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Old 07-23-2012, 7:44pm   #1
five-oh
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Default Actual C4 question...

Now I fully expect that this thread will head south faster than Sweetsie through a Chinese kitchen, but I figured I'd ask for a helpful hint....
I still haven't got off my butt and bought a FSM for the '86. Haven't done much at all to it, truthfully, been neck deep to a giraffe in other projects....

After my little bragging jab at the Rat the other day over air conditioning, TMT apparently poxed me before getting ran over by a subiee. I switched off the car after a pleasant cool drive, but the a/c blower motor didn't stop. I finally had to unplug it from the blower module to keep it from draining the battery.
Now, it has a mind of its on. Either that or TMT is rolling over on his pox remote repeatedly. Some times, it won't blow at all. Sometimes it'll work perfect, and other times it won't quit.
I took out the electronic control unit, disassembled it, cleaned it with compressed air, and reassembled. Fixed- for about two trips to town.

Question is- is there an easy way to test the blower control module? I really am not fond of throwing parts at it.....

And Rat- I WILL get even for you and Taurus jacking with my a/c. It was 107 here yesterday, and the a/c finally began working- a block from my house. Tell me that wasn't you.....
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Old 07-23-2012, 8:33pm   #2
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Sorry, I don't know enough about those things to have caused your gremlin, it's a good idea for future reference. I'm more of a "slap Miata emblems on the C4 before a bomber run when you're not looking" kind of demigod.........

I will say one thing, that is a difficult part to test all the connections on. Having said that, you need to take that with a grain of salt because I'm also a throw parts at it kind of demigod as well.
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Old 07-23-2012, 9:15pm   #3
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Damn. No politics or bikini chicks.
I did find a few links that might help. Or not...
1986 corvette: blower motor..fuse box, OK checked 5 amp fuse..engages - JustAnswer
1986 Corvette.... Heater/AC blower motor would only run at - JustAnswer
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Old 07-23-2012, 9:40pm   #4
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Anyone knows the deal with the Colorado douchebag?

I've working on Betty Boop's fuel tank. It's a great thing I don't smoke.. Had to siphon 7 gallons, installed a new strainer and calibrated the floating device. Now at 2 gallons it indicates two lines/reserve. Before at 4 gallons in the tank would mark totally empty.
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Old 07-23-2012, 9:49pm   #5
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Well I dunno...I'll fix a lot of things, but if I have to tear out the dash to fix a heater core, I'm throwing in the towel and just bypassing that sucka. bad enough most of the other ancillary crap craps out from GM-itis...you'd think you could catch a break and not break down in any given year. Myself...contemplating going 3.73 due to the leaky pinion seal and axle shaft side play on my abused differential. I thought I was going to catch up and make everything perfect, but it is too much to keep up with.

My mom is selling a Subaru...everything works except the cargo shade- no headaches at all, but no power either.
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Old 07-24-2012, 6:15am   #6
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Watch those subi's mike. Seen a few in the past couple months come into the shop with major issues. Prone to alllllll sorts of leaks due to the nature of the aposed motor. Well and at least here up in the north east. Rust is a large problem with them. Usually due to the fact that many are driven year round through the snow and salt, and never washed.

What year is your moms?
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Old 07-25-2012, 9:14am   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by five-oh View Post
After my little bragging jab at the Rat the other day over air conditioning, TMT apparently poxed me before getting ran over by a subiee.
You know....that would only make sense to someone who hangs out here.

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Question is- is there an easy way to test the blower control module? I really am not fond of throwing parts at it.....
I'll diagnose a problem into the ground 17 ways from Sunday before replacing a part....but I know of no way to test the module. Something is obviously providing a power source to the blower irrespective of key setting.

Test everything else, and use process of elimination. Everything else passes muster, there's your culprit.

Had the same thing on my old 84 in a sense with the ECM. Intermittent dead injector, and when you only have two injectors...... I spent an entire weekend tracing circuits and eliminating everything I could, until all I was left with was the ECM. A CF member sent me a free used ECM.....swapped out the PROM, plugged it in, all was good. Dead injector driver....intermittently.

I hate diagnosing electronic crap.
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Old 07-25-2012, 9:28am   #8
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You know....that would only make sense to someone who hangs out here.



I'll diagnose a problem into the ground 17 ways from Sunday before replacing a part....
Isn't that called Yankee Thriftiness?
Cat scatters and jumps through nearest window to save his life from hot and angry dawg
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Old 07-25-2012, 2:47pm   #9
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Maybe check NAPA website for the Blower control module part # then cross reference it to other makes and models. If I remember correctly mine came from an 80's Buick roadmaster...$5 at the wrecking yard...
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Old 09-10-2012, 7:32pm   #10
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Well....Thanks to ebay, a new/used blower control module is on the way. Don't think it'll do me any good right now though- still ain't got the blasted thing running from the jealousy shut-down at the Dodge place..

Anybody got a clue on how many volts I should be seeing at the fuel pump hookup? I've only got a cheap Chilton/haynes, which, as a repair manuel goes, does about as good a job as Odumbo does as president....it gets me in deeper and deeper and deeper, with no clue of the way out...

