What are you doing Friday or Saturday night I need to stop buy and go shoping?
Mario |
Damn, you don't mess around.:cheers:
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Gutted already...lol.
Once Mario has raided the garage, post up what ya got left in the F/S section. I may know someone who have a 2001 Mag Red Vert that may see something he needs. :leaving: |
Pulled the dash and center console structure and took out much of the HVAC system that I don't need. Prepping to pull the HVAC unit and remove the evaporator and heater core then put it back in to retain the defroster for early morning sessions when the glass wants to fog up. Also pulled the airbags, have to get a special wheel puller to get the wheel off.
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4040.jpg http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4041.jpg Started on the motor pulling the coilpacks, deleting the AIR system, and got the intake off.... it's rather dirty, but I guess that's what nearly 10 years and 120k does to a motor. http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4037.jpg http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4038.jpg http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4042.jpg http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4043.jpg Looks like one of the end tanks has a leak... time for a new radiator... the current radiator is very clogged with grass/debris and looks like it's never been cleaned. Since C5s are bottom breather it's a good idea to clean the radiator every couple of years. http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4039.jpg |
PM sent about A/C Compressor
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Coming along!!!
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Cleaned up the engine, then removed the front bumper and deleted the horn and unneeded wiires, then yanked out the rest of the AIR pump assembly. Finished off by yanking the radiator, coolant tank, and fans.
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4044.jpg http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4047.jpg http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4051.jpg http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4049.jpg Air pump assembly... in case anyone's wondering it injects air into the exhaust manifold at startup to allow the cats to fire off more quickly for cold start emissions. Worth about 15 lbs. http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4050.jpg EBCM (Electric Brake Contrl Module) out and ready to be repaired... dealer wants $1200 for one of these.... but a guy online will fix them for $150... part of how I got the car so cheap... sellers thought they were looking at another $1500 or so to dump into the car. http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4052.jpg Running out of space... http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4045.jpg http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4046.jpg Some parts came in today... Sparco 353 wheel from OGRacing and 2 17x9.5 forged OEM Z06 wheels. http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4054.jpg http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4053.jpg Oh... I need to get teh AC crap out of the car but I need to evac the system.. does anyone do this? Any mobil HVAC people or is there a kit I can buy at a general auto parts store? |
I just searched around for about 10 mins and well unless you tow it somewhere you might be outta luck without having a Mishap (hint) and it leaks. Unles you buy a sealed container to vacuum it out.
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Virginia Mobil Air Conditioning is going to meet me at my house today at lunch and evac the system for free... he said it was because I was actually trying to be environmentally conscious vs. just unhooking it. I'm sure it has a little to do with the fact that R134a is expensive and they can recycle/sell it, but nontheless I'm pretty stoked about that. I was expecting some sort of serice call fee.
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Looks like you know you way around the c-5. Keep those pics and maybe you can post them in reverse order , in order to show how to build one from the ground up.
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Goodbye AC... horray for way more room...
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4055.jpg http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4056.jpg http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4059.jpg http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4058.jpg http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4060.jpg |
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LOL... yeah I took it all out of my yellow car too. Even had Kooks headers w/o any air tubes at all... not cut off and welded... actually produced w/o air tubes :)
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Mini update... waiting on my parts order from GM Parts House to come in tomorrow before I can do much else, plus I've been finishing house painting this week due to family coming in town for vacation tomorrow.
Stock cast manifolds w/ heat shields http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4063.jpg http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4062.jpg Much better.... wire wheeled a little and sprayed with silver 2000 degree paint. http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4061.jpg Parts pile is growing http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4064.jpg |
Been on vacation all week, but worked on the car off/on and all day yesterday and today.
