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Old 02-04-2013, 01:01pm   #41
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You might get lucky putting in a cam and lifters, but, personally, I think it's a lot of work to put into an engine that's probably on it's last legs anyway. The crate engine makes sense if you're going to keep and drive the car for a while. I think I agree with Fastguy, that a cheap good running 350 from craigslist makes to most sense.
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Old 02-04-2013, 01:44pm   #42
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from what I can see of the cam, it doesn't look bad. I rotated it with the lifters out, and didn't see anything unusual.
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Old 02-04-2013, 06:18pm   #43
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I went and rotated the engine by hand, I measured each lifter's rise with a digital caliper, and each got to right about .3" (some variation of .005" or so, but I can't get my caliper square on the lifter)
So I guess that means my cam is good...

I'm willing to bet that powder is left over from the heads being magnafluxed.
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Old 02-04-2013, 06:31pm   #44
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But, don't you have some horrendous internal noises too?
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Old 02-04-2013, 06:39pm   #45
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there's a squeak, still have no idea what that is and it sounds like it's coming from the clutch... using a stethoscope, I only have the noise at the bottom of the clutch area, but if I move up 2 inches on either side, it becomes very subdued.
I never heard a noise besides the valve train.
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Old 02-04-2013, 07:30pm   #46
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Lifters are cheap. But, I have to wonder why you had so many bad lifters in the first place.
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Old 02-04-2013, 07:37pm   #47
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no idea.
so the failed are
exhaust: 1, 4, 8
Intake: 2, 4, 5

so I guess only 6.
I plan on replacing them all, and I'd hate to get them and have still have to replace the engine, but I'd hate to replace the engine if the lifters fix it.
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Old 02-04-2013, 07:52pm   #48
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with that many failed lifters, i'd be seriously looking at minimum changing the cam.
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Old 02-04-2013, 08:37pm   #49
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We've got an old '98 Honda Accord that we use to haul the dog around in, and it's got a magnetic drain plug on the automatic transmission. The first time I went to change the automatic transmission fluid(I'm thinking it was around 100,000 miles), I noticed that the drain plug was absolutely covered with very fine ferrous particles.

It didn't seem to hurt the transmission any as we have put many thousands of miles on that transmission and I have changed the fluid a couple of times since then too.

I think if it was mine I would put in a new cam and lifters. Reassemble everything back together, change the oil, then run it for a little while. I'd then take an oil sample and send it off to see if metal particles are still being generated in the oil.

Of course if the engine has a ton of miles on it, then I'd probably be looking to rebuild it or swapping it out for another.
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Old 02-04-2013, 08:39pm   #50
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We've got an old '98 Honda Accord that we use to haul the dog around in, and it's got a magnetic drain plug on the automatic transmission. The first time I went to change the automatic transmission fluid(I'm thinking it was around 100,000 miles), I noticed that the drain plug was absolutely covered with very fine ferrous particles.

It didn't seem to hurt the transmission any as we have put many thousands of miles on that transmission and I have changed the fluid a couple of times since then too.

I think if it was mine I would put in a new cam and lifters. Reassemble everything back together, change the oil, then run it for a little while. I'd then take an oil sample and send it off to see if metal particles are still being generated in the oil.

Of course if the engine has a ton of miles on it, then I'd probably be looking to rebuild it or swapping it out for another.
101k on the clock.
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Old 02-04-2013, 08:42pm   #51
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101k on the clock.
That's easily 3/4 of a ton.
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Old 02-04-2013, 08:48pm   #52
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101k on the clock.
I think I'd gamble with a new cam and lifters then. Reusing the cam would make me worry.
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Old 02-04-2013, 08:49pm   #53
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if I go with a new cam and lifter, would I not then need new rods too?
Mine are still straight (i rolled them on a pane of glass)
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Old 02-04-2013, 08:59pm   #54
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if I go with a new cam and lifter, would I not then need new rods too?
Mine are still straight (i rolled them on a pane of glass)
Yeah, you should get new pushrods too. I know that's what the cam manufacturers would recommend. I have reused pushrods in the past on a Ford 302, but there's a reason why cam manufacturers don't want you to reuse them(perhaps it is the hardness of the used pushrods versus new pushrods IIRC).

I haven't changed a cam in 20 years so things may have changed, but I doubt they've changed too much.
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Old 02-04-2013, 09:54pm   #55
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Summit Racing® Cam and Lifter Kits SUM-K1102 - SummitRacing.com
?

stock: Duration @ 0.050", 202/206, lift .403/.415 , Lobe seperation 115 degrees
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Old 02-04-2013, 10:05pm   #56
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Summit Racing® Cam and Lifter Kits SUM-K1102 - SummitRacing.com
?

stock: Duration @ 0.050", 202/206, lift .403/.415 , Lobe seperation 115 degrees
That is probably a decent cam, but I thought the motor was metal on metal when you crank it?
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Old 02-04-2013, 10:08pm   #57
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That is probably a decent cam, but I thought the motor was metal on metal when you crank it?
not that I heard, just the nasty valve rattle.
there's the squeak, but I'm still not sure where it's coming from.
I'm going to drop the oil pan before I order anything.
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Old 02-04-2013, 10:10pm   #58
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Quote:
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That is probably a decent cam, but I thought the motor was metal on metal when you crank it?
The motor was together when I heard it, I guess it could have been all lifters making the noise, but I'd be extremely Leary of that motor.
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Old 02-04-2013, 10:19pm   #59
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The motor was together when I heard it, I guess it could have been all lifters making the noise, but I'd be extremely Leary of that motor.
this is the last video I did with it running.

I have the rockers loosened up so the valves will close, that's the racket.
I tested the rotation on the cam, and all the lifters go up the same distance (.3 inches) There's no shiny metal bits anywhere, just that powder, but it's not actually on any components, which is odd.

I finally was able to talk to my Father-in-law, who used to run a repair shop, he recommended throwing in some new lifters and see what the does. Worst case scenario is that I get a new set of lifter for the next engine... I don't know, everything I found points to just the lifters.

The squeak is baffling, but once I pull the pan, I should be able to see more.
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Old 02-04-2013, 11:23pm   #60
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What is the oil pressure like at idle?
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