Long story short,- Car running great. Switched it off after a fifty mile run, hasn't ran since. Getting fire, no fuel. Will start with starting fluid and die instantly.
I replaced fuel pump because I had it with me and it was a quick job. Fully expected it was out, since the guy I bought the 'vette off of had said it was weak..... Didn't help. Diagnoised no power to the pump. Replaced Relay(s). Now showing around 10 volts....is this about right?
And unrelated, I've apparently got something off in the pump installation. I hear it kick on, but it is not pumping a bit....gonna try to yank the pump back out this weekend, when I have time.....
Any help or jeers? I'm at the point of missing the Miata...
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Old 09-10-2012, 9:27pm   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by five-oh View Post
Well....Thanks to ebay, a new/used blower control module is on the way. Don't think it'll do me any good right now though- still ain't got the blasted thing running from the jealousy shut-down at the Dodge place..

Anybody got a clue on how many volts I should be seeing at the fuel pump hookup? I've only got a cheap Chilton/haynes, which, as a repair manuel goes, does about as good a job as Odumbo does as president....it gets me in deeper and deeper and deeper, with no clue of the way out...

Long story short,- Car running great. Switched it off after a fifty mile run, hasn't ran since. Getting fire, no fuel. Will start with starting fluid and die instantly.
I replaced fuel pump because I had it with me and it was a quick job. Fully expected it was out, since the guy I bought the 'vette off of had said it was weak..... Didn't help. Diagnoised no power to the pump. Replaced Relay(s). Now showing around 10 volts....is this about right?
And unrelated, I've apparently got something off in the pump installation. I hear it kick on, but it is not pumping a bit....gonna try to yank the pump back out this weekend, when I have time.....
Any help or jeers? I'm at the point of missing the Miata...
Did you check the pulsator hose for splits or just replace it with the pump?
How about the possibility of reversed wires on pump?
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Old 09-10-2012, 10:09pm   #12
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Run 12V directly to terminal G on the ALDL connector. Test for voltage at the pump harness. Pump should run continuously with terminal G energized, and you should hear it.

You should have full battery voltage at the connector. If you do, pull the pump out and check pulsator as Bunky suggested. Just go ahead and replace it with a piece of fuel injection hose. If it hasn't split yet, it will. Ensure that filter sock is connected and not clogged. If it has fallen off, check fuel pump inlet for clogs.

Just say no to Miatas....I've heard that certain folks that drive them are.....shall we say "light in the loafers"
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Old 09-11-2012, 2:12am   #13
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Quote:
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Just say no to Miatas....I've heard that certain folks that drive them are.....shall we say "light in the loafers"
I just can't imagine trying to change a fuel pump when your hands are permanently folded down at the wrists..tsk-tsk...
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Old 09-22-2012, 7:54pm   #14
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Well. I am happy. It appears I won't need a Miata after all. I managed to isolate my no fuel issue to a grounding problem on the fuel pump. After cleaning and replacing everything, including the fuel pump, I ran an extra ground wire from the fuel pump to the grounding strap on the frame.

Since I had already bought a new fuel pump relay, I went ahead and replaced it. Then the blower control module I'd ordered off of ebay was laying there on the bench, so I replaced it.
Result- one corvette running well, with functioning heat AND air.
Now, I'll hold my breath and see what breaks next.
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Old 09-22-2012, 8:31pm   #15
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Congratulations! One Road Pirate back on the road!

We had faith in you, Bobby! As far as holding your (possum)breath, no deal! The next adventure with tools is always around the corner!
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Old 09-22-2012, 8:37pm   #16
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Whenever the C4 hiccups, just think how much worse it could be.
Things that make you say AW Crap
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Old 12-21-2012, 4:28pm   #17
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I've been quiet about my latest headaches with my personal money pit since it was my own doings....But- I wanna vent again.
I disconnected the battery to clear some codes after cleaning some sensors. Unfortunantly, Einstien here did so and forgot to turn the ignition switch off. Most lamebrained thing I've done in a while. Fried the computer like a piece of bacon.
Got a new one in- interesting trivia I didn't know- a four cylinder five speed S10 from the 80's uses the same computer, and boy did that throw me for a loop- and installed it today. The beast fired right up. It ran better than ever.
I started re-installing dash panels with it ideling, to charge the battery, since it'd sat for over a month. Then I heard a noise...popped the hood just in time to see the dadblasted accessory drive belt self destruct. I KNEW I should've replaced it when I did the water pump, but I didn't have one on hand when I finished the job and wanted to drive it then. Once again my slothfulness and rushing bites me in the butt...

Wife's gonna kill me if she catches me with another car part before the first of the year..
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Old 12-21-2012, 4:38pm   #18
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What is the # of the belt Bobby...I have several that I can't use anymore..They are yours if you want them..Let me know and I'll check.
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Old 12-21-2012, 4:41pm   #19
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What is the # of the belt Bobby...I have several that I can't use anymore..They are yours if you want them..Let me know and I'll check.
I appreciate it.... I'll have to see what it is. The old one shredded so bad there's no way to retrieve the number off of it.
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Old 12-21-2012, 4:42pm   #20
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Quote:
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dadblasted accessory drive belt self destruct.
I wish you would watch your language in here Bobby, so please in the future smarten the fuc& up
Also while you're here, do you mind giving me your wife's cell phone number?
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