Pretty darned clean for 120k miles, car has obviously had regular oil changed with synthetic. http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4078.jpg Borrowed a crane dual valve spring compressor to change the springs out. http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4079.jpg Fresh 02-04 Z06 springs which are a little stiffer then the 01 spec springs. Also installed fresh rockers off a lower mileage car and lower mileage pushrods and rocker pedestals I had laying around. http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4086.jpg Got a low mileage H-pipe from a 2004 Z06. The 02-04 piece has 2 cats vs. 4 on the 2001. Wrapped the area that passes under the bell housing and the section that passes under the trans. Keeping heat off the bellhousing keeps the clutch hydraulics cooler so the pedal works properly throughout a session and the rear part keeps the trans cooler. http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4081.jpg http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4082.jpg Rear O2s plugged http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4080.jpg Whole thing http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4091.jpg LS2 timing chain, LS4 high-volume pump installed and crank drilled for ATI pin setup. Found a crack in the timing cover by the front main so will have to order a new one before getting it buttoned up and the new crank damper on. http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4092.jpg AIR pump block-offs installed http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4083.jpg Heat shields re-installed and manifolds back on the motor http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4094.jpg http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4093.jpg DRM track oil cooler kit came in... uses a Setrab 625 cooler.... pretty large http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4084.jpg Adapter block installed and lines run http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4101.jpg http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4102.jpg Cut up the dash and removed all unneeded HVAC ducting. Its setup to blow air out the center vent and the defroster only. I pulled the HVAC unit and removed the evap core and heater core http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4095.jpg http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4096.jpg http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4098.jpg http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4097.jpg http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4100.jpg http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4099.jpg http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4105.jpg Dash back in http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4104.jpg Thats all... back to waiting on parts. |
Looks good so far!
Mario |
Thanks man.... whenever you're back in town come by and I'll trade you your pushrods for that 02-04 airbox lid :)
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I have a 02 low milage Z cam we should throw that in and get you some more power. Mario |
Nah... not worth it. The base circle on the '02-'04 Z06 cam is smaller so I'd need to futz w/ valvetrain geometry and lifter pre-load. The '02-'04 Z06 actually has slightly longer valvestems so they can both us the same pushrods and rockers etc.
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Got the rear suspension all redone. Took it apart, lightly cleaned the spindles and a-arms, installed fresh hub/bearings with ARP studs, fresh 2004 Z06 shocks, fully deleted the parking brake assembly, installed the hardbar camber kit, and wrapped the lower balljoint and toe-rod end in DEI cool tape. I was able to use the speed sensor connector mount from the front hubs on the rear for a really clean parking brake delete. The spindle ducts going on the front require their removal anyway.
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4106.jpg http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4116.jpg http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4108.jpg http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4109.jpg http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4110.jpg |
Brian,
I love that hard bar kit. Can you tell Me how exactly that works? Mario |
The stock setup uses a bolt with an eccentric on one end. The hole in the cradle that is passes through is actually a slot. As you rotate the bolt the eccentric forces the A-arm in/out. The farther you move the lower A-arm out the more negative camber youll have. Plus the stock setup relies on clamp load to keep the setting in place. This hardbar kit uses the aluminum locating blocks to fix the camber in place... it cant move. If that didnt make much sense I can show you next time you stop by and its very easy to understand when you see it.
Its not really a good thing for a street car because you end up with about -2.5 degrees in the front and -1.5 rear which wouldnt be very nice to street tires. |
Makes perfect sense and thanks for that. I Just bought one of their hard bars.
Did you find that ring I need it bad! Mario |
I know its here... its just in a box somewhere.
Dirty 119k rear brakes http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4117.jpg http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4119.jpg http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4118.jpg Cleaned them up, serviced the slide pins and installed Stoptech SS lines http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4121.jpg Carbotech XP10 pads (running XP12s up front) http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4120.jpg Hardbar Nordlock washers for the caliper bracket bolts... removes the need to use any loc-tite on them http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4123.jpg LR done http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4124.jpg http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4127.jpg http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4128.jpg RR done http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4129.jpg http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4131.jpg |
Nice job Brian, I will prolly get up with you this sat. if you are free.
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Ill be at VIR all weekend... leaving Thursday. Ill be back Sunday evening around 8ish most likely.
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Was commenting on another forum that there were no cost-effective 2-piece rotors available for the fronts... well found some... so ordered a pair of these w/ spare rotor rings. Will keep the front rotors off the car as super last ditch track spares and return the NAPA fronts I allready purchased.
http://www.knsbrakes.com/core/item/i...ckSLR-5067.jpg |
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KNSBrakes out of Raleigh.... he has a thread going in the Auto-X/RR section of CF... PM him for the pricing :) Tell him I referred you as I'm trying to get him to sponsor me.
