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Old 07-06-2016, 2:12pm   #1
lspencer534
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Default Need your opinion on adhesive...

Some of you may know that I have a 1987 El Camino SS. One of the models that year (and actualy 1983-1987) was a Chattanooga Choo-Choo Edition like this:



Mine isn't a Choo-Choo, but I've always liked certain aspects of the car like the non-functional side exhaust and the non-functional hood scoop:



I'm adding a functional side exhaust:


and a hood scoop...but not the atrocious fiberglas front end. To add the hood scoop, the manufacturer says to use 3M double-sided tape and self-tapping screws. I will not drill holes in the hood for screws.

The rear of the hood scoop has a 2" wide flat section that mates perfectly with the hood, so that's where I'll use the double-sided tape. The sides and front of the scoop are where I plan on using a glue.

Should I use clear caulk, liquid nails, Lexel, or what?
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Old 07-06-2016, 2:18pm   #2
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I would use this, without any other adhesive.

https://www.amazon.com/3M-03609-Scotch-Mount-Molding-Tape/dp/B000BO913C
I have a roll of it and it will stick it down without any lasting damage to the paint.
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Old 07-06-2016, 2:38pm   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RonC5 View Post
I would use this, without any other adhesive.

Amazon.com: 3M 03609 Scotch-Mount 1/2" x 5' Molding Tape: Automotive

I have a roll of it and it will stick it down without any lasting damage to the paint.
I plan on using that on the 2" wide flat section at the rear of the scoop, but the sides and front of the scoop aren't flat and offer little area to stick to. That's why I was considering a caulk/adhesive. Does this change your opinion?
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Old 07-06-2016, 2:40pm   #4
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maybe it's not meant to be.....
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Old 07-06-2016, 2:49pm   #5
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maybe it's not meant to be.....
NOT how I think....
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Old 07-06-2016, 2:54pm   #6
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I didn't want to drill holes in my new rear quarters on my 56, so I used the 3M trim tape to attach the stainless spears (pretty heavy) that run down the side of the car. I needed it THAT DAY for a wedding. It was supposed to be temporary........it's still holding them on 20 years later!

And I'm always checking how well they are "stuck" when I use the car......stuff is like shit to the blanket!
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Old 07-06-2016, 3:00pm   #7
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At speed, I dont see caulking holding. Spend some bucks.


https://www.amazon.com/1978-87-Chevelle-Malibu-Cowl-Hood/dp/B01EKJAAL0/ref=sr_1_28?ie=UTF8&qid=1467835044&sr=8-28&keywords=cowl+hood+chevelle
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Old 07-06-2016, 3:03pm   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lspencer534 View Post
NOT how I think....
and yet, you are still here?!

man's got to know his limitations....
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Old 07-06-2016, 3:12pm   #9
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I would use E6000.
I use it to hold components (fuel tanks, switches, servos...) in my model jets.
It is similar to silicone but holds much better.
If I need to remove or re position something I can often remove a thick layer of it by simply peeling it similar to tape, thin layers can sometimes be removed by rubbing with my thumb and rolling it off. Very thin layers of it can only be removed with chemicals (kerosene dissolves it to a goo that can be wiped off).
Just make sure you mask around the scoop before mounting it.

I think it is available in clear, white, and black.
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Old 07-06-2016, 3:36pm   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lspencer534 View Post
NOT how I think....
this negates your previous statement about not drilling holes...
i would do whatever it takes to make it right.

i have a 5" cowl scoop on my vette hood, even with glasswork
and rivets it pulled up at 100mph+...i now have #12 sheetmetal
scews with washers both sides and backup 'speednuts' on the
inside as well as epoxy between the scoop lip and the hood.
some say it looks like crepe, but i know that now it aint budging.

if they recommend screws, put in screws.
when the half-assed solution flies off at 60mph and hits a
motorcyclist in the throat, you will be wishing you had drilled a few holes.

if it bothers you that much to deface the hood, find another hood
and drill that, or dont run it at all. just some advice from someone whos
been there/done that and wish i hadnt, take it or leave it up to you...
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Old 07-06-2016, 3:40pm   #11
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strikes me that lawyers like GIVING advice, but loathe RECEIVING advice....
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Old 07-06-2016, 3:51pm   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevin_73 View Post
I would use E6000.
I use it to hold components (fuel tanks, switches, servos...) in my model jets.
It is similar to silicone but holds much better.
If I need to remove or re position something I can often remove a thick layer of it by simply peeling it similar to tape, thin layers can sometimes be removed by rubbing with my thumb and rolling it off. Very thin layers of it can only be removed with chemicals (kerosene dissolves it to a goo that can be wiped off).
Just make sure you mask around the scoop before mounting it.

I think it is available in clear, white, and black.
Thanks!
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Old 07-06-2016, 5:11pm   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lspencer534 View Post
I plan on using that on the 2" wide flat section at the rear of the scoop, but the sides and front of the scoop aren't flat and offer little area to stick to. That's why I was considering a caulk/adhesive. Does this change your opinion?
No. I have used this on emblems, etc. I stick it to the item, then trim as necessary with a razor blade. Works like a charm.
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Old 07-06-2016, 5:33pm   #14
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I suppose it depends on the area of surface you need/vs the size of the possible glue area, BUT, use a ~5 buck tooth paste tube size of RTV black, you will pull the damn paint off before that quits....
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Old 07-06-2016, 6:01pm   #15
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Use the 3M tape, it holds very well and comes in narrow widths (1/4" or less IIRC) that can be used on the sides and front. Put it on and let it sit outside in the hot sun and avoid washing it for a couple of weeks.
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Old 07-06-2016, 6:15pm   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lspencer534 View Post


El Camino driver with a mullet? Check.
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Old 07-06-2016, 6:18pm   #17
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In answer to your question, maybe check to see what GM used to affix the c-6 roofs. That stuff should work pretty well.

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Old 07-07-2016, 11:16am   #18
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Manufacturer's instructions are usually the best way to go.
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Old 07-07-2016, 12:15pm   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thefatguy View Post
if it bothers you that much to deface the hood, find another hood and drill that, or dont run it at all.
That's what I was going to say...

You have to paint the scoop anyway, right? A junkyard hood can't cost more than a few bucks.

Do it right or your scoop will end up becoming a missile aimed inevitably at the expensive car behind you. In which case you may need to find a lawyer.
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