{RACE CAR} You electrical gurus...

[RedLS1GTO]

...are f'n nuts.

I just spent who knows how many hours re-doing essentially the entire wiring harness/switch panel on the race car. I started with a 12 year old knot of wires and half-assery, added a used Roush/Yates NASCAR switch panel and did some modifying to make it work for my needs. Everything from the main ignition to the starter, blowers, coolers, etc run through a single panel now as opposed to stuff spliced and stuck everywhere. I still need to make new labels of course. It might not look like much, but I think it looks damned good compared to what it started out as. Hopefully it's a project I don't have to repeat anytime soon.







I didn't take a picture after I cleaned up all of the loose wires but you get the point...



New valve springs went in today, hopefully main bearings done tomorrow, new seat going in, used NASCAR oil sump and trans and diff coolers from Roush ...

It might take all winter, but the halfassery will be exorcised from this SOB eventually.

#coperocket

[RedLS1GTO]

Originally Posted by Off Topic

Is that a late model ? Steel or fiberglass body ?

It's a former ASA series car, 105" Howe chassis turned into a road course racer. Fiberglass Fivestar body.

[RED-85-Z51]

Run heavy wire to the switches, or running relays?

[RedLS1GTO]

Originally Posted by RED-85-Z51

Run heavy wire to the switches, or running relays?

Depends on what's being switched...

The wiring is all BMRS MILSPEC M22759, it is all done with Deutsch connectors, and the switches are all Eaton MILSPEC... all of it straight out of a Roush Racing cup car, all fused, and all rated to far exceed the load that they will be powering on my car.

You don't have to run bulky parts store "heavy wire" all over the place when the things being powered don't need it. That's a big part of how you end up with a rat's nest of sh*t taped together and zip tied under the dash.

Use the right wire, right switches, and right connectors for the job.
http://bmrswired.com/BMRS_wired_catalog_lo-res.pdf

[island14]

Did you solder all of the connector ends?

I learned the hard way that they sometimes tend to vibrate loose over time if you don't

[RedLS1GTO]

Originally Posted by island14

Did you solder all of the connector ends?

I learned the hard way that they sometimes tend to vibrate loose over time if you don't

Absolutely everything is soldered. I've had multiple wires come apart at connections on the car already, which was a big part of the reason that this project happened.

Interestingly enough, when I pulled it apart, the hot wire to the starter switch literally fell apart at both ends. I can't believe it worked at all.

The whole thing was a mess.

[RedLS1GTO]

Originally Posted by Off Topic

Interesting. I was always told not to solder because it makes the wire prone to breaking. That is why they don't solder wires in aircraft or boats.

It really depends on the type of connection. On something like the specialty connectors and the types that are used in big dollar applications like aircraft, solder is not required (or recommended in most cases). On the El Cheapo hardware store crimp connectors, I personally use it. Connections with a generic crimp tool and Chinabomb connectors are sketchy at best. Too much solder will absolutely make a connection brittle. You don't want to do that. Just a touch flowed into the connector will help hold it together.

I do stand corrected from my original statement... all of the connections that should be soldered, are soldered. The Deutsch connectors, etc, are not.

[mrvette]

I dunno, old Weller soldering station here, 800 W?? and so I have soldered ALL my wires directly to relay/switch terminals, but then again I been doing it for over 60 years now, not ONCE as one my solder jobs given grief or broken down.....not even the wires.....my '72 vette treated same for some 22 years now......

All else is BS, trust me.....learn how to solder.....

[RedLS1GTO]

Originally Posted by Off Topic

I think if I was going to solder them, I'd cold solder. In other words get a hot glob on the iron and then put it to the wire. Less heat to get the wire brittle.

If done correctly with even remotely decent wire, there is no reason that soldering would make the wire itself brittle. Not at all. Cu is not hardened by heat.

What is brittle is the solder joint itself when subjected to excessive forces or vibration. Wire usually requires some flexibility. When the solder is there, that flexibility goes away.

[VatorMan]

These are the connectors I use. Highly effective.

https://www.fastenal.com/web/products/details/0726306

[JRD77VET]

Nice work on the wiring

What machines do you have in the shop? I see a Bridgeport mill and possibly a bandsaw ( to the right with a bottom mount motor )

Jeff

[ZipZap]

Excellent work. I have all of the data/sensor harnesses built for my new ride. I tend to agree with the statement that solder should only be used where it's necessary. I bought the $250 four prong crimp tool for the Deutsch connectors. That tool is sweet! Everything is protected with DR-25 and Raychem boots. I got my stuff from these guys:

https://www.prowireusa.com/

Can't wait to finish my move and get back to the build!

