Engine cranks but will not start!
 

Got fuel this morning, drove to work fine. Went to grocery store on the way home. Parked it in the garage. Went to start it up about 4 hrs later and it cranks continuous but will not start. The starter keep cranking and I have to push the button to stop the cranking. It's like its not firing because no spark or fuel.

Checked the battery. Charger shows its not fully charged 70%

So I thought I might have to replace the battery which I just changed Aug of 2011 so it's still under warranty. going to take it to Auto Zone in the am and have them check and see if it shows good or bad.

It still has plenty of juice to crank the engine and power lights.

We tried listing to see if we could hear the the fuel pump running. Can't tell

I just went over 100,000 miles and know I need to replace the spark plugs.
But if they were bad would the eng not be misfiring? at 100,500 miles

I'm thinking if its not the battery its fuel or and electrical problem.

Thoughts and questions

Oh and it's and automatic 2006 coupe




Squirrel is not running, it's sick! :squirrelrun:

Checked for codes, none are popping.

Disconnected the battery to reset the computer. Good mechanic in CA we know said it might be the Theft system. He does a lot of Vette work.

Did not work, still will not start!

If it's cranking fine, it's not the battery. As you suspect, almost certainly lack of fuel or spark. Not the plugs either.


First check all fuses underhood, especially those for fuel pump and injectors.

The next easiest thing to check for is fuel. You'll have to pop the left side plastic rail cover to check for this...At the front end of the left rail, you'll see a plastic cap covering a shrader valve. (same type valve as on tires). Remove the plastic cap, but don't depress the valve just yet.
Get a rag or bunch of paper towels and a tiny screwdriver (or similar to depress the valve core) ready.
Now attempt to start the engine as normal...Let it crank for a while. As soon as you stop cranking, get out and holding the rags in front of/under the rail, briefly depress the valve core.
-If you get a strong stream of fuel shoot out, you're getting fuel to the injectors, and it's something electrical.
-If you get a drip, dribble, or nothing out of the rail, you aren't getting fuel.


If no fuel, and pump fuse is good, you may want to read this thread about the fuel pump relay...This seems to be not that uncommon of a problem...
2005 C6 cranks but won't start - no fuel - Corvette Forum

If you are getting fuel pressure and all fuses are good, I'll have to think some more as to where to start looking next, but I'm suspecting no fuel if you're not seeing any codes.I believe anti-theft intervention should prevent cranking, and/or throw a related code.

Thanks Tom, talked to JoeBuck a little bit ago too.

Going to check the fuses in the am first thing. Then I will look at the fuel.

Will let you know what I find.

Actually my neighbor Becky is coming over and we are going to check right now to try swapping out fuses to see if I have a bad one.

:squirrelrun:

Checked the fuses and Relays. No visual signs of being bad. Swapped the fuel pump and injector fuses with good ones and fuel pump relay with the horn relay. No joy.

We verified the Engine is not getting fuel by the procedure Tom posted above. Can not hear the pump running on my car like we can on the neighbors Vette. So either the fuel pump is gone out or line clogged or wiring to the fuse box or fuel pump.

Thanks Y2K-Tom and Joey for your help so far! :seasix: :hurray:

Similar happened with my Chevy truck yrs. ago. It was the coil/coil pack.

keep us posted, very sorry indeed

https://www.thevettebarn.com/forums/o...tml#post984047

^ current status and more info

Fuel pump assembly replaced. They also found the connector behind the battery going to the fuel pump burn out too! :eek:

When the pump went it was pulling such a current it toasted the connector located behind the battery!


All replaced and running fine now! :squirrelrun:

Good to hear :hurray:


I can't help but wonder though...Did they install the new pump, found it still didn't work, which led them to find the fried connector?

(meaning the possibility exists the pump wasn't actually bad).