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Got the new timing cover installed along with the new ATI Superdamper. Its a 10% underdriven unit w/o the AC pulley. Its pinned and I used an ARP crank bolt for a good dose of overkill. Had to put the rear wheels/tires on and the back on the ground so I could torque the crank bolt etc. At first I tired torqing it in 4th gear and the car wanted to move forward off the front stands when load was applied to the driveline, but 6th gear and me standing in front of the car did the trick.
I did hit one snag... I tried using my ATI pin kit drill fixture to center the timing cover per a LS1tech members recommendation. This allows you to go ahead and torque the timing cover down then install the balancer whenever you want to. This is more akin to the GM manual method where they have a special tool to hold the timing cover centered, then they install the front main w/ another special tool. The shadetree mechanic (i.e. LS1howto.com) method is to leave the timing cover loose when installing the balancer so it self-centers, then torque the cover bolts to spec. Well the method of using the ATI drilling fixture worked great... problem was that when I removed it I couldnt get the pin in the hole as it was 1/2 blocked by the timing cover and front main! So I boogered up the front main trying to pull it out w/ the timing cover on the car and stopped and removed the timing cover... luckily I had a spare front main seal... cleaned it all up and re-did it all the LS1howto.com way that I have always used in the past. Oh... and Im not sure if those hex head screws on the balancer will clear the steering rack... may have to call ATI tomorrow. My Superdamper on the yellow car didnt have them. http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4132.jpg http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4133.jpg http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4135.jpg 17x9.5s on the rear (stock Z06 front wheels) w/ 275/40s on the ground for the first time.... they look pretty flush. I wasnt sure if Id want to run a spacer or not. Well see when I get the suspension all setup. http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4138.jpg |
Well found out some info on my issues:
1. The reason the crank pin hole was too far back and blocked by the timing cover/front main was because I drilled it w/ the oil pump off the car. This allowed the drill fixture to seat on a little farther. Most people drill/pin with the oil pump still in place so the hole ends up for toward the end of the crank. 2. The balancer I bought is an older design. ATI sold it to ThunderRacking back in 6/2007 and the cap head bolts will hit the steering rack. Upated y-body balancers have all flush hardware that is countersunk. So I have to pull the balancer part (Nice thing about the ATI is it's 2 part so I don't have to mess with the crank bolt or front main) and send it to ATI to be updated. Will cost me $40 + shipping but oh well. I could go get regular hex headed bolts but they'd still be really close to the rack and could contact on really hard braking, so I'd rather not take any chances and have to re-redo it all. |
I see the build is coming along well. I love seeing build in progress.
Are you gonna be free this weekend, maybe sunday? I leave monday for NC and I need to get up with you. |
Im leaving for VIR tomorrow around 1:30 Ill be back Sunday evening. Nicole will be home all weekend. I guess you could just mail me a check or put one in my mailbox.
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Installed some DEI heat shield on the tunnel plate and sides of the tunnel etc.
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4140.jpg http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4141.jpg http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4143.jpg http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4142.jpg |
Cool post ! :yesnod:
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Front and rear tow hooks and rear T1 swaybar installed. The tow hooks are a hinged/folding design from Phoenix Performance. To install the rear you have to remove the bumper to replace the OEM muffler hanger bracket/bolt setup because the bolts are too short once the towhook is inserted between the hanger and rear frame bar. I fabbed up one to mimic the OEM piece so I could remove the muffler in the future if needed w/o having to take the bumper off again. If you just stuck longer bolts through theyd just spin if you ever needed to unnbolt the muffler hanger. The front bumper was allready off so it was a non-issue. Also, used some washers to lower the drivers side muffler hanger so I can allign the exhaust tips eventually.