Definitely always nice to clean up a mess and get stuff the way you want.

[ZipZap]

Hey, I just noticed the lift. How do you like it? Does it get off of the floor high enough? I've seen them for a pretty reasonable price and it would be great to have one at the track when I'm waffling on rain tires...

[RedLS1GTO]

Originally Posted by JRD77VET

Nice work on the wiring

What machines do you have in the shop? I see a Bridgeport mill and possibly a bandsaw ( to the right with a bottom mount motor )

Jeff

It's not my shop... I'm just lucky enough to have access to it. The owner of it has been a mechanic and drag racer since before I was born and over the years has built a hell of a place. It has just about anything you could ever need except a lathe. A couple of lifts, Bridgeport, saws, good air, presses, tire mounting equipment ... you name it.

Originally Posted by ZipZap

Hey, I just noticed the lift. How do you like it? Does it get off of the floor high enough? I've seen them for a pretty reasonable price and it would be great to have one at the track when I'm waffling on rain tires...

I prefer this.



The Quick Jacks are good for what they are. This was the first time we've had a car up on them. If you are changing tires, it would be a lot faster to use a regular jack. I think we'll have to wait until the time comes to see if they go to the track or not. They're bulkier than they look. The 3500lb set is high enough for most garage type work. The 5000lb set is a bit higher. I really don't know if you could get them under a Vette or not. I had to jack up the rear of the stock car a bit to get them under.

[JRD77VET]

Originally Posted by RedLS1GTO

It's not my shop... I'm just lucky enough to have access to it. The owner of it has been a mechanic and drag racer since before I was born and over the years has built a hell of a place. It has just about anything you could ever need except a lathe. A couple of lifts, Bridgeport, saws, good air, presses, tire mounting equipment ... you name it.



..........

Since you have access to a Bridgeport, I can do lathe work for you and you could finish it if needed.

he has a very nice setup

[RedLS1GTO]

A little more done... got new Isky valve springs put in it and the top end put back together, got the pan off (colossal PITA) inspected everything in the bottom end, cleaned it up and got it back together. We had to jack the engine up to get the pan off. Hopefully that can get back in place and buttoned up tomorrow.

New big ass oil sump (used from a Roush cup car) is next in line to get put in along with a nifty carbon fiber overflow tank. You can see the sump on the ground in the pic of the car on the lift. The old sump is to the left in front of the T-bird. The new one is more towards the middle of the pic. All that needs to be plumbed. Then comes the new seat... trans cooler, diff cooler along with some Kyle Busch Motorsports and Gibbs carbon fiber ductwork... the fun is never ending.

[RED-85-Z51]

Ive stopped most of my soldering, I found that with the vibrations and stuff with small engine repair, I have to use a sleeve, or alot of tape to support the wire connection, else..the wire just breaks off (Ive done alot of soldering, both with an iron, and a butane torch)...

Ive started to use these posi-Lock fasteners, I did a complete rewire on a Z mower, and he was coming back every couple weeks with a broken wire here and there, always the same issue..solder was fine, but the wire immediately after the solder, failed.

So, I redid it with posi locks where possible, and he went 6 months, no problems...running 50 hours a week, about 200 hours a month...he literaly put about 800 hours on it this year...

Im sold on em, a bit spendy, but its nice to be able to unscrew them and disassemble the connection if needed...They support the wire, and you ARE NOT pulling them apart...

As far as connections to switches, I use crimps, with the heat shrink built in, and I use it...supports the wire, no soldering...

But, I use relays, lots of relays...I LOVE relays. Everything I add to my trucks, I add a relay, do something to a tractor...relay that bitch. Takes the heavy load off the switch, and should result in less power drop running the hot wires to the cab, then to the resistor/fan/etc...

[Kerrmudgeon]

Why screw around with that puny auto stuff......

[Nemesis]

Forget that. Electricals are the one thing I don't touch.

[island14]

Originally Posted by RedLS1GTO

If done correctly with even remotely decent wire, there is no reason that soldering would make the wire itself brittle. Not at all. Cu is not hardened by heat.

What is brittle is the solder joint itself when subjected to excessive forces or vibration. Wire usually requires some flexibility. When the solder is there, that flexibility goes away.

When I say soldered I don't mean globs of it like welding.. just enough to insure that it does not shake loose.

The crimp on connectors do not do it good enough to make it safe.

Say what you want.. but it cost me a race and a finish one night when I lost a hot wire to the MSD ignition.

After that hard learned lesson... I did it like OP did and never had a problem after.