C5 center of gravity
 

Has anyone removed just your transmission of just your engine?
I need to remove my engine for a rear main cover gasket leak and I don't want it to tip off from the hoist backwards. Is there a better place to lift it from than the lift slots?
If it would stay put I will drop it through the bottom, if not I will pull it out the top
Any thoughts?

If I remember correctly the C5 has close to a 50-50 weight distribution. Most all drive line repairs were done by dropping them out the bottom. Got rid of my 98 when the C6s came out.

If you have a lift already its MUCH easier to drop the whole thing out the bottom. Yes you can pull the engine from the top but it sucks getting it back in...we managed to get mine back in but crushed the slave cyl and had to pull the drivetrain anyways.

I have a center post in-ground which makes dropping the driverine as a whole impossible and it is an automatic car so it looks like an easy slide-out/ back in.
The front cradle falls right out so if the car will stay on the lift I'm thinking setting it in my file cabinet, that thing is very well built, which sits on my pallet jack for rolling forward than up the car goes assuming the the torque tube will rest on the tunnel platehttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...85a30863f2.jpg

A quick Google search suggests a 2 post lift be used to lift the body clear of the entire driveline to include torque tube and rear end. There are videos galore.

I removed my entire C5 torque-tube/transaxle using a tranny jack (after the car was lifted)

http://tim-yvonne.com/mikemercury/342.htm

I did read that post along with a couple of others
By reading those I decided to pull the engine since it needed a water pump as well.
AND while it's out a cam, springs, T-Chain & a Halltech cold air. Headers and higher stall torque converter may have to wait for the $$ to catch up

I removed the torque tube and transmission all as one unit with it on jack stands. It’s a pretty simple process.

I got my Halltech killer bee II in the mail yesterday
So an air filter and a plastic tube for $650 sounds crazy!
It did come with a new MAF sensor
BUT
it didn't come with the coupling to connect it to the throttle body that's another $50
BOY! I hope its worth it

This C5?

Attachment 44832

I'm around those every day. Pretty crazy looking at them on jacks in the hangar with the gears pulled.:yesnod:

Heh, my first thought too when I read the title.

More, the C5 is a maintenance queen. The MICAP rate is ~50%. MICAP, MIssion CAPability.

You lower the front ramp and can expect the plane to break for any/all reasons.

Aircraft pallets get stuck often and one of my favorite memories is from RMS, Ramstein Air Base, Germany. During flight, a pallet on the front ramp became jammed. We had pushed, pulled, and used plenty of other tricks to relieve the jam without success. The Chief, E9, Loadmaster decided to use the solid steel and about five foot long pry bar. He got the pallet loose to the snickers and chuckles of the load crew. How? He beat the hell out of and destroyed the pallet.

Raise the car in the air, and stick a custom-cut 4x4 under the front or back as required so the missing engine weight imbalance is a non-issue. Source: am an engineer but not a mechanic but can imagine scenarios. Then ensure no-one bumps into that stick. That's the important part.

That's the original plan, if I can get the lift pads back far enough to stay on the hoist I will drop the engine out the bottom. If I don't feel safe with that I have 6X6 lumber to do just that

It’s not an issue.

Is the front pad under the lift hole area? Or further forward?

They are situated under the shipping eyelets. Right where your pucks should be.

I have taken the whole drivetrain out a couple of times. Always used the lifting holes for lift pad placement.

That brings me to another question, lift points!
Some remove the intake and I see that you removed exhaust manifolds

I have LT headers. It just makes it easier. Plus if you use the GM engine lifting tools, they bolt into the head.