Rear http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4144.jpg http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4145.jpg http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4146.jpg http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4152.jpg Rear Bar http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4150.jpg http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4149.jpg Front http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4147.jpg http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4148.jpg |
U got some Skilz Brian...:cheers:
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Looking good. :cheers:
How much longer till it's on the track? |
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As usual, great write up :cheers: |
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I'll be with the Mazda group again [ fun bunch] with my stock, black '01 ZO6...will look for you. Have lots of family in area too...
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Sounds good :cheers:
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Hardbar upper control arm studs and camber kit installed up front
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4155.jpg http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4154.jpg Front suspension back together. New Z06 front monoleaf (the one I took off had started to split), fresh wheel hubs w/ ARP studs, new 2004 Z06 shocks, ECS spindle ducts, etc. http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4159.jpg http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4158.jpg http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4162.jpg DRM brake cooling ducts in place. These attach to a modified OEM duct which, in stock form, really only blows air on the tire. Eventually a duct will run from this to the ECS spindle duct, but I have to wait until the steering rack is back in to cut the hose to proper length. http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4169.jpg http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4170.jpg Removed the fender close-out panels. This allows better airflow through the engine bay. http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4172.jpg http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4171.jpg Modified the OEM fan shroud to allow more air flow through the radiator and oil cooler. http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4163.jpg http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4164.jpg Decided to wrap the rest of my h-pipe and used some spare heat shielding I had to make some shields for the top of the cats. http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4166.jpg http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4165.jpg My Pfadt motor mounts and fixed ATI Super Damper should come in early this week so I can finish her up. -Brian |
It was nice to meet you and see your Z06 build up in person. An amazing effort! Keep the photos coming.
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It was a pleasure meeting you too.... you should post up some pictures of your firetruck restoration in the Off Topic section :cheers:
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Done! Take care.
Bill |
My Odyssey battery and Pfadt poly motor mounts came in today. I was able to install the motor mounts by removing the exhaust manifolds and tilting the motor to the side w/ a jack. Normally youhave to lift the motor some and drop the front cradle a little, but since I have so much out of the way I was able to do it in a more direct manner.
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/battery1.jpg http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4173.jpg http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4174.jpg Fabbed up some switch panels out of various plastics. Ill mount my traqmate to the top section. On the bottom I installed the traction control/active handling button, the fuel door popper, and a power poort all scavenged out of the center console etc. http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4177.jpg |
What track advantage do you gain from the new motor mounts?
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It was part preventative maintenance seeing as the car had 119k on it, but the stockers are actualy perfectly fine w/ zero wear (sometimes they tear, but you can't see it until you remove them).
The main advantage is they keep the engine in place under load which is better for pretty much everything. The downside is they icrease vibration at idle and lower rpms.... I'd never do them on a street car. |
A local buddy came over today with some aluminum stock to help me make a new battery hold-down bracket. I also covered the battery in heat reflective sheeting and installed it. The plug you see is to connect a battery tender/charger setup.
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4209.jpg http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4210.jpg http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4212.jpg http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4213.jpg Buddy also brought his cut-off wheel and remvoed the remaining threaded studs on the center tunnel. http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4211.jpg Cleaned up and degreased the PS rack and got it back in place. http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4214.jpg http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4215.jpg My ATI super damper came back from getting updated to the proper y-body flush hardware on Friday so I got that reinstalled as well. |
Brian,
Looks Great Cant wait to see how it does at the track. Maybe Ill roll the my car down and we can beat on that in the mean time. Im going to stop by this weekend want to see that car again. Mario |
Thanks Mario... just shoot me a text or give me a call whenever you want to swing by. Ill be working on it all week as I want to get it done this weekend so I have next weekend to shake it down and get it tuned etc.
Had the old stock fuel injectors off of my old 2001. They had about 1/2 the miles on them so I swapped them in. http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4216.jpg Manifold de-greased and cleaned up. http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4218.jpg New manifold and throttle-body gaskets. http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4219.jpg http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4220.jpg Low mileage stock radiator to replaced the one I pulled out of the car that had a hairline crack in the left end tank. Cleaned out the fins w/ running water and my compressor. http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4217.jpg Radiator w/ fans installed and a new lower radiator hose. http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4221.jpg Starting to look like an engine again. http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4222.jpg http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4223.jpg |
Who is doing your Tune? Any points for that?
