Any hints on using metal studs.

[kingpin]

I'm starting to think that I may cut the height of the wall down to a sheet of drywall at 8'.
Use standard wood framing for the doorway opening and then use the metal studs I salvaged for the rest.
I didn't mention this but I won't be actually hanging doors in the opening. Just leaving it as a walk-through from workroom to showroom.
Worse comes to worse I can shore up the wall from the work room side to offer more support.

[oahuyahoo]

In that condition we do what is called toe-nailing. Put a screw in the corner of the stud and screw it into the drywall at an angle, directly across from it do it again. It will never pull out we do this all the time. I'd use about 15 pairs with that length. After you mount the two end studs snap a line between them and screw your top track. Be careful to place the chalkline directly where you need it otherwise you have a mess to clean on your acoustic ceiling.
With that height I'd also use 20 ga. studs, a little less flimsy.

[mrvette]

Originally Posted by kingpin

I'm starting to think that I may cut the height of the wall down to a sheet of drywall at 8'.
Use standard wood framing for the doorway opening and then use the metal studs I salvaged for the rest.
I didn't mention this but I won't be actually hanging doors in the opening. Just leaving it as a walk-through from workroom to showroom.
Worse comes to worse I can shore up the wall from the work room side to offer more support.

I was going to ask why you needed go to the drop ceiling height, i'ts just a privacy wall, I suppose, and this way you don't have to worry over any HVAC circulation problems....

Hell of a lot easier than screwing around with ladders and such overkill.....

not to mention time and cost....

[Jeff '79]

Go on Craig's list and buy office cubicle wall....Do you really need a full height wall to separate the space ? You could still hang frame examples off that , pretty easily.

[LATB]

Originally Posted by kingpin

I'm starting to think that I may cut the height of the wall down to a sheet of drywall at 8'.
Use standard wood framing for the doorway opening and then use the metal studs I salvaged for the rest.
I didn't mention this but I won't be actually hanging doors in the opening. Just leaving it as a walk-through from workroom to showroom.
Worse comes to worse I can shore up the wall from the work room side to offer more support.

Don't "stand up" the drywall...it looks like crap finished (yes, many commercial guys do it...and yes the joints jump right out at you)

Not a bad idea to build an 8' wall w/ perpendicular supporting walls behind, you could incorporate the supporting walls into storage space and hang shelving from it.

[Datawiz]

Originally Posted by oahuyahoo

In that condition we do what is called toe-nailing. Put a screw in the corner of the stud and screw it into the drywall at an angle, directly across from it do it again. It will never pull out we do this all the time. I'd use about 15 pairs with that length. After you mount the two end studs snap a line between them and screw your top track. Be careful to place the chalkline directly where you need it otherwise you have a mess to clean on your acoustic ceiling.
With that height I'd also use 20 ga. studs, a little less flimsy.

[oahuyahoo]

Originally Posted by datawiz

Little more practice and you just may make a photochopper yet.

[oahuyahoo]

Originally Posted by kingpin

Worse comes to worse I can shore up the wall from the work room side to offer more support.

How do you plan to do this?

[simpleman68]

Originally Posted by oahuyahoo

How do you plan to do this?

Well, duh.... screw a cross brace into the drop ceiling panels with them Tapcon thingys.
Scott

[oahuyahoo]

Originally Posted by simpleman68

Well, duh.... screw a cross brace into the drop ceiling panels with them Tapcon thingys.
Scott

[kingpin]

Before demo.


After demo. Kinda!


That blue wall on the left(middle photo) is the wall that needs to be extended right across.
I've decided that I am going straight to the ceiling with it.
Reason being is that when people are in the showroom they won't be able to see the unfinished work area as I plan on finishing the work area while the store is open. Remember this is a one man operation so I need to get the showroom done most importantly so I can open asap.
This also means that I do need to put doors in. At least I kept a few doors from the demo that I can use.

I also need to change almost all the ceiling tiles in the showroom. They are in bad shape and I don't know how I missed adding that into the reno budget.

The plan is to use 3 wood 2x4's placed every 9 feet which will be sistered to the metal studs. They will go up into the ceiling and attached to the metal rafters in some form.

I liked Larry's idea of using shelves to strengthen up the wall which is what I will do as well as the worktables that will be built.

I dumped most of the drywall today, 3 trips to the dump equalling almost 1 ton. Old carpet was dumped yesterday. All that's left is a couple small piles of drywall which will be the last trip to the dump tomorrow.
Had a metal scrap guy come and pickup all the old metal studs and such so that cleaned up the area a little.

Here is a pic of the ceiling. Got a little zap from some telephone wires inside the ceiling. Nothing major as it's low voltage but was more surprised than anything. I don't like being surprised 13' in the air on a rickety aluminum ladder that doesn't meet my weight requirements.

[simpleman68]

Ok..... but I don't see mounts for the brass pole.
Scott

[Jeff '79]

Wow, I can't believe that they tied the top of the wall to the ceiling tile grid. The trusses run front to back so it's easy....Just attach metal studs to the top of the wall ,and then up to the truss, and connect them with steel bands. Do one on each side, every other truss. That should cure the shear effect sufficiently.

[kingpin]

Originally Posted by simpleman68

Ok..... but I don't see mounts for the brass pole.
Scott

That will be in the private office in the back.

Originally Posted by Jeff '79

Wow, I can't believe that they tied the top of the wall to the ceiling tile grid. The trusses run front to back so it's easy....Just attach metal studs to the top of the wall ,and then up to the truss, and connect them with steel bands. Do one on each side, every other truss. That should cure the shear effect sufficiently.

You are not going to be happy to hear this but I will be doing the same plus what I mentioned earlier.

[oahuyahoo]

We do it all the time it's standard operating procedure.

Originally Posted by Jeff '79

Wow, I can't believe that they tied the top of the wall to the ceiling tile grid. The trusses run front to back so it's easy....Just attach metal studs to the top of the wall ,and then up to the truss, and connect them with steel bands. Do one on each side, every other truss. That should cure the shear effect sufficiently.

[oahuyahoo]

Originally Posted by kingpin

That will be in the private office in the back.



You are not going to be happy to hear this but I will be doing the same plus what I mentioned earlier.

You're making life really hard on yourself.

[Jeff '79]

Originally Posted by oahuyahoo

We do it all the time it's standing operating procedure.

oh.....

[LATB]

Originally Posted by Jeff '79

oh.....

oahuyahoo is correct.

commercial build-out guys do it all the time if the drop ceiling is already in place.

[kingpin]

Wall is partially built on the floor.
except for the door opening.

Now I'm trying to figure out how ti raise it by
myself.

I chose to build it out of wood.
I see this ending badly wit no help.

: lol:

[simpleman68]

Originally Posted by kingpin

Wall is partially built on the floor.
except for the door opening.

Now I'm trying to figure out how ti raise it by
myself.

I chose to build it out of wood.
I see this ending badly wit no help.

: lol:

Use a rope over your top plate and use the steel truss with a pulley if you have one. Without it, that wall will either be too heavy, or twist as you raise it.
That is not easily done with one person.
Scott