NCC-1701A Enterprise Refit
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Well, due to an unfortunate Klingon misplaced soccer ball, the three foot long, fully lit Enterprise model I built more than ten years ago is roached. The upper hull saucer broke off and the wiring was just too short to fix. A couple weeks ago after I cut the wires to separate the disk, I could see that there was no way to repair it.
Oh well, 100+ hours down the drain. So, I’m starting this build thread of a new 1/350 scale model. This time with far more sophisticated electronics and a new base that is waaaay more stable than the pile of crap on the original model. There is a lot of modifying needed to make this work and I’ve started removing plastic that gets in the way of the lighting and modifying other areas to improve fit. One of the first steps is light blocking with several coats of flat black, then a coat of flat white primer to make the insides reflect the light. Some pics. |
COOL! Can't wait to see the end results! :D
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I’m not scratch building the electronics this time. I built my own circuit boards before. Screw that. Now there are full lighting kits on the market for this model that should save some time. Also, the LEDs are smaller and brighter. I’ll be using very fine magnet wire (33 gauge) to save some room. The previous model was stuffed to the brim with wiring and it stressed the seams.
This one will be far more precise and clean on the inside (that nobody will see) and will help if it ever needs repair since it will be more organized. There are about six different circuits for various navigation lights, strobes, photon torpedoes, a color shifting deflector dish, etc. I’ll find a video and post it. Very neat if you are a huge dork like me. |
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Turn your audio off (why does everyone play that damn music with videos of this model?)
The electronics system has different modes. 5is is the dry dock startup sequence from the movie when they first fire up the new ship. The hardest part is the painting of the complex five color pearl panels all over the model. The masking alone takes about 40 hours. It is sprayed over a semigloss white and looks amazing. But maddening. |
I have the most logical boner.
I love this. I started one of these years ago, but just barely got into it before life got in the way. Can't wait to see the progress! |
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I need to figure out a base. The one that comes with it is crap. I was thinking of an oval shaped, black walnut base tapered like a river rock - sort of sleek oval blob. I’d then hollow out the bottom for the main controller board. But I don’t really have any wood working tools. Not sure. Another option is basically a shallow box with a laser etched, plexi top. I’d spray the back side black then have the etching done and put a bunch of LEDs inside so the laser etching lights up. I’ve seen some bases like that. But I ain’t paying $350 for one. |
How big a base is needed?
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Nothing is irreparable. 3D printers can be your friend.
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I’m using a plastic welding liquid glue this time. And then 3M structural adhesive on high load areas. That design was never meant to be under the force of gravity. Big stress point where the dish meets the neck. I’ll be using several types of glue this time. It ain’t never coming apart. It’s very hard to handle. Painting it stresses the joints. It’s a very difficult model. |
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Tablesaw, two drill presses with mortising attachments, planer, bandsaw, router and router table, jointer, lathe (small :( ), about 120 clamps, various hand tools. Got a picture of what you have in mind? |
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Let me give it some thought and do some engineering tests and make a drawing. It might need some lead in the bottom for weight. The support for the model is a single metal tube so that is easy. |
Maybe a base shaped like the shadow it casts.
Put a light directly over it, trace around it. BOOM, there's your template. |
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What if the base was shaped like the comm badge or is that too obvious?
https://www.geekcore.co.uk/pub/media...comm-badge.jpg |
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