Mario |
No points for a tune... most likely Ed.
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ARP header stud kit came in today. Install wasnt as straight forward as initially expected. I had to break out my tap/die set and run a tap through all the holes to clean out the left over crud and anti-seize that comes on the factory bolts. As with anything the passenger side took 1/2 the time of the drivers side as I figured out the process. It was really nice to be able to just hang the gasket and manifold on the studs and torque to spec.
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4225.jpg http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4226.jpg http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4227.jpg Got the PS pump/cooler assembly installed and hooked up, water pump done w/ a 160 degree t-stat, and got the radiator/fan assembly in place. http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4230.jpg http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4229.jpg Oil cooler ready to install http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4232.jpg New coolant tank. Stocker was seeping and very dirty inside. Since I deleted the heater core I just modified one of the lines and ran it directly to the water pump. Normally that line goes back to the firewall to the heater core then back forward to the pump. http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4231.jpg |
Its alive! I got everything ready to go and fired it up. No issues, oil pressure came up after 3-4 seconds and settled in the 60s.... as the car warmed up it had dropped to 51 by the time I had turned it off. Car makes all kinds of bad noises until the lifters pump up, but after that it was quiet w/o any abnormal noises.
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4246.jpg CCA catch can http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4245.jpg Oil pressure good to go... no issues w/ the oil pump o-ring and having to tear it down again http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4243.jpg New fuel filter http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4242.jpg Cleaned up the trans and covered the common seep area w/ high-temp RTV. Changed the trans/diff fluid to Amsoil stuff http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4241.jpg H-pipe w/ the DEI silicone coating on it http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4240.jpg Installed http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4247.jpg Oil cooler installed, lines rounted, T1 front bar in... http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4238.jpg http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4239.jpg |
Why no major mods to the engine or exhaust, is that because of the class you will run in?
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Yeah.... running in TTA I can only do so much. Heres an explanation/overview I posted on another forum.
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Looking Great. https://www.thevettebarn.com/forums/i...ons/icon14.gif
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Got the front brakes all done and the brakes bled with ATE Superblue
DRM ducts completed w/ hose run to the ECS spindle ducts http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4248.jpg DBA rotors in place http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4250.jpg Calipers all cleaned up, Carbotech XP12s, Ti pad shims in place, and Stoptech lines in. http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4251.jpg |
Cool, ready to see her Run!!
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Finished the front brake duct install and got the front bumper installed this morning. Had to go to a going away part for a friend of the GF so couldnt get it done 100%
Measured and cut a slot out of the Z06 bumper screen for the front tow hook. http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4253.jpg Installed http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4260.jpg Stock brake duct. In OEM form it just blows air aimlessly into the wheel well. http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4254.jpg Trimmed to mate w/ the DRM extension allready in place. http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4255.jpg Slipped in place http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4256.jpg Secured w/ 2 set screws then covered w/ gorilla tape, then I covered the area around the DRM extension that I had to cut out to get the duct through. http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4258.jpg http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4259.jpg |
Took the car out for about 30 min tonight to get it good and hot and heat cycle the springs. Got the oil temp to 200, but it quickly dropped back in the 180s cruising so the oil cooler really works. One of my heim-joint endlinks (the RF) is really clanky, not sure if that means it's wearing out, but I knew they would click/clack some. I can grab the RF by hand and jiggle the center section back and forth and make it clank. The other 3 are movable, but much stiffer. Is this something I can address?
Problem I'm now facing is ride height... I have the car lowered to the max w/ the stock adjusters and it's still riding really high. Guess that's what happens when you take so much weight out of the car. Might have to dig into it and modify the spring adjusters to get it lower. Anyone run into this when gutting a C5? Didn't notice anything negative from the Pfadt poly motor mounts. Some have complained about excessive vibration. 4x4 status w/ my junk shake-down street wheel/tire setup http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4262.jpg Hood back on http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4261.jpg |
Nice!
