Is it safe to drive with the AWD light on?

[Wathen1955]

My wife's 2013 Honda CRV, the AWD light comes on while driving, and it has been intermittent. We drove it on Tuesday about 20 miles and it never came on. When it came on for me, I stopped to get some gas, and on the way back home it never came on again. My wife just drove it less than 10 miles this evening and it came on again. Car has ~110k on the clock.

My wife needs to drive 100 miles tomorrow to pick up my daughter. Is it okay to drive it knowing that only the front wheels will be working?

[Big bob]

I found this but if it was me I would go get new fluid for the diff at a store that will loan you a code reader if you have never changed the fluid they are WAY over due.


The most common reason is what Honda describes as: AWD Indicator Comes On and Sets DTC C1858-73 – 2012-2013 Honda CR-V. The electric differential pressure solenoid (EDPS) in the rear differential has excessive oil pressure, causing the AWD indicator to come on and DTC C-1858-73 (differential fluid pressure deviation high) to set. What happens is the plunger on the solenoid hangs up sometimes and the computer disengages the AWD and puts the CRV into a FWD mode and puts on the AWD light. Honda put out a service bulletin, A15-016, that gives the details. Hope this helps.

[Wathen1955]

Thanks for the info, but is it okay to still drive the car until I can take it in next week?

[GTOguy]

Originally Posted by Wathen1955

Thanks for the info, but is it okay to still drive the car until I can take it in next week?

I would not recommend it. (retired auto tech here)

[Steve_R]

Originally Posted by Wathen1955

Thanks for the info, but is it okay to still drive the car until I can take it in next week?

Probably. Lots of cars are front wheel drive so that’s not a problem. Can you turn AWD off? Without knowing why the light is coming on intermittently there’s no certain answer. If you can turn the AWD off I would.

[Big bob]

It is 1 1/2 quart of fluid and might need a pump top to get it in. Pull two plugs and drain then fill. If it is running dry it could leave your wife stranded it should have been changed 5 times already.

[Wathen1955]

Funny how the maintenance requirements in the manual never discuss changing that fluid.

[GTOguy]

My take: it probably won't hurt anything but it might. You need to make the decision if it's worth a potential differential/transfer case plus a road tow bill or wreck recovery (if it locks up and causes loss of control)
I personally would not do it and rent a car if needed. I can't count the number of engines and transmissions I replaced (or had the car simply junked) because the owner (95% of the time women) just HAD to get that last 10 miles home with the dash lights on. (Ironically, it was very common on Hondas in the 80's and 90's due to electric fan failure leading to blown head gaskets leading to lunched engines)
If you keep asking the question 'will I be ok', perhaps you can convince yourself you will be. And you may be. It's your call.

[Steve_R]

Any update?

[Frankie the Fink]

I guess its just silly to see what the Owner's Manual says or do your own ODBC scan ?
Instead take a straw poll on a car forum and then proceed on that basis, a poll among people with no dog in the fight - burn up some AWD component and you won't like the repair bill.

I have a 2022 Ridgeline with AWD and I wouldn't drive it with that light on.

[Wathen1955]

Originally Posted by Steve_R

Any update?

The car is parked until I can take it in on Tuesday the 2nd to the local Honda dealership for a diagnostics analysis.

The light is not always on. Last Tuesday, we drove it for several miles and it never came on. My wife drove it 6 miles to a Tupperware party the next day, and it did not come on until she left. Maybe it was due to the rain we got that evening?

I HATE intermittent problems like this. If it came on as soon as I started the car, then getting the code would be great.

[GTOguy]

It will have a stored code, light on or not. A scanner will show one or many faults. It's how these cars work. You made the smart choice here.

[Swany00]

A scanner would help, hopefully the dealer doesn't screw you over and it's just a loose wire or some shit like that

[CurtP]

Originally Posted by Wathen1955

Thanks for the info, but is it okay to still drive the car until I can take it in next week?

Absolutely.

It isn't my car.

