Bellhousing, Clutch and Pressure Plate Install Question
 

Allright, I need your Expertise...

Plan of action this weekend is to get my drivetrain assembled. While I am not making any radical changes over a stock setup, I want to make sure I am doing this correctly. My main questions are concerning proper fork geometry, because I don't want to do this twice.

List of Parts:

New Flywheel (GM Made in Mexico, for one piece rear main)

New Clutch Kit (McCleod Super Street - Disk, Pressure Plate, Throwout)

New Clutch Fork (GM for Corvette Applications, old one was thrashed)

New Bellhousing Pivot Ball (NOS GM 1.5 inches fixed, old one was roached)

Using my old 621 Bell, had to get a crack welded, otherwise fine.

Trans is my Muncie 4 speed, rebuilt by Box and Gear Corp of Van Nuys, CA

I verified the distance between the Bellhousing (where it mates to the block) and flat part of the pivot ball as 4.75 inches.

What do I need to be watching for with the fork? I'm concerned that I may need an adjustable pivot, but considering this is a relatively stock setup, I think I should be okay? Any tips or advice you gents or ladies can offer?

:waiting:

Another thing...

After talking with a few individuals and researching things, I don't think I am going to dial indicate the bellhousing, considering it's basically a stocker type setup...

You need a clutch lineup shaft or you can make one with a proper sized broom stick handle, when you install the clutch to make sure it's centered so the trans will slide right in.
I trust you replaced the bushing in the crankshaft as part of your overhaul. Either the sintered bronze original style (I prefer it) or the new roller bearing style. This is a MUST.
The clutch fork should be pressing on the top and bottom of the throwout brg to be in the right spot.
LIGHTLY wipe a SMALL bit of grease on the trans shaft where the throw out brg rides. Also on the ball. Grease the shaft ends, and if there's a grease nipple on the shaft, pump some grease into it.
Don't forget the rubber boot that goes over the fork and covers the opening protecting it from dust.
You MAY need an adjustable push rod if the stock one doesn't work length wise.
Make sure you put the TH.BRG, in with the big side against the clutch. Sounds stupid but I've seen them put in backwards before on assembly. :crazy:

Have the line up tool? I'm 99.9% sure I have a chevy tool here. $5.25 to ship it out ( small flat rate priority mail), return it when you're done :yesnod:

What is this going in?

'73 corvette with fresh engine and rebuilt trans :seasix:

A dumb comment, but they internally balanced your new engine correct? Some older engines were balanced via the flywheel, if i'm not mistaken.

Also, have you considered getting your flywheel and pressure plate balanced? I've done that with my last two clutches just to be safe.

It was the 454 that was external balance. It required correct flywheel.

I discovered my 71 had this problem after I bought it. Ran OK up to about 3500 rpm and then started serious shake. New flywheel and about 4 hours on my back under car and all was good. Well, there was the rear tire problem where they started wearing out very quickly for some reason. :hide:

Thanks for the replies guys. :cert:

Alignment tool came with the clutch kit, so I am good there.


I haven't considered getting the Flywheel and Pressure Plate balanced, builder didn't mention anything about it?

That really depends on what you plan to use the car for and how tight you want to wind it up. BUT, the proper way is to balance the flywheel with the whole reciprocating assembly, crank and front balancer together in the block.
So unless you plan on racing the car I wouldn't bother with it because it won't be EXACT anyway.

I figured the alignment tool came with it. Hell, in the old days, you had to essentially find someone with the correct input shaft to get it to align. Don't forget to change out your pilot bushing in the crankshaft. I've seen people not change it, or forget the damn thing, and either way, it will lead to problems. The clutch fork pivot ball is fixed and in the stock bellhousing needs to be tightened down. Use Loctite of course. I am assuming you had the original flywheel resurfaced. That, you absolutely need to do on a clutch change. It's all pretty easy.:seasix:

For me it was just a matter of better safe than sorry.

Your motor was balanced without the flywheel and clutch, so as long as you have a balanced flywheel and pressure plate you're good to go. Your engine shop should do it pretty cheap, hopefully they won't need to adjust much if anything.

The 400 small block is externally balanced also ( which means the 383 is too )

I'm gonna have a local machine shop balance the Pressure Plate and Flywheel. Thanks to Ron over at the other place (Cuisinartvette), he arranged to have his person do it for me for 50 bucks. Cheap insurance.

This thread belongs in the C3 section.

:waiting:

Perhaps if those sections got any significant activity, I would have posted it there.

There happens to be knowledgable people that DO post in the off topic section, hence why I posted this question here in OT.

Lastly, I have a damned car to put together, I'm simply asking for advice.


over and OUT! :kimblair:

I think you made his point.