I bet if you bought the hardbar height adj. you could shave down the delrin to the height you need and get it as low as it can go! My .02 cents Looks good, nice thread, Good luck! Mario |
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Looking great BTW ! :cheers: Toque |
Congrats on getting to the point you can road test her Brian :cheers:
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congrats brian im sure your happy to have it drivable now, awesome build by the way. Finally seeing one of your build threads and how detailed they are shows me how much time and work went into my car. Keep up the good work!
:cheers: |
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Picked the car up from RaceWerks this evening. Results are as follows: Weight - 2840 (1/2 tank of gas), so about 250lbs lighter than a stock car w/ a 1/2 tank. Alignment results: LF - 2.54 RF - 2.27 LR - 0.93 RR - 1.67 Cross-weight 50.3% Going to get a different camber block to get the LR closer to 1.50 neg camber. Redid my swaybars tonight because I realized I installed them with the suspension unweighted. Katech manual belt tensioner installed... http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4263.jpg |
Custom fit Ultrashield, I/O port seat back brace, and Sparco 6-pts installed along w/ some finishing touches...
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4269.jpg http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4270.jpg http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4271.jpg http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4272.jpg http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4273.jpg |
Thanks to Racin' Jason for the phalic Hardbar shift knob... looks a bit "odd", but it's really nice to have to so close tot he steering wheel. It's my favorite in a track car. Also got the Traqmate installed.
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4276.jpg Started stickering-up the car too http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4277.jpg |
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Toque |
Hey when there's contingency money on the line you sort of have to have their stickers on the car :)
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I'm thinking more along the lines of.....
http://i12.ebayimg.com/07/i/000/ag/a7/2a18_1.JPGhttp://i.ebayimg.com/23/!Bzf)7dQ!2k~...+e1ig~~_12.JPG :lolsmile: |
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Just got the call from Virginia Speed.... 361 rwhp on whatever their idea of a "very conservative road racing tune" is. Dropped her off this AM as it ws the only appointment they had open for the past 1.5 weeks before this weekend's event.
Good thing I didn't put that CAI on the car.... I can't make more than 370 rwhp baed on mhy calculations : 3118/370 = 8.43. Not bad for a darned near stock 2001 w/ almost 120k on her. |
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Your less then 3118lbs though right ? I thought you said 2800lbs ish... Toque |
See you there...
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Weight - 2840 (1/2 tank of gas), so about 250lbs lighter than a stock car w/ a 1/2 tank.Cross-weight 50.3%
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Ed did my 'o1 with a street tune....351/351
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Have fun Brian and kick some azz. Oh and don't forget to go "flat out" :D
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Guys minimum competition weight is the car's weight just as it comes off track.... so the car + whatever fuel is left, plus you in the car. When you come off track you can't weight less than 3118lbs. So 2840 w/ about 1/2 tank plus me w/ my stuff on = 240 = 3080 which means I need to run a full tank to make weight. Figure 8 gallons of fuel to top it off @ 6.6 lbs per gallon = 46.2 lbs = 3126.2. So I'll probably need to add some ballast back to give myself a margin of error. The car really needs to be 3120 w/ 1/2 tank of gas.
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Looks Good; have fun and be safe. Is the plate for show or is it still street legal?
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4278.jpg |
Skipped last session...made it mostly home and LOST FRONT BRAKING... Pads were "toast". Good thing I didn't try to stay ! Remember i said I lost it on the last lap before the Roller Coaster as the brakes were funny and I was too hot getting in ? Damn Close
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Let me know what Ryan's resolution for the "no start " ending up being...realy curious !
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Glad you made it ok Gene... I figured you'd probably cooked your pads. Very good to meet you. Will let you know what's up w/ Ryan's car.... we're all very stumped/curious.
I'll have some videos/pics up this week.... tired.... going to bed now. Had a conversion van flip in front of my on I64.... alomst took me/trailer/car out.... will post up about that fun tomorrow. |
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looks like a real race car... cant wait to see pics and vids of it on the track
:cheers: |
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Is that so they can gps you on the track or what?
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Doing a few winter projects....
Pfadt Polys done up front http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4673.jpg Powergrind endlinks installed http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4674.jpg Headlight and turn signal delete in process http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSCF4675.jpg |
:cool:
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