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Old 07-13-2010, 12:32am   #21
mariofromnewyork
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cobra4B View Post
Thanks man.... whenever you're back in town come by and I'll trade you your pushrods for that 02-04 airbox lid
Ill stop by Friday.

I have a 02 low milage Z cam we should throw that in and get you some more power.

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Old 07-13-2010, 08:21am   #22
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Nah... not worth it. The base circle on the '02-'04 Z06 cam is smaller so I'd need to futz w/ valvetrain geometry and lifter pre-load. The '02-'04 Z06 actually has slightly longer valvestems so they can both us the same pushrods and rockers etc.
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Old 07-18-2010, 10:33pm   #23
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Got the rear suspension all redone. Took it apart, lightly cleaned the spindles and a-arms, installed fresh hub/bearings with ARP studs, fresh 2004 Z06 shocks, fully deleted the parking brake assembly, installed the hardbar camber kit, and wrapped the lower balljoint and toe-rod end in DEI cool tape. I was able to use the speed sensor connector mount from the front hubs on the rear for a really clean parking brake delete. The spindle ducts going on the front require their removal anyway.





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Old 07-19-2010, 06:07pm   #24
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Brian,

I love that hard bar kit. Can you tell Me how exactly that works?

Mario
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Old 07-19-2010, 07:25pm   #25
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The stock setup uses a bolt with an eccentric on one end. The hole in the cradle that is passes through is actually a slot. As you rotate the bolt the eccentric forces the A-arm in/out. The farther you move the lower A-arm out the more negative camber youll have. Plus the stock setup relies on clamp load to keep the setting in place. This hardbar kit uses the aluminum locating blocks to fix the camber in place... it cant move. If that didnt make much sense I can show you next time you stop by and its very easy to understand when you see it.

Its not really a good thing for a street car because you end up with about -2.5 degrees in the front and -1.5 rear which wouldnt be very nice to street tires.
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Old 07-19-2010, 08:55pm   #26
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Makes perfect sense and thanks for that. I Just bought one of their hard bars.

Did you find that ring I need it bad!

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Old 07-19-2010, 11:12pm   #27
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I know its here... its just in a box somewhere.

Dirty 119k rear brakes




Cleaned them up, serviced the slide pins and installed Stoptech SS lines


Carbotech XP10 pads (running XP12s up front)


Hardbar Nordlock washers for the caliper bracket bolts... removes the need to use any loc-tite on them


LR done




RR done

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Old 07-19-2010, 11:49pm   #28
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Nice job Brian, I will prolly get up with you this sat. if you are free.
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Old 07-20-2010, 12:08am   #29
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Ill be at VIR all weekend... leaving Thursday. Ill be back Sunday evening around 8ish most likely.
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Old 07-20-2010, 10:14am   #30
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Was commenting on another forum that there were no cost-effective 2-piece rotors available for the fronts... well found some... so ordered a pair of these w/ spare rotor rings. Will keep the front rotors off the car as super last ditch track spares and return the NAPA fronts I allready purchased.

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Old 07-20-2010, 11:12am   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cobra4B View Post
Was commenting on another forum that there were no cost-effective 2-piece rotors available for the fronts... well found some... so ordered a pair of these w/ spare rotor rings. Will keep the front rotors off the car as super last ditch track spares and return the NAPA fronts I allready purchased.

Where'd you find them and cost?
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Old 07-20-2010, 11:25am   #32
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KNSBrakes out of Raleigh.... he has a thread going in the Auto-X/RR section of CF... PM him for the pricing Tell him I referred you as I'm trying to get him to sponsor me.
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Old 07-20-2010, 11:44pm   #33
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Got the new timing cover installed along with the new ATI Superdamper. Its a 10% underdriven unit w/o the AC pulley. Its pinned and I used an ARP crank bolt for a good dose of overkill. Had to put the rear wheels/tires on and the back on the ground so I could torque the crank bolt etc. At first I tired torqing it in 4th gear and the car wanted to move forward off the front stands when load was applied to the driveline, but 6th gear and me standing in front of the car did the trick.

I did hit one snag... I tried using my ATI pin kit drill fixture to center the timing cover per a LS1tech members recommendation. This allows you to go ahead and torque the timing cover down then install the balancer whenever you want to. This is more akin to the GM manual method where they have a special tool to hold the timing cover centered, then they install the front main w/ another special tool. The shadetree mechanic (i.e. LS1howto.com) method is to leave the timing cover loose when installing the balancer so it self-centers, then torque the cover bolts to spec.

Well the method of using the ATI drilling fixture worked great... problem was that when I removed it I couldnt get the pin in the hole as it was 1/2 blocked by the timing cover and front main! So I boogered up the front main trying to pull it out w/ the timing cover on the car and stopped and removed the timing cover... luckily I had a spare front main seal... cleaned it all up and re-did it all the LS1howto.com way that I have always used in the past.

Oh... and Im not sure if those hex head screws on the balancer will clear the steering rack... may have to call ATI tomorrow. My Superdamper on the yellow car didnt have them.





17x9.5s on the rear (stock Z06 front wheels) w/ 275/40s on the ground for the first time.... they look pretty flush. I wasnt sure if Id want to run a spacer or not. Well see when I get the suspension all setup.

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Old 07-21-2010, 10:20am   #34
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Well found out some info on my issues:

1. The reason the crank pin hole was too far back and blocked by the timing cover/front main was because I drilled it w/ the oil pump off the car. This allowed the drill fixture to seat on a little farther. Most people drill/pin with the oil pump still in place so the hole ends up for toward the end of the crank.

2. The balancer I bought is an older design. ATI sold it to ThunderRacking back in 6/2007 and the cap head bolts will hit the steering rack. Upated y-body balancers have all flush hardware that is countersunk. So I have to pull the balancer part (Nice thing about the ATI is it's 2 part so I don't have to mess with the crank bolt or front main) and send it to ATI to be updated. Will cost me $40 + shipping but oh well. I could go get regular hex headed bolts but they'd still be really close to the rack and could contact on really hard braking, so I'd rather not take any chances and have to re-redo it all.
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Old 07-21-2010, 05:03pm   #35
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I see the build is coming along well. I love seeing build in progress.
Are you gonna be free this weekend, maybe sunday? I leave monday for NC and I need to get up with you.
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Old 07-21-2010, 11:01pm   #36
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Im leaving for VIR tomorrow around 1:30 Ill be back Sunday evening. Nicole will be home all weekend. I guess you could just mail me a check or put one in my mailbox.
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Old 07-25-2010, 05:28pm   #37
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Installed some DEI heat shield on the tunnel plate and sides of the tunnel etc.




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Old 07-26-2010, 07:50am   #38
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Cool post !
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Old 07-28-2010, 10:32pm   #39
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Front and rear tow hooks and rear T1 swaybar installed. The tow hooks are a hinged/folding design from Phoenix Performance. To install the rear you have to remove the bumper to replace the OEM muffler hanger bracket/bolt setup because the bolts are too short once the towhook is inserted between the hanger and rear frame bar. I fabbed up one to mimic the OEM piece so I could remove the muffler in the future if needed w/o having to take the bumper off again. If you just stuck longer bolts through theyd just spin if you ever needed to unnbolt the muffler hanger. The front bumper was allready off so it was a non-issue. Also, used some washers to lower the drivers side muffler hanger so I can allign the exhaust tips eventually.

Rear





Rear Bar



Front

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Old 07-29-2010, 08:35am   #40
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U got some Skilz Brian...
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