was that filled in with welding rod or something of the like, or was a plug just beat into it?
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Old 01-21-2018, 7:48am   #6
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Pretty cool; I've never seen that before.

How does the missing tooth get repaired?
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Old 01-21-2018, 7:15pm   #7
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I’ve not heard of metal stiching before but I’m guessing the idea behind the shape is that it helps lock the joint together
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Was that filled in with welding rod or something of the like, or was a plug just beat into it?


The plug(s) and driven into the drilled pocket and expand to fill every crevice.

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Pretty cool; I've never seen that before.

How does the missing tooth get repaired?
Once Roger gets the gear back, I'll get it from him and take it into work. My friend Dave is the inspector and he'll get readings off a good tooth on the CMM ( coordinate measuring machine ) and then plot those readings on the computer.

Then it will be converted into a .dxf file and a tooth will be cut on the waterjet.

The bottom of the tooth will have a dovetail cut into it and then the same dovetail will be machined into the gear for the new tooth to fit in. It will be a light press fit plus it ill be captured between the crankshaft and the flywheel once it's assembled.

After much discussion with Roger, Bill , Wayne Grenning and myself, it was decided that would be the best repair to save the original gear.
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Old 01-21-2018, 9:11pm   #8
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Doesn't that stitch leave the ends of the existing crack and thus not alleviate those high stress points? Seems like it would allow crack propagation to continue.
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Old 01-21-2018, 9:15pm   #9
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Doesn't that stitch leave the ends of the existing crack and thus not alleviate those high stress points? Seems like it would allow crack propagation to continue.
On this gear, the crack was very shallow and was caused by the "mickey mouse" repair with the two screws.

The lock stitch repair will hold the gear together and not allow any forces to continue to expand the defect.
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Old 01-21-2018, 9:48pm   #10
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On this gear, the crack was very shallow and was caused by the "mickey mouse" repair with the two screws.

The lock stitch repair will hold the gear together and not allow any forces to continue to expand the defect.
Interesting. What are those things called? And what the heck are they made of?
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Old 01-21-2018, 9:56pm   #11
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Interesting. What are those things called? And what the heck are they made of?
Here's the website for Lock and Stitch Metal Stitching & Thread Repair Inserts. - Turlock , CA - LOCK-N-STITCH, Inc

You can use either "locks" or "pins" depending on the type of repair needed.
Crack Repair Tools & Supplies On Lock-N-Stitch

A bigger repair to a part would be done by having the company come to your location or sending the part to them.
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Old 01-22-2018, 10:16am   #12
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Will the dovetailed tooth have a set screw? Or will the dovetail be snug enough to keep it from moving out?
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Old 01-22-2018, 11:00am   #13
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in woodworking, a similar repair or patch would be called a Dutchman. various shapes are possible, double ended dovetails are common to keep a board crack from getting bigger.

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Old 01-22-2018, 7:39pm   #14
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Will the dovetailed tooth have a set screw? Or will the dovetail be snug enough to keep it from moving out?
No set screw will be needed or used. Just a precision fit. Roger will be doing the final machining on the tooth and gear. He's a retired Tool & Die maker and that type of precision work is right down his alley.

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in woodworking, a similar repair or patch would be called a Dutchman. various shapes are possible, double ended dovetails are common to keep a board crack from getting bigger.

Thanks for the woodworking equivalent
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Old 03-19-2018, 8:25pm   #15
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The repair on the gear is complete

My friend Dave measured an original tooth on the CMM. He plotted it on the computer and Gary converted it to a .dxf file so a replacement tooth could be cut on the water jet.

Bill Hazzard got the teeth and hand fitted one of them to the mating gear. A dovetail was cut in the gear and then the replacement tooth was profiled using the same dovetail cutter for a press fit.
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Old 03-19-2018, 8:29pm   #16
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The tooth was then loctited and peened in place. A little time on the lathe and a great job on saving the original gear from the 1893 17 HP Otto engine
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Old 03-20-2018, 4:02am   #17
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Excellent work!
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Old 03-20-2018, 7:32am   #18
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Nice job with what you have to work with!

Please do yourself a favor and upgrade that rocker post tool holder!
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Old 03-20-2018, 7:44am   #19
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Beautiful work!

Just a thought; but shouldn't the tooth and stitch have a date stamp?
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Old 03-20-2018, 7:13pm   #20
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Nice job with what you have to work with!

Please do yourself a favor and upgrade that rocker post tool holder!
I have an Aloris BXA wedge QCTP on my Monarch CK 12.

This is Bill's lathe, a L Robbins kathe. It's run by an overhead belt and the hit & miss engine you hear in the background


Here's his shop from 11 years ago
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