My first time building a structure

[The_Dude]

Originally Posted by TheHammer

Based on most responses, I think you'd be better off to cut the frame down and have a family bonfire, then jackhammer the slab out, and start over.

He should also be lashing out at all of those critiquing the building.

[Murray]

Originally Posted by TheHammer

Based on most responses, I think you'd be better off to cut the frame down and have a family bonfire, then jackhammer the slab out, and start over.

Save the door….and compressor 👍

[ptindall]

Fixed the door frame. Added the sill sealer. I bought the 5.5" wide stuff. Thinking of folding it up and pinching it behind the siding. Good idea or not? Also built the first truss.

[LATB]

Looks good.

Do Not fold up the sill sealer, it will trap moisture.

Let it stay and the sheathing and siding will have some moisture protection.
If you do the Z flashing, leave it or trim it.

Whatever you do don't allow the sheathing and siding rest on the sill sealer, it will wick up moisture.

[LATB]

Another thing you could do...

Wrap the building with horizontal 2x4's every 24" (purlins) and screw the vertical steel panels on that like your metal building. The 2x4's would get the siding beyond the slab (where moisture can drain off) and there would be no need for sheathing. And the 2x4 purlins would be much less expensive than plywood sheathing.

[Tikiman]

The horizontal purlins are a good idea. That is how I build my pole barns.

[ptindall]

Originally Posted by LATB

Another thing you could do...

Wrap the building with horizontal 2x4's every 24" (purlins) and screw the vertical steel panels on that like your metal building. The 2x4's would get the siding beyond the slab (where moisture can drain off) and there would be no need for sheathing. And the 2x4 purlins would be much less expensive than plywood sheathing.

Interesting idea but I've already bought the materials so I'm going to use them. Spent the day making and installing the trusses.

[Stevedore]

I'd suggest that the door header beams (2x4s?) should be on edge rather than flat.

[TheHammer]

[Tikiman]

Originally Posted by Stevedore

I'd suggest that the door header beams (2x4s?) should be on edge rather than flat.

I noticed that as well, but thought I just wouldn't say anything. I've been known to use a 2 x 8 there and just have really short cripples.

[LATB]

Originally Posted by Stevedore

I'd suggest that the door header beams (2x4s?) should be on edge rather than flat.

That would be good practice but the way it’s built and the truss span and bearing, there really is no load on the door header.

[Tikiman]

Originally Posted by LATB

That would be good practice but the way it’s built and the truss span and bearing, there really is no load on the door header.

Well, you used to frame for a living. I only ever did it out of necessity. So your word is the last one on that.

[TheHammer]

Originally Posted by LATB

That would be good practice but the way it’s built and the truss span and bearing, there really is no load on the door header.

Not as long as he shovels that sunshine off the roof occasionally.

[LATB]

Originally Posted by Tikiman

I noticed that as well, but thought I just wouldn't say anything. I've been known to use a 2 x 8 there and just have really short cripples.

Most engineering calls for 2x12 headers over openings (double or triple). Anything over a 12’ span calls for LVL.

[ptindall]

Originally Posted by TheHammer

No access to the location I'm building. I was barely able to wedge my utility trailer along the side of my garage, but unable to make the 90 degree turn to the back of the bulding where the shed is. The same will be true of my duallie truck that has the plywood and siding in the bed. I may even have to trim a tree just to get it along side of the garage. I'd have to wreck a lot of plants and terrian to get anything preassembled back there.

[TheHammer]

Originally Posted by ptindall

No access to the location I'm building. I was barely able to wedge my utility trailer along the side of my garage, but unable to make the 90 degree turn to the back of the bulding where the shed is. The same will be true of my duallie truck that has the plywood and siding in the bed. I may even have to trim a tree just to get it along side of the garage. I'd have to wreck a lot of plants and terrian to get anything preassembled back there.

Poor garage location planning.

[LATB]

Originally Posted by ptindall

Interesting idea but I've already bought the materials so I'm going to use them. Spent the day making and installing the trusses.

Than I’d flash at the bottom. Even a simple L flashing would be beneficial.
Pretty sure both L and Z is available at Lowe’s/Home Depot.

The trusses look great.

[LATB]

Originally Posted by TheHammer

Poor garage location planning.

Funny but I’m building on 33 acres, built a barn earlier this year and working on the foundation for the house now. And even with all the acreage you have to build with the lay of the land. Many times I question…maybe I should have moved to barn here or there. Maybe the house could have been shifted a bit…
This after hundreds of hours of planning and site layout.

Human nature if you are a builder/developer who gives a damn.

[ptindall]

Originally Posted by LATB

Than I’d flash at the bottom. Even a simple L flashing would be beneficial.
Pretty sure both L and Z is available at Lowe’s/Home Depot.

The trusses look great.

Thanks. I planned to pick up the flashing while I was at Lowe's yesterday, but they didn't have any Z flashing with an offset over 1/2". My walls are recessed on the pad up to 1.5". They did have some L with an angled tip they called drip flashing or something like that, but I would have to use them backwards of their intent for this purpose. I was going to stop by Home Depot after work sometime this week and see what they have. If there is no Z flashing with enough offset, I'll use the L.

[dvarapala]

Originally Posted by TheHammer

Poor garage location planning.

Yaddie probably designed it for him.