Rough as HELL......
 

I readjusted the valves, pushed the down 1/4 turn and locked them tight.....as suggested by DJ Crit......and really no diff in the rough running.....I have no clue as to watt is the problem......getting into an issue of cam timing off a tooth or what???

'89 4 bolt main block, roller cam-L98, LT1 intake with HEI up top where is belongs.....I do have ceramic plug boots on there......and they are a bit loose feeling, but never an issue in the past.....tired of spending money, and getting tired of working on it.....

Any suggestions???


:confused5:

Only one thing guaranteed to make a person happy in that kind of situation... Get a new one. Smiles for miles :D

Age 77 and no $$$$....oh well......:sadangel::shots:

Just drop in a simple small block crate engine with a carb, mechanical fuel pump and HEI Distributor. It will be reliable enough for your purposes. :island14:

Nuke it from orbit. Many of us here have tried to advise you. You are a stubborn man.

That’s been suggested…

I thought this was another Knooger colonoscopy thread :leaving:

Since you first started on this, it's been quite an adventure in disappointment.
At this stage, I'd do a compression check just to see what cylinders are affected.
I would pop the water pump and pull the timing cover and check the cam/crank index marks.
That would rule out valve timing.
If that's good, your distributor may be a tooth or two off. verify with timing mark.

I feel your pain, Gene.

Call DJ's fam.

Ask them what could you have messed up after the work. I have had good help from family shops that have worked on my stuff.

Spark
Compression
Fuel
Air

You said its running but rough, so you do have "spark"
Compression and air....


Get back to the injectors/rail O rings and regulator.
To repeat others, again while its running pull off one plug wire at a time, if no change that cylinder is not operating/firing/ or getting fuel.....:waiting:

From your last thread:

My suggestion is he removes the hood, pull the air filter cover off, hold it just above the engine bay, then roll the vette out from under it. Roll a newer running vette in place and secure the air filter cover. Problem solved.

:rofl: :rofl: :rofl:

Any test gear out there to say which cyl is running rough/not firing right??

like a timing light on #1 and so to take the count off the tach pulse, and ID the bad cyl??

Pull the plug wires one by one. When it doesn't change, you found it.

I been pulling the injectors one by one.....damn little to no change.....VERY subtle if any.....

Firing order in sync with he cam?

I put a 351 Windsor cam in my 302 and had to change the firing order.

He's got a mild mid range cam for a 350 sb. I'm sure it didn't jump time or that the cam was installed wrong because he's not hearing any metal on metal stuff banging into itself when the engine tries to run.

Gene, you got fuel. check the spark first. You could have a bad distributor.

Looks ok on timing light, I changed plug wiring/caps....engine runs more or less ok, just shakes like HELL, and misfires under load I have drive it a bit around the block, tried to warm it up a bit,.....pulled two plugs and found them wet/black like too much fuel...oil?? I waiting for warmer this PM, and going to check the O2 sensor output, it's a heated unit, and new maybe 1.5 years ago....:sadangel::issues:

Kinda sounds like a vacuum leak somewhere to me...