[snide]

Originally Posted by Wathen1955

The car is parked until I can take it in on Tuesday the 2nd to the local Honda dealership for a diagnostics analysis.

The light is not always on. Last Tuesday, we drove it for several miles and it never came on. My wife drove it 6 miles to a Tupperware party the next day, and it did not come on until she left. Maybe it was due to the rain we got that evening?

I HATE intermittent problems like this. If it came on as soon as I started the car, then getting the code would be great.

for pics of new Honda Tuesday evening...

[Louie Detroit]

Originally Posted by Big bob

I found this but if it was me I would go get new fluid for the diff at a store that will loan you a code reader if you have never changed the fluid they are WAY over due.


The most common reason is what Honda describes as: AWD Indicator Comes On and Sets DTC C1858-73 – 2012-2013 Honda CR-V. The electric differential pressure solenoid (EDPS) in the rear differential has excessive oil pressure, causing the AWD indicator to come on and DTC C-1858-73 (differential fluid pressure deviation high) to set. What happens is the plunger on the solenoid hangs up sometimes and the computer disengages the AWD and puts the CRV into a FWD mode and puts on the AWD light. Honda put out a service bulletin, A15-016, that gives the details. Hope this helps.

Here is the source of BB's post I believe. Just to add from info posted in it, watch how much they try to charge for the repair.

https://www.crvownersclub.com/thread...ndomly.201770/

[Big bob]

Originally Posted by Louie Detroit

Here is the source of BB's post I believe. Just to add from info posted in it, watch how much they try to charge for the repair.

https://www.crvownersclub.com/thread...ndomly.201770/

Oh ya they will screw you till your nose bleeds. That is why I told him to change the fluid and read the codes for himself. They get sticky with old fluid but the dealership won't be happy with that. I bet they will tell him what a deal they can make him on a new one.

[theandies]

There is usually a book in the glove box marked Owners manual. If you search the index you'll probably find your answer. Check page 71

[Wathen1955]

I decided to take it in first to the Goodyear tire and repair shop. I've been 100% satisfied with their service and honesty. Example:

I have a 2016 Subaru Outback that I picked up in December 2019 with only 23k on the clock. I had to take it back to the dealer for them to replace the catalytic converter due to a factory recall. While I was there waiting, the service guy said my breaks were worn and should be replaced.

Yeah right...with only 25k on the clock! When I took it to Goodyear, the guy even showed me that I have plenty of meat left on the pads, and I should be able to go up to 60k before needing replacement.

So yeah, I always have doubts about going to a dealer. I'm going to try Goodyear first. If they say they can't fix it, then I'll take it to Honda, that way I'll avoid the "hey we have some nice used and new cars for sale."

[GTOguy]

Originally Posted by Wathen1955

I decided to take it in first to the Goodyear tire and repair shop. I've been 100% satisfied with their service and honesty. Example:

I have a 2016 Subaru Outback that I picked up in December 2019 with only 23k on the clock. I had to take it back to the dealer for them to replace the catalytic converter due to a factory recall. While I was there waiting, the service guy said my breaks were worn and should be replaced.

Yeah right...with only 25k on the clock! When I took it to Goodyear, the guy even showed me that I have plenty of meat left on the pads, and I should be able to go up to 60k before needing replacement.

So yeah, I always have doubts about going to a dealer. I'm going to try Goodyear first. If they say they can't fix it, then I'll take it to Honda, that way I'll avoid the "hey we have some nice used and new cars for sale."

I worked for Goodyear for 14 years long ago as a technician. For three different company owned stores...not private. We got state of the art training several times a year ( I was flown to Arizona and Ohio, etc.) and they were big on integrity. It was refreshing working for them after working for a dishonest tune-up chain that relied on thievery. If I hadn't 'aged out' of being a line tech, I would have probably stayed on. They were a great outfit, and glad to hear you're getting the same treatment. Building repeat customer business was a big deal for them, and you can't do that if you screw the customer over. We actually had generations of the same family come to our shop. Very cool and appreciative customers.